Sold.

Sold.

Selling my 90 Talon TSi AWD. 107k miles (150 psi compression across the board). The car runs absolutely beautifully and I drive it a few times a week. AC even works. The car is rust free. Only cons is that the car was re-painted in 2012, and the clear is failing on the top half of the car. Other...

Wastegate and o2 housing sold.

Evo III manifold and o2 sold.

I have a Garrett TO4b V-trim turbo with a nice polished SS exhaust housing $300 -no broken studs or damaged threads -no shaft play/worked great -comes with oil feed from OFH and oil return linesTial wastegate with SS o2 housing with dump pipe made to clear short route IC pipine SOLD...

I had an Evo 9 after many a dsm. The Evo was better in every way, however much more $ to mod/repair compared to a dsm.

A factory maf should work great!

You can also run the cable under the intake manifold for a cleaner look.

You know there is more to mivec than just on/off right? There is a hole mivec map for in in the ecu...

Remove the SAFC and get something to actually tune with, ie dsmilink.

Well most likely the crank "knocked it out". But there is a chance that it just went bad.

Kind of suspect that it needs so many major parts at once. I mean 1 of those parts go out and the car is un-drivable, but three at once? Also crank position sensor...crankwalk?

For starters, if your going to plasti dip a entire car or even anything larger than the wheels. The right way to do it is with a spray gun and not the rattle cans.

Incorrect installation or cheap parts (like some random 0-rings) will cause them to fail prematurely.

The vacuum will be lower at idle with after market cams.

Maybe you just need to adjust your tune. the openloop maps are not a representation of the exact AFR but rather and numerical guide....Especially in colder weather you may need to richen the tune in boost some to compensate for the colder denser air...doesn't necessarily mean you are running out...

You didn't put it on thick enough.

Havent been on the forums in a while, sold my DSM's, joined the USAF and bought a 09 cobalt ss/tc....wont be buying a dsm again...

There is no way a dealership is going to cover a 20 year old car for paint....if so every 20 year old car wouldn't look like $hit.

Join the military son!

Just sold my 1g talon....Leaving for air force BMT in april, I think I may be out of the dsm game for good...

Stick a quarter stick of dynamite in the intake side of it.

Doesnt really matter, they both look bad.

Its fine.

You dont buy anything, you paint the factory piece.

I would upgrade your maf to get rid of the POS 1g maf.

I am pretty sure nobody here except norcal drifter realizes you can just change the bulbs on 1ga's, as they are sealed headlights...

You can with a 1g CAS.

Yes, as long as its a 4g63.

I have heard it can make you timing belt/BS belt jump...But I have done it many times and never had any problems.

I would put one onto the alternator as well.

You should really do some reading up on how to read oil viscosity works...in 10w-30, it does not mean its a 10 weight, its means it protects as well as a 10 weight at 32 degrees but when hot protects as well as a 30 weight. and a 5W-40 is actually thicker than a 10w-30. Its also not all about...

I have been using the T6 for a while now to...Seems to keep the Subaru motors from spinning bearings as much to. If it could handle the torque of a diesel it is good for my dsm. It also seemed to slow down the oil consumption and is good to use in the winter AND summer.

You should be putting a recirc tube on any mitsu maf.

All I know is the Army isn't that well looked upon either...but its the easiest to get in and will take alot more guy/gals that other branch's rejected for whatever reason.

+1 I HATE auto seat belts!

I got a e36 328is with over 215k miles...Pulled the valve cover to change the gasket and the head looked brand new, not even any varnish! The car rides good with no problems, its just gonna need a clutch and some brakes soon.They seem like good cars to me, but for the price that they are new...

I fix it.

I must be the odd one here, I always go to a junkyard and get the fender liner if I buy a DSM and its missing, I just dont understand why people "forget" to put them back in. I think it makes the car look bad without them, plus there is a function for them.

I should have been more clear, I was comparing a 2g FWD. I should know I also swapped two 2g FWD's auto to manual.I was on topic, I even went through the most "difficult" parts of the swap. I believe you were the one that went off topic. I also corrected a few spelling mistakes of yours:aha:.

Stock for stock the manual is faster, unless driver does not know how to drive. If this is a street car, which I would assume this is, then I would rather have a manual. The swap is NOT HARD TO DO, as its only a few extra hours of work on top of a regular trans drop and re-install job...

This guy must be right, his modded AWD runs mid 15's!

It was real knock caused by carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.

I bought a duralast knock sensor, the one that is $40. It looked exactly the same, and even had a mitsubishi sticker on it. I was also having knock problems, and thought it may have been PK and I even bought a OEM mitsu knock sensor from extremepsi. Guess what, it was exactly the same as the...

autozone knock sensor=mitsubishi knock sensor

10 days is no different then it sitting 1 night... now 10 months maybe the battery will need to be charged, and 10 years, thats when I'd be worried.

I prefer the 3g/evo maf, it even fits right into the stock intake pipe. I like the reliability and hassle free-ness of a mitsu maf myself.

Yes it would, especially replacing the little air filter on the side of the valve cover and putting a vac line back to the intake...

You can try running your PCV like stock, and getting rid of the catch can. Sometimes they are a bit restrictive and will cause those issues.