My crank sensor failed, so I swapped it out, heard thr new one rubbing, shut it off, swapped out the trigger plate. Its still touching. What am I missing here? Ive assembled several engines and never had one do this. The end play is fine.
This is a track only car. I put the clutch in 3 weeks ago and it only has about 20 miles of backroads driving on it (4 trips). The problem didnt occur until the last time I drove it
Ok cool. Am I right in thinking the whole car vibration could be coming from a lack of.oil? It drove fine 3 days prior, then I took it out and it was shaking badly at 30+mph. And there was a small amount of oil on the floor before I left(noticed when coming back) and after it sat over night...
im looking for all the transmission seal part numbers for the 95 awd 5spd transmission.passenger axle out- MD707184 (I think)driver side axle out-output to transfer case-input shaft seal-and the transfer case seals
input seal-
outlet seal-thanks guys
The last Drive I took my car on...
well after lots of measuring and reading i ended up getting 12mm hubcentric spacers off amazon by "uber technic". the apcers were dead on and had the 67.1 mm lip the perfectly fit my wheels and hubs. i spent yesterday installing my arp extended wheels studs and mounting them all. i did some test...
Looking for input from guys that run large tires. I have about 4-6 mm clearance between my tires and the upper control arm in the rear with tires at 30 psi. I jnow when I air down it will rub. Im trying to figure out what size spacers I need. I was thinking 10-15 mm. The wheels are a 40mm...
based on the chart above, a hoosier qtp 26x9.5r16 will not fit my 16x6 wheels. so what is the correct drag radial? i keep hitting dead ends trying to find the right drag radial. yet on summit racing website it lists this size for 6in minimum recomended wheel width. now im lost lol
Well I don't care to check club 3g since its a 2g. And also I think you are right about clearing that size. But what is a good option for not axle breaking sticky? Right now I spin all of first at a prepped dragstrip and Im only lainching at 4500 at 16psi. I don't want to lower the rpms or it...
i looked for this answer but found mixed resultsok, so looking at a set of 245/50r16 nitto nt555r radials for this season. they seem to have the right grip/slip ratio i want.....
BUT im not sure they will fit my wheels/ suspension etc. i have 2001 eclipse gt factory enkie wheels that i would...
i took it to 3000 to be sure. and i still havent finished yet. its 104* here right now in OREGON and when i tried yesterday in my shop where it was about 95 the compund was drying too fast. so ill have to wait and do it late at night when i dont have to work the next day. if i could find a way...
ok, so what i ended up doing. i started with 1500 wet , then 2000 wet, then 3000 wet until the paint was as flat as i felt comfortable with in the safe areas avoiding the edges. then i hit it with a wool pad on a variable speed polisher using meguiars 105 until almost all the scratch marks were...
like in my op, i want the paint as good as possible, it is UNTOUCHED never waxed paint that i want it as perfect as possible and then wax/ seal. the car almost never gets driven other than a cruise or at the track.
ok, so im seeing alot of great and experienced information here, but not the exact answer im looking for. should i wet sand (cut) my car BY HAND, and should i polish with a dual action polisher and compounds, (and what compounds?)
see this is what i mean by, NO F-ING CLUE WHAT IM DOING, you started saying compounds and stuff and lost me. im not an idiot, i know what wet sanding and polishing is with a dual polisher and cutting. ive just never done it. and bastarddsm, are you saying it will look beter if i just wax it as...
So when I bought the current chassis it came with fresh paint on it. The paint was done very well the entire car was disassembled and stripped prior to the paint job. He painted it with a diomond base and emerald clear. The car to this day has still never been waxed cut buff polish or anything...
97eclipse.... Please stop giving incorrect information about this topic. The sensors are not readily available nor are they cheap. Not only that, there is nothing wrong with the sensor. Being a consistant 10 off means the gauge is incorrect. If it was a sensor issue the speedometer would have...
No, if its reading then its not a.sensor. I replaced.my gauge faces and had to stick the speedometer needle.on while driving with the gps to get it correct again.
Im running an hy35, but with the holset turbine housing. Mine hit the water pipe and the block. I ended up using a half inch spacer between the manifold and the block. But yours looks farther to the passenger side than most
I took my fwd auto turbo and made it an awd auto then an awd manual so it would be opposite for a few things. You will need the engine harness from the auto car so the trans solenoid connections will go in. You will also need the auto rear diff, auto front axles and front half shaft since its a...
Ok,good deal.the build was running really smooth and fast, I knew for sure I was going to blow the stock bottom end. It was only a matter of time/power level
I have a friend who is going to be running this hx40 divided set up after being disappointed with his gtx3076r on an fp turbine housing on dsm flange. He saw the spool and air flow my hy35 was making and is hooked. Is it typical for an hy35 to flow 52.9lbs/min at 33psi? That's what I was seeing...
Yes I have. But even if they were swapped the manual shifter would work correctly with first and third would it? And your talking about the pulse generators that have the transparent and black insulation right?
Do after the person swap into the new car I now have no second and no overdrive. I thought it might be a tcu issue so I wired in a manual shifter box and had the same result. I tried all 3 tv's I have and same result. One time I did get tcu codesfor second gear incorrect ratio and general...
I am running the feed and drain kit from extreme psi. I did the balance shaft elimination while the engine was out. So I took the oil inlet fitting and welded it shut and drilled a 7/64 hole in it. No issues
im trying to find the home made shit box write up. the only one i can find is http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/homemade-shifter-for-automatic.320324/ but the wiring colors are incorrect in this so i am searching for the origional. there is no orange wire on the 2g rans connector
Holy he'll. Picking up by flex player didn't remove it? You might be able to apply compressed air to the pressure port on the outside of the trans, I think it's one of the cooler ports. And see if it forces the converter off via the pump port. Pneumatic over hydraulic pressure is dangerous so be...
Adjust you clutch rod at the pedal inside the car. The pressure plate is only partially engaging the disk. When the clutch disk is cold it is much stickier than warm which is why. (Stock disk). You need to give it more engagement. if this doesn't work then your clutch is shot
old thread revive, sorry. i also just finished the battery relocation (pos and neg to engine bay with 1ga) and now the windows, locks and mirrors don't work. i tested the switches, all ok. fuses good. when i apply ground to the larger black wire at the rear of the drivers switch with my power...
They will still pass. You can make the car show whatever you want with link.and you will be using the narrowband simulator so you don't need the rear o2
i couldn't respectfully disagree more.... this is a SHORT but CRITICAL stage in the engines life. especially if the valve cuts and rings/cylinder bore surface are new. the way the engine is broken in ultimately determines exact compression ratio, rev characteristics and how well the valves will...
that is a good method. but the first part.. let idle and run to op temp, then allow to FULLY cool off then let idle to op temp before going to drive. there is red line and royal purple break in oil, but those aren't necessary.
i am currently waiting for my custom o2 housing to bolt on to my holset hx35 t3 turbine housing. i made a template with the correct measurements and angle and it is now at a fab design shop being built. im curious, how many people would be interested in an o2 housing that will bolt a holset...
if you look at his picture of the fuel tank bolts welded in, up and to the right of the bolt is a larger hole, i used a magnet and fished all of my bolts for the new tank bolts into the new locations. i didnt have to cut anywhere to install the strap bolts. i am ready to install th rear subframe...