Mating a 4G63 head to a 4G64 block with forged internals will give you a compression ratio of about 9.7 as apposed to the usual 8.5-9 with the 2.0 setup. This on top of the increased stroke not only creates more power at a lower rpm but gives you TONS of extra torque.I have this setup with...

You have 2 coil packs, so neither give off spark? From a quick search, I found that you should be able to use the ecu to try and start the car, but I wouldn't try to run the car with it since it wouldn't be programmed to read boost and would have different maps. It could also be a faulty power...

Providing more info would be really helpful. Like a little history of the problem/engine. Did you check for spark and fuel? If you have both then check timing marks and compression if you have access to a tester.

I feel you since I recently had been combating high engine temps too. After my motor swap I started seeing my temps get to 230 if I sat idling in the sun for a while and I couldnt have that. So here's some of things I did to help the problem:Make sure the slim fans are wired together and...

Just an update. I went with the 4ga wire with a 2 60a fuses in parallel in the trunk and a 200a fuse in the engine bay. Sanded all contacts and grounds to get any corrosion/paint off and everything works. Voltage is the exact same in the engine bay as at the battery terminals. So I conclude that...

Rush has very useful information. No need to flame on someone trying to help that isn't giving misinformation. Despite I already know the basics of how the CAS works, details are more than welcome regardless where it came from. I recently picked up on this 1g CAS working as a cam angle and crank...

Yes, definitely do the BSE if you are doing a rebuild anyway. I'm a victim of the balancer belt breaking and it caused my timing belt to skip which led to a huge mess... a valve snapped off and punched holes in a piston even.Not only do you not have to worry about this anymore, but with one...

ROFL I've been over ohm's law, kirchoffs law, resistance, capacitance, inductance and all the differential equations in between. You're totally missing what I was trying to ask. There is no OEM fuse for a battery relocation LOL which is why I'm asking what I should go with.The reason I'm...

Likewise, I was referring to TrevorS. Sorry though, just so I'm not completely jacking the thread... possibly adding a small capacitor to the engine bay will give whatever accessory needing quick current, the boost it needs to work, while keeping weight low. When I stripped my other Eclipse that...

The XTD stage 3 I had worked well for the 30k miles I put on it over a year and a half granted I probably didnt have any more than 250fwhp. When I examined it, it probably only had another year left on it before it was toast. Lots of chatter, but I got used to it and if you slip it just right...

I realize this. I was just trying to get some info from this thread without creating another one. Although I might be running into the same problem because I'm using the same gauge wire. My concern at the moment is what fuse rating would be best so that I don't blow it, say when I am trying to...

What rush said :hellyeah: If it were me I'd do as 2gawdtsi said and take the intake pipe off and check for shaftplay on the turbo but dont force it or you'll create it. Then do a compression test to see where the health of the motor lies as a whole. If both of those look good and it looks like...

If you have a stock shifter, shift cable bushings, and motor mounts since I dont see them in the list, then it's no wonder you feel like your losing everything between shifts. A short throw will make for quicker shifts, solid bushing will give better shift response, and better mounts will help...

lol, I hear ya. I was upside down like that for a while ripping out the sound-deadening material from the firewall a few weeks ago.More power to you with the project. If you think you can do it then do iiiiiit I say. I'm the same way. I've always wanted an AWD spyder. Luckily I found one for...

I'm curious as to what amperage fuse you used. After doing my motor swap I realized I can no longer put the battery in the stock location. Since the trunk seemed much better than fabricating something where the evap emissions used to be, I put it next to my system in the trunk. I already have 4...

possibly a vaccuum leak? can you get a video of it, it'd help figure out what's exactly's going on

I'm in the same boat. A relative of mine decided to put an impact gun to the bolts after I just finished my awd swap in hopes it wouldn't come loose on me while driving and snapped one bolt off and stripped another. Looked back in the FSM and torque specs are only 28ft/lbs so I was like good...

Wheel hop comes from the engine and tranny tilting back and forth on the roll stop mounts. So the prothane "inserts" for the front and rear roll stops are just that, inserts that fit into the stock rubber instead of a complete solid poly mount. So they help but only so much. Check your mounts to...

You just bought them or you have them already?

+1 as well for the aluminum mounts. I've been interested in trying to make some recently to get rid of the chatter of 6 puck ceramic clutch. More solid mounts might be all you need to get rid of the torque spikes from the wheel hop causing you to break axles, but it's probably a good idea to get...

Man just trust me. I've been through enough engines. I overheated the first one when I was still a noob. Had it rebuit then spun a rod bearing. Rebuilt it again with forged internals and had new balancer belt, tensioner, timing belt and pulleys. 30k miles later the balancer belt randomly broke...

I hear ya man. I also highly recommend while its down and apart that you have the balance shafts eliminated. It'll make one less way your motor can kill itself. :thumb:

That'd be what I would recommend for now since it seems like your only making half of a stock motors potential anyway. I'd start trying to fill it's potential by following the upgrade path as aposed to just increasing it. That's what I did and it turned out to be a complete loss. :coy: I saw in...

I'd think in order to grind off all the weld so the wastegate can open again it might not be able to seal like it once did and end up leaking. Although that is better than overboosting. I'd go ahead and just go with a manifold with an external gate since the internal gate is already welded...

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Finally finished my awd swap :DWithout a working wastegate to allow exhaust to bypass the turbine wheel, yes boost would increase until something blows at WOT. Unless you're going to be watching your boost at all times and control it from going to...

Yes it is a valid point. That way if there are boost leaks you'll know from the decrease in desired manifold pressure. I never thought about that. So as long as there are no boost leaks either way is still fine. I was trying to think theoretically to be fair to both sides. My setup in progress...

1. It's also there to control it from overboosting and blowing the motor up as well. The turbo might not necessary go first.2. With it hooked farther away from the turbo, the pressure downstream will be slightly less than directly post-turbo, so just decrease the load accordingly on the mbc...

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I'm not sure how much the 280s affect the compression measurements :coy: but yes I do have wiseco's. I went to their site and it shows my particular setup has a CR of 9.7:1As for 1g and 2g heads, intake cam has the same duration but the exhuast cam...

I don't understand all the fuss about how the mbc is hooked up. I had it teed from the manifold to ebay type-s hose on one car and it worked fine. I had it hooked up from a nipple on the ICP on the compressor exit and it worked fine on my other car. So what's it matter if they both work...

Welcome to the never-ending journey of working on your dsm! ROFLAny auto trans from a FWD 95-99 turbo dsm will work (F4A33). An auto trans from a 2.4 should work as well (FA423). The auto trans out of a non turbo 420A will not work (F4AC1). Nor will an auto trans from an AWD dsm work...

The part number would be great since I can't seem to find that specific part on their site. Trying to ask them about it through their messaging system is slow and painful too.The rotors are solid which I'm glad so I can reuse my drilled/slotted rotors. I suppose next time I go to the shop...

I'm also looking to replace a damaged backing plate on an 95 awd rearend that I'm about to bolt up to my spyder. The dealer here said it'd be a ridiculous $80 for one side so I went to mitsubishiparts.com and for "backing plate" it only shows for 96-99 rear drum and under "awd parking brake" it...

External gate on the o2 would give you madddd boost creep ROFL I'd only recommend that if you enjoy frying turbos or detonating engines.As for the bearings, they switch to the new 3piece thrust bearing and washers in late 97 so you would have to get those for your mains. It's still debated...

From the looks of it, the pipe that suppose to go to the compressor looks way too high. The pipe leaving the ic looks like it will have to go through the frame to get to get back into the engine bay. So looks like your universal piping will give you a lil headache. The ic itself looks nice...

Are you using quality clamps? Cheap clamps tend to strip easy and don't hold well. If this is the case pick up some t-bolt clamps. Otherwise maybe the hose is just old and cracking and needs replacing.

mostly 12mm, some 10s here and there and 14s. The engine mounts are 17s and i think 14s for the bolts going through the roll stopper mounts.

ha snow beat me to it. i was gonna say you should be able to bypass the BCS by just connecting a hose from the pressure nipple from the turbo directly to the nipple on the wastegate actuator. I think this will only have a very minimal affect on boost if any.

That was actually my first MBC but kept spikin over 20psi so I bought my Joe P... later I fiddled with it and I realized the T was blocked off on the inside so no wonder I was gettin no boost control. Hooked it up without that T and it worked fine. It might last might not. It's yours to find out...

All I can tell you is the I have a 4G64 block w/ a 4G63 head and last time I did a compressin test I was getting 200-210psi and I just went back and looked at the stock specs of a 4G64 engine and standard compression is 192 with a CR of 9.5:1. I bought the motor like this but apparently this...

I think the springs should function the exact same installed either way. I'd put the tight side on top so they are less visible for the look.

I'm not sure exactly what your wanting to know without the pic. When posting scroll down a bit and theres a button to click to upload photos. There's a hose running off the top of the fuel filter that runs to the fuel rail and bolts in. Not much more to it than that.

They look forged to me but the specs are all wrong: Bore: 81mm (STD) Rod Length: 5.433" Stroke: 3.433" when it should be Bore: 85mm (STD) Rod Length: 5.900" Stroke: 3.46" If they can't get the specs right I wouldn't trust it at all. Just spend an extra $35 like MichaelSuch said and pick up some...

My first thought was also that the WG must be taking longer than usual to close. But it could also be the BOV. I'd boost it to about 13psi in 3rd or 4th and let it blow off and take just as long as you normally do to change gears but stay in the same gear and get back on it and see how fast your...

a rubber cap if you have any, otherwise you could just take a short hose and put a screw/bolt in it and ziptie it

I have the illumina/pro kits combo which lowered me about 1.25" once it all settled and I went ahead and bought the Ingalls camber kit but then read that it's really not necessary unless you drop 1.5" or more. I continuously checked my tires after installing them and its been over a year and the...

Wow. That's no fun. What is there to mod? ...adding more batteries so you can top out at 75mph? ROFL ...and buying a dsm to save money? :confused: That's just crazy.

Hmmm... Well I just got the engine out today. I did browse for some nice motors and saw them going for 3-4.5k that I'd consider comparable. So I was thinking maybe 3k for the engine alone, no fuel or manifolds and such. It blew off my 20g a couple months ago snapping 2 of the turbo-manifold...

Stock for stock the 2.4 makes like 1hp more but has a fair amount of extra torque over the 2.0. In order to boost the 2.4 you need to get pistons that lower the compression to handle the boost and of course stronger rods. I just removed my 4G64 block with stage 3 buschur 4G63 head that I now...

I agree. With the money you save doing it yourself, get yourself some tools. Jacking the driver side of the car with the factory jack should do fine for taking the 3 connections loose and a couple bolts from the alternator and swapping it out. My first investment was a factory shop manual that...

What my2AWDgst said. Ironic to see he has an awd spyder also, but 2??! I got prothanes in both my cars and they are a must to get rid of wheel hop especially if you have some mods to make more power. I think prothanes and energy suspension are basically the same thing but the price in the energy...