Well after getting a new fork and ball...this is the result...no bueno. :( Trans and motor are mated together in the video and picture...EDIT: Its a videoMore pictures...just disassembled the whole thing..WIth no disc in the middle...Its a stock trans, IPS light...
Thankfully the motor trans in the 99 are out of the car...so I will be taking a close up look at everything and posting pictures for you guys...as you may have guessed, the way it sits right now, the TOB is continuously touching the fingers of the PP. The Flywheel and Clutch combo on the 99 are...
No plate between the trans/engine on both cars. Stock setups on both cars...I really doubt the pivot ball isn't screwed in but its a possibility which I will look into. Haven't separated the motor/trans yet but when I do will be sure to take some measurements. Thanks for the insight. BTW I...
I don't think anything else would fit in there...line up with the TOB, line up with the slave...can't be that big of a coincidence...I ordered the parts straight from Mitsu for the exact year/model..
Here is a picture of my fork on my car and you can see what I mean with the Slave being pushed all the way in...I should also mention (and this is a few years old)...I distinctly remember the second time around when installing my transmission that the slave cylinder was much harder to install...
I was going to bump up an old thread but I decided against it because this is for a different car...same family different platform. :) I'm really hoping you guys can help...haven't gotten much of a response from the 3/s boards...So here is the issue...95 3000GT VR-4...after adjusting other...
damn..very interested in it. I will defiantly be waiting for his reply. Can someone please PM his email address? I would sure love to get in contact with him.
nice thread here...currently running 26lbs of boost on my hx35...with the BEP hotside...so far I've made approximately 460hp according to ECMlink. This is with e85, built head/block plus supporting mods. Full weight though. 98 GSX 5 speed.At the moment it wouldn't hold more than 26lbs of...
Hey guys, when I say I'm running 8 degrees advance I meant that the Timing slider at the 8000rpm mark is at 8 degrees instead of 0.The datalogs and ECMlink are all installed on my other laptop, I can't wait to compare info and post my own logs..lolAlso, what is 'DA'?The exhaust system is...
I can't see the log, what program do I need to view that file? I will definitely post a log of one of the few pulls that we did.I wont take any chances, I'm gonna order up a walbro 400 before I make any other changes.Hey that's great advice GSXDNA, I've read that the mazdaspeed guys have...
I'll need to look at the logs and check IDC's and air flow numbers it seems. Thanks a lot man!! :DWith an upgraded pump, realistically how much whp is my setup good for??
Hmm...that upgrade may need to happen a lot sooner than I was expecting. I don't want to take any risks like that.How can I tell how many lbs/min I'm flowing at a certain boost level??
Thanks for the input. The car was just recently given life so I'm not going for broke yet just trying to make sure its doing what its supposed to do. I have VD software so I"ll try plugging the numbers into that and seeing what happens.The walbro 255 will likely need to be replaced with a...
So we just started cranking up the boost on my brothers 98 GSX. Its got 6 bolt eagle/wiseco bottom end, Fully ported 2g head with +1mm valves and upgraded valvetrain port matched 1g IM and ported 2g exhaust manifold with HKS 264/272 cams.The setup for the most part consists of:
HX35 w/BEP...
Brownfinger thanks for your input
I have read in many forums that people have used RTV where the wax is instead of getting a block off plate
and YES i know that is my issue
I have already done a BOOST leak test and know for sure that my tb or biss screw o-ring aren't the problems. My ISC is...
Hey guys not trying to bring this back but i had a quick question.
I just want to do the RTV fix for the fiav..Do i put the RTV in the hole which i circled in the picture?I plan on keeping my coolant lines going to the TB but want to fix my high idle.Thanks for my help
I'll try to get a fpr, but I'm sure there are hundreds of people who have run setups with a walbro 255 and no problems...such as this... it cant be that complicated...its a dsm afterall..What do you think?Ive got a 14b, hard pipes and an exhaust with a fuel pump(which came with the car..)
New thermostat is in...not much of a difference from the old one. Now coolant temp registers at 212 or214. With the old one, no matter if I was on the highway or city, temperatures registered in at 217 or 219. Not more, not less. Even with the new thermostat, the lower hose is still cool..WTF is...
Well the thermostat was stuck closed. After driving 50 miles and pulling over on the highway, the lower coolant hose was dead cold. I pulled the thermostat now I'm waiting for a replacement.
I reconnected the mas wire. The loud transmission noise, at first sounded like a bad TOB, because each time I would press the clutch it would disappear. So....I pulled the trans off, changed the TOB and the noise was still there. Its much quieter now, especially when the car is warmed up,(I...
1-3 check out OK but isn't running between 206-224 kind of warm? I was under the impression that 180-19X was good operating temp.4. No fp gauge so haven't checked that yet. From tonight's runs though, I don't think that's an issue any longer. I did a few pulls, not just once and the car...
Here's a little update. A few days ago, while looking under the hood I noticed that the coolant hose to the turbo was slowly leaking coolant. It was because the clamp wasn't on properly, so I adjusted the clamp and thought all was well. Topped off the coolant and off I went.So now it was...
Good points...I don't believe its bad fuel as there has been no notable difference between 93 and 100 octane.Spark inadequacy...Ive got NGK 7's and NGK wires...on stock coils...with the exception of boost...it runs and starts perfectly fine...no issues at all.Again, it starts, idles and...
I'm not planning on getting DSMlink for this car. Yeah, I would've yanked the 255 out also but that's just too much of a hassle.The car has come a long way since I became its new owner. a LONG way..now this is the final thing...everything else mechanically is fixed...So is this it? No...
Wonderful, I was just going to post the same thing...turns out I can't adjust the timing on the 2g's.I just installed a new knock sensor...read the 1st post. Where do I go from here?
I have decided to check my base timing next...Whether I can see knock on a graph or not wont really change anything....the only reason the timing is being pulled is because of knock or improper base timing or something else which I'm not aware of yet.No heatshield for the manifold also...
I know its knock, thats why its killing my timing..all of the variables that could cause knock have been taken care of thats why I'm stumped..the only way I can view knock is with DSMlink...Watching timing is the same thing as watching knock except that the graph is inverted...knock goes up...
good question. It has bpr7es gapped at .28...they looked alright when I pulled them out recently...I'll pull em and post pictures..any other ideas? Ive got NGK wires as well...
I removed the AFC last night. Before I removed it and after removal made no difference. I didn't think it was an issue but I wanted no doubts..I had the battery disconnected while removing the afcNo afpr...stock 2g fpr
Relevant Information97 Talon TSiFresh 7 bolt Motor with under 10k miles, 180 compression across the board
NEW 2g knock sensor just installed, snug and I teflon taped the threads
NO boost leaks tested up to 20+lbs14b@12lbs of boost
TBE with hi-flo cat
Intake and UICP
Walbro 255 FPI cant...