So this meet is canceled?

16-20psi!! thats why there are only a few runing dsm's.

1. Javi - plates and silverware 2. Mahesh - chips/guac... maybe some fried rice <----EDWINS JOB MAHESH 3. Brian - Surprise Desert (pending weather forcasts, hot or cold, very american either way) 4. Eben - big bag of Charcoal 5. Patrick - Drink's (soda,water, other)First time attending...

A AEM Tru-Boost Gauge will function as both but its expesive $329.00. manual boost controller $100 & boost gauge $60-$120.

if you just bolt on a 16g with no supporting mods, your car is actually going to run slower. the turbo spools slower that the stock t25.1. need 650cc injectors 2. dsm link or at least afc 3. boost gauge 4. boost controller 5. at least 190 fuel pumpnot in order.

you have dsmlink right? because dsmlink has the option to invert the cas signal.

do you have a data logger? how is your timing

also http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Before you replace the turbo, you need to 1.replace timeing belt 2.compression test the engine 3.make sure you fix every leak 4.get all supporting mods 5. then you can get a bigger turbo.

if it makes noise when you change gears then is not the struts. check the gear oil level on the transmission.

Get dsmlink and 650cc injectors. you will be able to run 15psi safely.

check the struts(shocks). most likely you need to replace them.

I am from watsonville, I drive a green 2g gsx with black rims.

Dont just put a bigger bolt, use a tap. Or buy a greddy knock-off of ebay and take the cap off.

With the AFC you cant. With dsmlink you can but you need to have a laptop in your car or at least a palm pilot to switch between tunes

Most likely thats what my cars problem was. You should try it too Redturbo eclipse it might fix it, but make sure you replace the rubber seal on the top of the tank.

Well I took the pump out and checked the sender arm but everything was good :confused:. So I just put everything back together. Today finally the gauge read lower than 1/4 tank.:) I guess I fixed it some how.

Saw a white gst on highway 1 today. The only turbo eclipse I've seen on highway 1 in months.

My car has the same problem. The fuel gauge stays at the 1/4 mark and the fuel light comes on.I am going to bend the sender unit down a bit this weekend to see if it fixes the problem.

The antilag option makes your car run really rich. I had mine set up at 3200 rpm and it build 15 lbs of boost.

It does matter, check what code it has. Any kraggen or autozone will check for engine codes for free. Also the afc only reduces the air the computer sees to compensate for bigger injectors.

I have a 1G flange to hks adpter, but I have never seen a greddy to hks.

"the check engine is on and will stay on because of the apexi afc"I had the apexi afc, the check engine light is not suppose to come on.

Look at the 8th picture in this link http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-2GAWD.html Make sure the plastic ring in on tight.

You might want to buy another bov, see the link below http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0612_impp_knock_off_tuner_car_parts/photo_06.htmlLook at the gasket differences (greddy rs).

It's really easy, check this link http://www.geocities.com/spencerhut/talon/center_differential_repair.htmHope it help's

My car made a loud sound when the center differential broke. But the noise was only when I made a slow turn.

ACT 2100 with street disk and ACT XACT Flywheel. Thats what I installed on my car about 8 months ago and it's great.

Whent back to the alignment shop today, and yeah the bolt it's rusted:cry:. I have to buy a new lower control arm:mad:.

the guy at the alignment shop said there was no more adjustment on the rear toe. How can I adjust it? I installed a rear camber kit, would that be the problem?

I just got back from the alignment shop,can someone tell me if I will have any problems with those adjustments?http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/toxicangel_1/alignment97.jpg

Make sure you use new turbo bolts, also it was easier to use the 2g coolant lines then the ones on the kit.

Check this one out.http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclexhaust.htm

I am a new member and I just saw this thread, hopefully I can get my car running good enough to go the meet:rocks:

The same thing happened to me. All I had to do is replace the seal that connects the transfer case to the transmission which was the one that was leaking. For the 2 seals it was like $14.

I'm using afcII, And yeah my car is running rich 10 to 1 on the wideband at wot.

ok, can anyone tell me if this log look good. Its at 15 psi. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p63/toxicangel_photo/log121.jpgThank's

ok I fixed it, I adjusted the clutch pedal, removed the transfer case and replaced the two oil seals. And now it run great.LOL

ok I was coming back from work and I stop at a stop light and the car would not go into gear, after a few minutes I got it into first and parked the car. I looked under the car and it was leaking gear oil. I was about to add gear oil in the transmission but it was full, I checked the transfer...