How many psi are you running with that 57 trim? The rest of your mod list looks fine to meet your needs, the 660 injectors may get a little lean up top with too much boost from the 57trim, but with a data logger you can keep a good eye on it.-c4

I got mine off a 1.8L 1991 Eclipse. They only came on the 1.8L variations. It takes a few more turns to get full lock but it isn't all that bad. I have a TRE spool in my AWD transmission and the manual steering is still very easy to handle.

What are your goals? Faster spool and decent power or slower spool and gobs of power. Even thought I have a 2.3L stroker, I'm very satisfied with my 50trim (read, smaller turbo, 450hp tops), it spools fast and I can still break all the tires free :)

Us folks with Tatoo's can't always give blood/plasma :( lolI've always used a crows foot to take off the lower portion of the fuel filter, works great.

It is hit or miss as to quality, I would highly recommend to purchase from our supporting vendors. Punishment Racing and or Forced Performance manifolds are top notch.-c4

The GM MAP was ~ 1-2 psi away from the boost est. You just need to adjust your airflow sliders slightly is all, not a bad 50lb of air though ;)-c4

HKS 264/272's are a good idle and not too aggressive where they will outflow the 16G. I had those with my 16G and they worked pretty good. Just know that your power band will get shifted a little bit and too large of cams will hurt the overall performance of your 16G.

Tt would work fine if you have good tools to create it out of gasket material (you can get gasket material in rolls at any auto store). I would do this if it is your last resort, the OE gasket should only cost a few dollars (8 dollars at JNZTuning) and you don't have to worry about doing...

That would work, just don't make the pipe smaller than what existing and choke your exhaust flow.

Stutterbox = holds RPM at set limit if MPH is less than defined "X" MPH. Anti-Lag = retarded timing + fuel (keeps spooling between shifts, and loud bangs out exhaust). Basically Stutterbox is for launching or no lift shift and would be more safe on your turbo imo.

Don't punch out the cat unless it is clogged, performance gains are not worth it. Replace it with a cat or replace it with a test pipe.

The only reason to get the "JDM" would be to get the 6-bolt in my opinion. The reason they claim under 30k miles on them is because of the strict emission laws requirement to basically get rid of the car prior to 30k miles. They, as you have proved, are not a direct swap.

"I NEED NOS"$0.02, you will not find an accurate # unless you dyno tune (and even those can vary from one dyno to the next). And yes you can get 11's on a street tune, some have done better times. You honestly have to know what you are doing and how to be safe...-c4

IMO, I wouldn't buy a tubular header for a daily driver. The gains from a tubular can be rather good with a large turbo (in terms of spool and flow), but for a daily driver I doubt it would be worth the hassle.-c4

I have a Fidanza Flywheel with a Comp Stage 4+ (sprung 6 puck) Clutch and the only time I really didn't like it at all is when I was breaking the clutch in. Now that it is broke in it feels awesome and revs really quick.

1G BOV = cheap and usually holds 17-18psi without modification.

I had a MAF-T prior to DSMLINK, and had problems with timing going up even with 650cc's. Maybe your buddy had the base timing way down?? Who knows. The MAF-T is nice and all, but I honestly wouldn't try to use it for a tuning device, its settings are too vague.

The stock 1G timing is rather aggressive to begin with. I would leave it at the 5btdc setting. If you increase or decrease the CAS timing, it affects your whole RPM range by whatever you adjusted your CAS by. The only time I would ever adjust the timing is if you have the proper tuning tools...

Crappiest response to a legitimate question *EVER*. DSMLINK is not overpriced by any means and is a great solution and would definitely be useful in this scenario.

I have an extremepsi "extra" laying around for mitsu drain if you are interested in a quality piece. PM me.-c4

I have the AEM, I have absolutely no complaints. (And DSMLINK loves it)-c4

I know that my 50 trim is a blast after say 18psi. I maxed my 650cc injectors out at 20psi with the 50 trim or atleast to the point I didn't want to turn the boost up any more.-c4

Have you done a compression test? Maybe you have leaky valve seals or valve related problems.

JB WELD plays well with both though, and powder coating protects it all! :) haha

I wouldn't drive my 1G awd as a DD since mine gets horrible gas mileage. But I'm mostly in town driver, it could get a little better on the highway.

If you get a long extension and a good 3/8 swivel + socket, you can take it off without removing the turbo. I've done it more times than I can count. MAC/Snapon > cheap tools.-c4

It doesn't matter what "base" tune you get with DSMLINK, you can change any settings. 6-bolt versus 7-bolt doesn't matter either. DSMLINK has the features needed in case you need to alter your CAS.-c4

The twin disk is a bad suggestion unless you are making A LOT (500-600+) whp.

It is rather firm to push against, it will take you some getting used to but will help in the long run.-c4

Yes. 2-2.25" roughly.

You will no longer need it if you are taking AC out.

Bingo!You could try turning your base timing down a few degrees to run more boost, or just get DSMLINK and do it right! :)-c4

I would slap that tow driver across the face. You may not hear a "snap crackle pop" but it doesn't mean that your viscous coupler didn't take some unneeded abuse.Nice car otherwise,c4

And you want high compression pistons on your DD?I'd say do this:1. Make a budget 2. Create a timeframe 3. Set a hp/tq goal-c4

I see no need to get a 1G head, the 2G will be fine. The 272's really don't need strong valve springs, but if it gives you a larger sense of security then go ahead. I would recommend replacing the timing/balance shaft belt and water pump (if is is still original) and accessory belts since you...

You can make a fast n/a, and you can also make a fast turbo. Ultimately you can make more power with a turbo. I'd say if you want to pick up 20whp, you can do it with your n/a with intake, exhaust, cams. If you want 50+whp, I'd say go turbo. N/A can also be very expensive, just as much as high...

It can seriously vary from car to car. What are your goals with the car? Do you want higher compression for more HP, better low rpm torque, is it a race car? Give us a little background and maybe we can better assist you.

Having a transmission go into gear as "certain" RPM's seems accurate, it is called rev matching. When the transmission and flywheel are spinning at the same RPM, a clutch wouldn't "need" to be pressed in, but it isn't great for your transmission by any means.

6-bolt swap in my personal opinion. CW is definately used too often and is an easy way out answer though. I wouldn't speculate too much until you know what the problem is for sure.

11:1 on a non turbo with 93 octane would probably still ping a little, I'd be concerned unless you had something to monitor you knock and or a tuning device to alter your timing a little.

Good post. Get two people, one to look at the clutch throw near the slave and one to pump the clutch. See if it extends the full throw, if it does than more than likely the clutch fork is damaged.

The bleeder is on your slave cylinder.RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech InfoLook at the above link, scroll down a bit and it has some information for you on how to diagnose your "ghost pedal".-c4

Shavings probably would not have got past the intercooler. Test the compression of your cylinders to verify you didn't scar up the cylinder walls. I'm willing to bet you don't need a rebuild on anything other than the turbo itself. You can borrow/rent a cylinder scope/cam to see the internals of...

I would first go through all of the maintenance. Then make some goals as to how much power you want, then ask this question again.

I'm not sure this is a very predictable answer. Ultimately the stock diff will break, when? Who knows.On a side note, I have a TRE spool and it is awesome! :) haha, sorry.-c4

Are goals max HP or fun street car?

Does it smell funny after you do this "WOT"? You either have a slipping clutch(funny smell) or possibly tons of knock.

With my 2.3L stroker, BSE and all four mounts being poly. My car shakes pretty good at idle (even at 1000rpm), but crusing at 3000rpm it is normal.

My car has damage like that from being jacked up from the previous owner. The alignment is still true, but it doesn't hurt to check.-c4

I see avatar turbo.