The "combination meter" is the gauge/instrument cluster. It sounds like you might have some more damaged wires or bad relays and/or fuses to track down.

I've always run Permatex "Right Stuff". Never leaked a drop, and I swear you could probably run the pan without bolts it holds it so well.

Still kicking around here and there. Been doing more with SRT4's as of late.

Sounds like a massive boost leak. If the car is on the stock MAF and there is unmetered air coming in somewhere it could do what you’re describing.EDIT: Is this the same car as your profile picture? If so, then it looks to be a 420a turbo car.

I might be able to help, but I need more pictures.

I second this! This is where I buy all of my couplers and clamps as well - the value can't be beat.

On every DSM I ever had, I always purchased the -10 AN bung for whatever turbo I was running and then welded a -10 AN bung into the pan. For line, I would use normal -10 AN fittings (like a 45 degree and a straight) that were not the push-lock type. I never had any leaks going that route. Ever.

You would be looking at purchasing a $7500-$8000 transmission once you're done. You could find one used, but they only pop up once in a while. My suggestion is just run a stock/refreshed transmission. Make sure you're running a good clutch (I preferred the Quartermaster Twins), and MAKE SURE...

Bump - Make some offers!

Radiator sold. Make some offers on the rest.

What are you looking to do with the car? That should dictate whether or not it is worth it (to you). I've always drag raced my cars, so an LSD rear is desirable to me. It's not that bad of a job, as long as you don't mind dropping the entire rear sub-frame. Doing it this way lets you get to...

That thing will TUR'BONE your goals. I'd pass on it like everyone else is saying. What kind of power are you looking at making? There are many more cost-effective options out there.

The only thing you need off of the OEM pump connector is the fuel pump trigger wire to drive the switching terminals (either 85 or 86). From there, red wire from the fuel sender gets power from the battery (or alternator post if you choose to feed from there - recommended). The grounds run to...

Can you draw a diagram of exactly how you have everything wired?

It could be one of a few things: 1. Improper return line size (too small). 2. Defective regulator. How does the diaphragm look? 3. If this is a 2G AWD, have you drilled out the siphon orifice? https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-awd-fuel-siphon-mod.350851/If you're using a stock AWD sending...

I swapped the Prothane inserts out of the manual mounts and in to the auto mounts.

I used my 5 speed poly mounts for my auto transmission and they worked just fine.

I always welded a -10an fitting to the oil pan. It's hard to leak when there aren't any gaskets. Otherwise, use the correct gasket and new stock bolts with the o-ringed washers they come with.

I believe its going to be a NPT-style thread (tapered). So, if you need to source boost from it then use a barbed nipple fitting with a NPT thread on the opposite side...or if you don't need it, then just use a NPT plug. It should either be 1/8" or 1/4" NPT. Or, just drill it and tap it for...

No problem. I was assuming that you were using pins 8 and 16 for IAT and MAP, respectively. If you're using the DSM Link plug-and-play speed density harness, it uses those pin locations. That would leave the aforementioned pins free (sans which ever one you use for logging your wideband).

If I recall correctly, you could use: Pin 53 - EGR Control Solenoid Valve Pin 57 - Fuel Pressure Control Valve Pin 105 - Wastegate Solenoid ValveI would use Pin 53, as the EGR is pointless.

I still have a few little things kicking around here and there:- Flex-a-Lite Shrouded Fan ($110 shipped) Brand new, Flex-a-Lite part #123 (410-123 on Jegs).- Redjack Racing 3" O2 Eliminator Downpipe ($300 shipped) Full 3" downpipe, replaces O2 housing and downpipe (all one piece). O2...

If you wanted to go external off of that manifold: You would need to weld the stock wastegate orifice shut in the turbine housing. That manifold is setup to run a TiAL F38 wastegate. You would need the wastegate, some metal gaskets, and a dump tube.Also, put a pipe plug in the hole that was...

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.htmlGo to the 'Engine Section' and 1g AWD engine removal is right there. Pics and all.

Looks like the boost nipple that was originally cast into the housing was removed. I would remove the housing, then drill out and thread the hole to 1/8" NPT. Then, put a 1/8" NPT plug in there with a little Teflon paste on it. It definitely will not leak then.

Or, pull the wire on Pin 5 of C68. That should do it.

Hahaha, yeah tape always works. I'm sure you could just pull the bulb, too!

This was from a '93.

If you could find C45, C68, or C73 - you could de-pin the appropriate wire out of there and be done. But since you're mixing harnesses with a '90, it totally could be getting grounded somewhere funky.

Somehow, one of these paths has power. Note that the ABS light on the combination meter (gauge cluster) gets power from the junction box (J/B) and is grounded via the ABS control unit at pin 25, or goes on to the other page and can be grounded at pin 22.

Looking good!

The best thing I've seen all day!

Just goes to show you that it works! I’m interested to see how much weight I put back on since switching to auto.

Here's a start to what I did:-Carbon doors -Carbon hood -Carbon hatch -Removed sunroof assembly, epoxied carbon roof glass in place -No ABS, PS, Cruise -One Kirkey seat, no pad -5 gallon aluminum fuel cell -Chromoly rear subframe -Removed every unnecessary nut/bolt -Bumper exhaust -Remove...

I got my 2G down to 2425 lbs still using all of the factory glass.

You can talk to Cory or Emery at STM...I know they had a small run of molded polycarb window sets done for 2G DSMs. Cory may still have a set...

What are your goals? How much power are you planning to make? What fuel are you planning on running (pump gas, or E85)? If you're going to run a Walbro 255, then you won't need more than a -6 feed line. The stock return should suffice for a while, too. The AFPR is a must, and you won't need...

Last time I weighed my car as a 5-speed, it was 2425 without me in it.- Stock glass and stock brakes - Full 10-point cage (mild steel) - Parachute - 5 gal fuel cell - Bumper exhaust - Removed all wipers/motors - No AC - De-powered rack - No interior or sound deadening - Removed ALL unused...

I made 702 whp and 574 wtq on STM's Mustang dyno with somewhere around 40 psi of boost on E85.

#oopsWrongHole ROFL

I use a throttlebodys.com 1G N/T. I made a crapload of power on it, and it still works like stock. I've seen folks have nothing but issues with Q45's.

Well, I'm looking to finally work on the car some more this weekend. I'm about 50% done with the scratch wiring harness I've been building. Once that is done, I'll be working on the interior wiring. I'll hope to have some pictures of the car this weekend (in all of it's dusty glory....maybe).

Hmm, you learn something every day!

If you're asking this question, you're not ready yet. Also, I hope your wallet is deep.

I always used a razor blade, scotchbrite pad, and some brake cleaner to clean composite gasket remains. Takes some scrubbing, but works well.

Got any pictures?

There are two harnesses under the dash: The front harness, and the cluster harness. You likely won't touch the cluster harness. The front harness U's out the driver's side, around the front of the car, and in through the passenger's side. That harness is a monster. I could see making sure...

I also use a manual kit in my auto. The engine/trans mounts and the front/rear roll stop inserts fit. I converted my AWD car from 5spd to auto last year.

Cam angle sensors are different, you'd have to use an adapter harness to use a 97+ CAS on a 95-96 car.

I used my original, since it was in good shape. The new gaskets are somewhat difficult to work with; plus they are difficult to find.