I'm swapping my aftermarket headlamp assemblies for OEM (edit: 2GB) headlamp assemblies. The socket was previously cut off and replaced. I need to go back to the (edit: 2GB) OEM socket (wiring harness side) Anyone know the part number? ThanksEDIT: Re-opening this thread because I have 2GB...

Looks like the new version is just broken. I managed to find an older working version and uploaded it in case anyone needs a copy. You can find it here: ECMLink 3.36.73 PS: It takes google a few seconds to scan the file so just be patient.

Just installed ECMLink on a new laptop running Windows 11. The app takes 60 seconds to open. When I click any button in the app it spins and spins but is REALLY slow.I already tried running it as "admin" and in Windows 7 compatibility mode.Have anyone run into this before?

Trying to figure out the easiest way to remove the parking brake cables from the car. I found this write up: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/parking-brake-cable-removal-installation-write-up.325346/ but the photos are missing. Does anyone have a link where I can see the process in photos or...

Did you manage to find a source for the double sided tape and primer? I'm having a hard time finding that.

My apologise. I've actually ordered the fasteners already. I need the tape & primer. It doesn't help that I'm in Canada and shipping stuff up here is a PITA. Looking for alternative part numbers for the tape and primer. Tnx

Looks like the part numbers for the double sided tape and primer are no longer available. I reached out to 3M for a suitable replacement. Does anyone know the replacement part numbers by any chance? I tried finding 4mm x 1.5mm double sided tape but received no joy. TY

It seems like these are not available anymore. Is there a replacement part number you can suggest? TY

100% thank you. Where did you get that info? I have a PDF of the DSM repair manual and I could not find it there.

My door panel trim fell off when opening the door and several fasteners broke. I need to replace them. Does anyone know the part number for these? Are these the right ones? https://www.ebay.com/itm/313200684342 The diagram below seems to show 2 different types.It appears they are: MR533775...

Anyone know if the OEM wheels from a 1995 eagle talon will fit? These ones: https://ic.carid.com/perfection-wheel/items/wao-2062b-ps14-fc_6.jpg

I have a basic guide here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/resolved-2g-oil-pan-removal-pita.303422/post-153823976

I did a head rebuild and pulled the evap equipment. Can't get the car to stay running. It turns over, revs to 3000 rpm and immediately dies. Giving it throttle will keep it alive for a few seconds but the RPMs go wild and it dies again. Log attached.

I don't have an adjustable CAS. Can I still adjust it using DSMlink?

If it's off slightly, would that be a big problem that would cause the engine to run like crap? I'm not looking to race this car, I just need it to run.

I seized a valve and had the head rebuilt. I was running like crap before due to a rocker being thrown out (probably cause a valve seized and threw a rocker arm).I've checked the spark plugs, wires, coils pack, CAS and CPS. All check out.I have a 2g CAS under the cam gear. I thought those...

Rebuilt the head. Pulled the evap solenoids. Car wont run. It fires up and dies. I can keep it going with some throttle but the RPMS jump up and down. I also doesn't sound "right" when it's running.

I have 1.4 Ohms which is out of spec. Replace?

I have 1.4 ohms on the primaries. Replace?

Checked the CAS and CPS sensors and harness. They passed. Noid light on the injectors, got a pulse. Not sure where else to look for problems. It will start and run for 1-3 seconds and die. Sounds like a lawn mower. Going to swap the ECU for an OEM unit and put in stock injectors, see if she runs.

Using Gofer's procedure. CAS and CPS harness and sensors passed.Used a noid light, all 4 injector pigtails light up.

As per the procedure post, all tests passed. The only change I made to the procedure was to rotate the crank by hand instead of using the starter. I assume that makes no difference. Perfect voltage across the board.

I'm starting to suspect the CAS or ECU. Can ECMlink log those values or do I have to test it some other way?I started a thread on it here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-cas-test.519611/

I found this info. Still not sure how to test it. Hope this helps someone.

How do I test a 2G CAS (under cam gear style)? I'm sure this has been answered but I can't find the procedure.

I've reset the ECU and cleared all codes so the P302 is gone.I was measuring across the pigtail itself. I didn't have a noid light at the time so this is the only method I could think of to see if it was getting a fire signal. All of the other ones were showing 3.5V (while the car was...

Thank you!

I just got a noid light. Going to use that and post back. (Probably this weekend)

Turned 10 times. Waited 10 minutes. Turned 10 times again. Waited 24 hours. Turned again. Cranked. Checked.Is that the correct position for the crank? or am I off?

Cam gears are in line. Is the crank correct or am I a tooth off? Not sure if the mark goes at the front or end of the notch.

I think I got the timing right. Cam gears line up. Just not a 100% on the crank. Does this look ok at TDC?Would a boost / vac leak cause it to die on start up? I thought that would just cause a high idle. Mine fires up, jumps to 2000-2500 and drop back down to 0 and dies. Sounds like it's...

Head was rebuilt and reinstalled. Same issue. If fact it's worse. Won't even idle and sounds rough. Should I get a noid light? If so, which one fits our pigtail?

Turns out it does not need to be plugged. I filled the car up with fluids and cranked it over. Nothing came out so it looks like it's ok without a plug.

I got my head back from the machine shop and wasn't sure if i neded to plug it. i put the head on the car and noticed the plug. i got the timing cover on already. need to take it apart i guess

Do I need to plug it? Is there oil or coolant behind it?

What goes here?

Thanks for the help. I need to install the head, camshafts, and set timing on it.Would you mind answer one more question for me while I have your attention? When installing the lash adjusters you want to bleed all of the oil OUT of them, then once the camshafts are on you can spin oil pump...

Exactly what I need. Thank you.

Got my head back from the machine shop. He stripped a screw and I need to replace it. Marked with yellow dots.Is this the correct one?https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=25617

Just had the same thing happen to me except the lifter is in 1 piece and just the rocker came loose. I think I bent a valve. Got the head off the car now. It looks like it impacted my cylinder. Slight nick in it. My thread is here...

Update:Checked and double checked everything. Got spark and fuel. Did a compression test. Was Low. Pulled the valve cover. 1 rocker had popped out. That would do it. Pulled the head. Bent a valve.Going to buy a new valve set, valve seals, and MLS HG. Once it's all back together I will post...

Stock 2g CAS under intake cam gear Not sure about the ECU. Can you ID it with these photos -> https://photos.app.goo.gl/pbS8dNW1DyZqBmx92 Not sure what to log that would point at the problem. I can post one if you let me know what would be useful to logPS: I appreciate all the help. This is...

Found something. I hooked up a volt meter to the injector pigtail. Injector pigtail shows about 3.5V (while the car is running). Injector 2 pigtail shows 0V. So injector 2 is not getting a "fire" signal. ECU looks ok though.

Would a bad CAS cause only cylinder 2 to misfire? All others are firing normally. Also, it cuts in and out. At this point it's 99% not firing and occasionally it will fire for a few seconds.Before it got worse, I could turn off the ignition and fire it back up and it would work for a few...

Here are the photos of the ECU.https://photos.app.goo.gl/pbS8dNW1DyZqBmx92

I'm throwing a CEL for P302 if that's what you're asking.

Tested the resistor pack. 15 Ohms on all pin outs.Yellow/Black injector 2 wire to Pin 14 on the harness. 0.6 Ohms. Has connectivity.Green/Black injector 2 wire to Pin 12 on the harness. 6.6 Ohms. Tested Green/Red on injector 3 just to be sure. Also, 6.6 Ohms.I'm going to go ahead and say...

I tried wiggling the harness and pigtail and it didn't seem to kick on. However, I did unplug / plug it back in with the engine running. It kicked on once or twice and then it stopped completely.At this point, nothing I do get's it to kick back on again.The problem did not follow the...

Getting a P302 code. Injector 2 stops firing sometimes. At a red light it just stops. Sometimes, if I turn off the car and crank it back up, it will work until I hit a red light then stop firing again.Troubleshooting: 1. Swapped 1/2 plugs, wires, injectors. No change. 2. Bench tested injector...

Disconnect it at the intake manifold and test the line, check valve, and diaphragm all at once?