The problem is a worn intermediate shaft bearing on the bellhousing side. The trans will need a rebuild. Verify first that it isn't a shift linkage problem and there is nothing obstructing the movement of the shift levers under the hood on the trans. You can verify that it is not a shift...

These transfercases are not interchangeable. Doing so can damage the center differential and/or the center differential viscous coupling as these units have different gear ratios.

I have rebuilt countless DSM transmissions for cars making stock power all the way to 900 whp. I have used gearsets that have been shotpeened, REMed and all other treatments from other shops, they are all going to break anyway if you make enough power. I just think that the whole "built...

In my opinion don't waste your money. Replace the worn parts, shim the trans tight (this makes the biggest difference), and be done with it. A trans with stock internals is just that....a stock trans. All of these gear treatments aren't worth the cash and only make you feel better. As far as...

The intermediate shaft does not spin while the car is idling and not moving. It sounds like your problem is not the intermediate shaft taper bearings.

I have done it a few times. You don't need to take the trans completely apart, you just need to get far enough to remove the center diff to weld it. You only need to self the bottom side gear to the case, the rest of the internal (including the viscous coupling) you can leave out.

You can not use the internals from your AWD trans in your FWD but you can modify your AWD trans to work in your FWD. You will need to weld the center differential and block the output shaft hole.

Yes, it is moment of inertia which equals mass*radius^2. This means that weight that is further from the center of the disc has exponentially more effect on the synchros ability to change the speed of the input shaft and the clutch disc quickly. A heavy clutch disc will shift noticably slower...

Your rear differential mount bushings are probably worn. This is a common problem for 2G AWD cars. Raise the car and take a look at where the differential mounts to the rear subframe. You may need to place a pry bar between the differential and the subframe and pry gently to check for play.

I'm bringing this one back from the dead.I'm looking for the lightest clutch disc available, I want the quickest high RPM shifting on a single disc clutch. Currently I'm looking into purchasing the ACT unsprung 4 puck. Does anyone know the weight of this disc or any other clutch discs that...

Yup, they are regrinds and they did not include shims in the package. I am a little upset because I sent them a set of genuine HKS 264 cams that had 2 scored cam journals to repair. I called a month later to follow up because I had not heard back from them. When I called they said they didn't...

I talked to the guy from delta cam at length. He assured me these cams were identical to HKS 264s. He said they were not regrinds and that they were made from new billet stock.# 10 washer you say? Does anyone know the exact thickness that the shin is supposed to be? Thanks in advance.

I pulled the car into the shop today and removed the valve cover. Every single rocker that did not have pressure on it from the cam lobe had play in it. Then I took out my dial caliper and measured the diameter of the cams (where it rides on the rocker arm ignoring the raised lobe) and the...

The car had been off for about 3 days. I was going to swap the lifters today but I didnt have time. I'll do it tomorrow or the following day. I was going to do a compression check after I swapped the lifters just for kicks even though I don't think there is anyway that the lifters could have...

The springs and the rest of the valve train is stock. I think I am going to remove, clean, and bleed (or replace) the lifters tomorrow. I'll report back with the results. Thanks for the help and if anyone has any comments please share.

I did not bleed them, I have never had to bleed them in the past. I simply removed the stock cams and put these cams in. I never removed the lifters or rocker arms. I have installed after market cams in the past and I run HKS 272s in my Talon. The car is extremely noisy now, it is definitely...

Interesting. I might have a set of 3g lifters sitting around, I could try swapping them out. I really don't understand why it went from quiet to EXTREMELY noisy. I never shimmed the lifters either, these are not regrind cams.

Looking for thoughts or input from anyone on this issue here.I purchased a set of Delta cam HKS 264 cams for my daily driver 98 GSX and I installed them along with new OEM pulleys and a new OEM EVO 9 timing belt. After the cam install there was a lot of valve train noise, it sounded like...

that is the reverse synchro otherwise know as the reverse brake. The larger diameter synchro came in sometime around 92 I dont know the exact date i would have to check my caps program.

I would like someone who has actually used this in their 2G GST to chime in.

If you have a picture of yours i can tell you where everything goes

You can not double the springs in the 3/4 hub or the 5/reverse hub. There simply is not enough room. Double synchro 3/4 is available, PM me if your interested.

Well I still have to speak with Adam. The person that I spoke with probably made that assumption because he understood that the vc actually connects the center diff basket and the out put shaft (which which ultimately connects to the rear end). In reality we know that the strength or shall I...

I opened a vc a couple years back, ill have to open another and get back to you.As far changing the fluid in the vc i contacted Devo Tuning. Initially they said it was done in New Zealand. I was told to call back for more info. The second time i called I was told it makes the...

You are right heat does decrease the viscousity of the fluid (Ijust figured that out). I believe it might be the shearing action that causes the fluid to become more viscous.Edit: and i dont believe the plates ever touch

I dont have too much information on that but I did hear a couple years ago that there was a rally car preparation shop located in Lake Zurich called TAD that had access to or did just that (change the fluid in the VC). I have tried to contact TAD but i have not had any luck.

i heard awhile ago about draining the fluid inside the viscous coupling and refilling it with a a more viscous fluid. This would do nothing to the torque split but would allow the diff to lock faster. I am still searching for someone who has more information on this.

All of the information is out there. Do some research on intake manifold design. You are not trying to acheive fluid flow of the air into the runners so much as you are trying to acheive a large volume of air for each runner to pull from when the the valves from that cylinder are open.

Maybe it was a buyer that asked him to make it with an extreme taper. I don't know for sure.

Not to argue but his runner design is not optimal. Fluid dynamics are not and should not be the underlying principal behind runner design. A short runner with an extreme taper is far from optimal.

The center tripod pieces are different, so you will need more than the cup.

I dont see any reason why it would not fit. No, the ratios are not different. It may actually be the same model that is sold for the 92-99 dsm.

Ideally the plenum should be as close to spherical as possible, this is not always practical due to space. The Ams vsr manifold is arguably the best manifold available for a dsm.

A tapered plenum is not ideal.

I will attempt to explain although you may need to have the hub, slider, gear, synchro assembly in hand to fully understand.The springs in the hub push the keys outward against the slider. The keys rest on the slider and move with the slider as you shift gears. When you shift gears the...

if you are on a tight budget, and do not have the cash to spend for the double second gear setup you can double up the springs for the keys on the 1/2 slider. Shifting will be a bit more notchy at low RPMs but it will shift much better at high RPMs.

also, if you plan on staying with the 16g then you don't really need the double synchro 3rd. The double synchro 3rd is only needed when shifting at high rpms.

If you drive the car on the street a lot you may want to get the double synchro first gear. I know i hate having to come to a complete stop then having to wait for it to go into first. If this bothers you then consider the ubpgrade. I know i like to roll stop signs.

That gold ring is the "reverse brake" not the 5th synchro.I dont think your problem has anything to do with the 5th hub/slider, gear, synchro, etc. Your problem is probably something stuck or broken by the rail ends, in which case you will need to pull the trans apart.

When you are turning the the inside rear tire is spinning the slowest. Beacause of this the average speed of both rear wheels when you are turning is slower than the average speed of the front tires. The center diffderential is there to compensate for this, the rear wheels will be allowed to...

no, power is split between the rear and the front tires through the center diff. It is really quite simple.

I took some washers and put them to a grinder until they pressed into the hole nicely. Now there is no play.

The 90 gearset is in effect a 'heavy duty' gear set. I like the tooth profile on the 90-91 gears better than the 92-99, the blunt edge seems like it might be more durable. You can use the 90 3/4 parts but you will need a 90-91 intermediate shaft and a 90-91 center diff basket. I would avoid...

You will want to use the 92 build date. The gears and hub/slider you want are the gears and hub/slider that are for the same car as the 90-92 shift fork. The shift fork changes in mid 92, you want the stuff that goes with that earlier shift fork, not the later one.

read this post groundPork

you will need the 3rd gear, 4th gear, hub and slider from 92. I would help you out with the part numbers but my computer is down right now.

I know, i rebuild many transmissions. Hey is trying to use the solder itself as a shim, this will not work.

it drops in. Either one will have Spacers. You are not droping in the 90-91 stuff you will be droping in the 92 stuff and yes it is a direct drop in with the 90-92 fork. You will also need to set the input shaft endplay when you are done.

solder will not work as a shim

Snap on makes a gear puller set that will work for removing the 5th gear on the intermediate shaft, it costs somewhere around $300. As far as removing the 5th gear on the input shaft (it's actully the hub that's splined on the shaft) I use two or three prybars and be very carefull not to chip...