You can go to the dealer and get the whole rocker panels, rear quater panels or whatever is bad. It's not always the cheapest but it's worth it if you want it to be right and not continue rotting.

Does dsmlink use the a/c override to turn the fans on? Because I had this problem on my 1g when I first got it and my fans were not turning on unless I turned the a/c on which runs both fans continuously, and it turned out that my colling fan relay was shot and the a/c overrides that and your...

Are your fans turning on at all, b/c if they're not then that will cause the coolant to eventually get too hot and create too much pressure and blow the endtanks on the radiator.

Welcome to the forums Brad. Yes, a vented BOV will cause your car to stall out at stoplights. It needs to be re-circulated back to the intake. Some times a bad ISC(idle control motor) will do that too or a big boost leak, but most likely it's your BOV. As far as the map sensor goes they are...

Just because the boot is not ripped or torn doesn't mean your cv joints aren't damaged.

How far is it off? It's probably just not in the trans all the way. Also a peice of wood will absorb the impact and won't really do much but dent the wood and eventually break. Try using a flat piece of metal so you don't damage the splines on the shaft, and a bigger hammer always helps. I...

Wow, your replying to a 4 year old post.

You need to connect the air flow wire back to stock. Or you can just plug the afc back in to the harness and leave it zeroed out.

Yes you have to disconnect the wires for the afc, because the airflow wire is cut and ran to the afc then back to the ecu. With the wires connected and no afc plugged in your airflow signal will not reach the ecu, so you can either plug it back in and leave it zeroed out or completly remove it...

+1And not for nothing, if this mechanic thinks the intake is supposed to be on the engine on a turbo car and not on the turbo where it should be he obviously doesn't know much about turbo cars and you probably shouldn't let him work on it.

It's is also possible your timing belt skipped a few teeth, or a rocker fell off, the check engine light is probably for a misfire.

Well the evo 1-3 motors are the same fitment but they are 7 bolt motors. The only thing better about them is the evo3 16g turbo 510cc injectors and a better flowing intake manifold. Your better off with the 6-bolt 1ga motor and buying the evo parts.

There is a tech article on this in the tech section, Luv2rally posted it. It's called o2 sensor wiring, and it explain which wires are which on the oem harness and the o2 sensor and it also has the universal one too. I would post a link to it but I don't know how.

Can you post a log with your airflow reading? That would help narrow it down.:thumb:

m8 x 1.25. 1in long and a lock washer.

Stock plugs are 6es. 7es are a step colder plug, 8es's are two steps colder and so on. 7es's are for more than 16 psi of boost up to mid 20's to help keep things cooler and avoid melting plugs, thatsthegist of it from what I've been told. 8es and 9es are for much higher boost and I've never...

I would take it off and replace it or the cam. Whichever is causing the wobbling will eventually break and throw your timing belt off. Whether it be the cam b/c the dowel pin is bent maybe you can heat it and bend it straight or get another cam, or replace the cam gear. Definately deserves...

Nice find. I've been looking for something just like this. Carbon looks great, but being a front splitter it's gonna get beat up a little, and I can't justify spending almost a hundred dollars on a carbon one that gonna be all scratched up eventually,and it's cheap.

Sounds like you have everything in order then. Good luck with your goals.

That all depends on your intake, and intercooler piping and how tight of a fit it becomes once the 2g maf is on, but that should be it, if anything you might need a smaller filter. Just make sure you wire your 1g to 2g harness correctly and you should be fine.

Well it wouldn't hurt to have a laptop to be able to make adjustments, and log from.

Yes that is completely normal b/c the ecu cuts fuel on deceleration. You can adjust your idle to bring it back to 750 rpms. There is a tech article on vfaq.com (also here on tuners) on how to do it. I'd post a link for you but I don't know how.

Not to mention that there is flex exhaust tubing in place of your bov pipe. Definately not good for the turbo to run without a bov.

Well since your cat doesn't have an electircal connection, and is not controlled by the ecu, it cannot throw a code for a bad cat. The only way you can determine that is by the rear o2 sensor. Not every mechanic is honest and will most of the time try to sell you shit you don't need just to...

I recommend going to mitsu for the thermostat b/c the ones at the part stores aren't oem, and the opening is smaller. It's only two or three dollars more, and will function much better.

Autozone, and probably some other parts stores in your area, carry Permatex gas tank repair kit. If not you can try JB Weld, and/or some good silicone, or epoxy,maybe even muffler tape(that comes with that really sticky glue), or you can try to use a screw extractor kit.

Thanks man, thats good to know. The pacesetter that was on my car when I bought it isn't going to last much longer (starting to get surface rust all over it) and this was going to be my next manifold, since I missed out on the FP group buy.

No cop, no ticket.ROFL

Did they say anything about them building these manifolds in house, or do they buy they ebay manifolds and re-inforce them?

Don't know the part number for it but that is your rear main seal. I would just call Mitsubishi and ask for the part number, but I'm sure someone here knows.

Change all four. If one is leaking they all are probably leaking.

Looks good, I want to do this to my spare cluster, but change all the gauges out.

All Mitsubishi exhaust housings have the same bolt pattern. I don't see any reason why it won't fit.

I would go 20g then port a 2g o2 housing. Sorry I see you have the vrs o2, that would probably be better.

It's possible that from a year of pulling the car in and out, starting it, letting it warm, then shutting down, the condesation in the exhaust fouled it out.

Yea, never go jiffy lube. If you dont do it your self take it somewhere reputable. I watched those vids on youtube of them driving cars into the cut-out in the floor, charging for work they never did(camera's were in the car to watch them), and what happened to you. They should be shut down.

I have a Megan Racing exhausts on mine and it has the angle to it.

Until you blow your piston ring from constantly washing the cylinders down with fuel and possibly blow the motor b/c gas is in your oil. Does that sound dangerous, b/c it is. Not trying to sound like an a## or flame you, just telling you what will happen b/c is sounds like you don't know...

Well the way you describe it sounds like you need to bleed the clutch, and/or adjust. If you tried to start it with the clutch in and the car jumped forward the clutch wasn't engaging. I would think if it was something in your tranny it would still be doing it.

Well if you got the drivetrain in the 93 just pull the motor from your current car and put it in the 93, problem solved.

Yeah, that hole is for the bracket for the coolant line, I just checked on my car, If you don't have the bracket don't worry about it. It's not going to leak or anything.

The ebay 16g's came with an adjustable actuator. You can try to contact the ebay member selling them and ask him if he can sell you just the actuator.

Nicely said. The only thing I want from a 1gb is the 4-bolt rear end. I myself like the 1ga front and rear body better.:dsm::rocks:

All you got to do is take off the rubber hangers on the exhausts so it can hang down some and cut the last bit from the top.

A bad throw-out bearing will usually make a rattling type of noise until you press the clutch in, I'm not sure if it will do anything else b/c thats all I've heard of. The chirping isn't your tires is it?

I worked at Acura for 6 months and I seen alot of cars with no cats and/or straight pipes, nobody cared at all.

You said that nothing on the thermostat housing is connected, and your coolant temp sensor is on there. When unplugged or broken it will give you a hard time trying to start it.

I got my -30/30 Prosport peak/warning electric boost gauge for $90 from MachV and it works great.

I got lucky searching through ebay and found a seller who had short route piping for $65 + $15 for shipping. Jumped on it quick b/c I knew he didn't know what the piping was worth. It came flanged for a 1g bov, with silicone couplers, and t-bolt clamps. Now those same piping kits are like...

+1 I got my core from the same place about eight months ago, works great.:thumb: