I had some question bout venting the bov back into the intake and to the atmosphere. Please let me know which is better for performance, or if it doesn't matter.

I have to bleed the master cylinder lines, but I don't know where it is located. LEt me know.

dam...so what size wheel spacer do I need and where can i get one for cheap?

Man...every post i've made in past couple days, its ended in a verbal fight between dsmers...c'mon guys.

How much would it raise the numbers about...??? Should I do the test again or just assume that it'll be higher and i'm good...

Well, the car was shut off for about 30 mins which I assumed it would be close to normal working temperature. The car was driven for about 6-8 miles regular driving. Should I have driven hard for couple mins before I did this??? Also, what if the numbers stay the same even after running...

Alright, I did the compression test over the weekend. The thing is I got alright numbers, like 15-, 15-, 15-, 16-. Can't remember the exact numbers but thats bout how they were. The thing is I didn't get to hold down the gas as I was cranking it. How would this effect the compression...

I guess so, but how much are the spacers and where should I get it from.

Well, I only have 2 of these, and wasn't gonna put them on the back. And I was gonna put them on the front because the front ones are worn out unevenly...If I make it 40mm, I think it would stick out too far. I hope it fits cause I got two of those for free :D .Well, let me know if anybody...

Would 235 tire on a 18x8 with +45 offset not rub in the front wheels??? I heard that in some cases, the control arm would rub the tire or something like that. Let me know if anybody is running that size tires on 45 offset. thanks

I'll try that, but what if i'm going to be putting all new intercooler piping since I'll be buying a new fmic. That should fix it right... with a new bov, new piping, new intercooler.

I have a greddy type-s bov...

Ok, first of all I have a 2g gst, big t28, rc 550, walboro 190, evo3 o2 housing, rre race dp, and n1 catback, with evolution manual boost control, and s-afc, stock side mount. The problem is I only pulled 220hp and 239.7 tq. My air/fuel was where it should be of 12.1 from 4000 to 7000...

How is the hydraulic tensioner suppose to be adjusted to??? Also, how can the idle bearing be rebuilt??? Thanks for your info.

I'm going to be getting my car tuned on thursday. Right now I have the big t-28 with walboro 190, rc 550, and s-afc. evo3 o2 housing, rre dp, rre test pipe, n1 catback, and other basic upgrades. How much boost could I push up to with pump gas???

Its not too tight or too lose. We've checked everything, we were also considering that it might be the auto tenisoner/idle's bearing might be bad. Not sure, I just heard him talking to another mitsu tech. If the noise doesn't go away, I guess I have to buy Mitsu belt with Mitsu auto...

I just replaced my timing belt almost two weeks ago with the pro street timing belt kit. It was just fine for first couple days, and now its making noises from where the belt is touching the timing gears. When I take a closer look at the belt, it has stretched marks, tiny little crack...

Is not because I have huge breaks, its just that I wanna make it look good for show and be able to race with it.

Are 19s too big for autox and road racing? Also could 235/35/19s fit on our 2g cars, if so with what offset. I read that it could fit with +40 offset and someone else also said it rubs in the back and etc. Let me know if anyone is running 235/35/19s on their 2g.

He's setup at 50-52 psi of fuel pressure. It's a 98 GST with the stock 2g mas. Is it because his fuel pressure is high???

Friend of mine as a Green turbo with 255 fuel pump, rc 550. Also have fpr but can't remember what he set the pressure to. He has the whole engine fully built, w/ all the basic add on mods. He was telling me that when he put the 550 injectors, the car would have trouble starting with black...

I did mention it to him that I have illuminas. I told him about what heard about the diff of koni travel distan. and illuminas and etc. I also asked him if the illuminas could handle it and he said he wasn't 100% sure or something like that. I can't quite remember.Also I did mention...

would 500 front w/ 450 in the rear be good setup for auto cross and road race??? Would this setup help get rid of significant amount of understeer??? Are those spring rates too much for illuminas to handle???

Alright a friend of mine who has a greddy turbo kit with emanage on his civic hatch back says he could use his wide band o2 to tune my car. I have the safc to tune, is this possible and if so how does he tune the whole rpm band with my car stationary....I'm kinda of lost on that, please fill me...

Now that you explain it that way, I'll call GC again and talk to them and see what they say bout the whole engine weight and etc. But that makes sense to me as well. But I think would like little stiffer than 250 in the back... Maybe 500 and 450 in the back. I really don't mind that much...

Thanks for the info, just checking up. I thought thats what RRE said on the website but wanted to double check.The thing is I have the evo o2 w/ RRE dp, but I'm getting a hell of a deal on the n1 dp. Just trying to save money, but guess not.

Does the evo o2 housing and apexi n1 dp bolt up right??? Please let me know ASAP.Do you recommend, RRE DP or Apexi N1 DP.. Thanks alot.

If the front suspension is stiffer than the back, doesn't that mean you'll have understeer. Especially if you have a FWD which is already set to have understeer... Correct me if I'm wrong thanks.

I had a chance to do some research and talk to lotta people on board and even ground control. This is what I've came to decide.They recommended me to setup w/ 450 in front with 525 in rear for my tokico illuminas, to get rid of some of the understeer and etc. The thing I'm worried is that...

What's Fic type??? I know that the injectors make clicking noise when the car is on, but the car was never on, the key was just turned two clicks to ON position.

Kool thanks for your help. One more thing...the stock o rings are on the injectors right now. If they didn't rip and etc and its on correctly, it shouldn't make any clicking noise continously for a while rite???

Should I just go get some new o rings and insulator from Mitsubishi, or get one from RRE. Is there any difference??? The stock o rings that I put aren't green, they were like pale yellow...

So the insulator doesn't go inside the fuel rail like the o ring? Would the stock o rings work for my rc injectors???

Where is the fuel pump check connector and how would do I use it??? Thanks

Can anybody help me??? It also makes a weird single click noise when I put it onto on position. And after a while it starts to make that continous clicking noise for a while and goes away. Please let me know if anybody knows anything about this. Thanks

At first i used a o ring that I had which looks to be smaller than the ones on the stock injectors. Once i turned the key to on position it made click noises but turned the car on anywas and it started to leak. Than I put the o ring from the stock injectors. After I did that and put the...

I tried to install my RC 550 injectors in over the weekend, and when i turn the key to on position it made clicking noises, and when i turned the car on gas was leaking.What my question is, is the top lower insulator suppose to go into the fuel rail or right below the fuel rail??? Mine...

I tried to install my RC 550 injectors in over the weekend, and when i turn the key to on position it made clicking noises, and when i turned the car on gas was leaking.What my question is, is the top lower insulator suppose to go into the fuel rail or right below the fuel rail??? Mine...

I've installed a rc 550 on my car over the weekdn and it started to leak so I put the stock o rings that were on the stock injectors, but never got a chance to crank it up cuz i was afraid that it'll leak again. The problem is when I first installed the 550 w/ the o ring that I had and...

GOOD GOOD GOOD. Thanks for the help. I will be getting the apexi N1. Is that the exhaust I should be looking to buy for the setup??? I also might be upgrading to the new FP2544, so let me know wassup. Thanks

I have recently purchased the Evo O2 housing, RRE DP, and RRE test pipe. As you guys know the DP goes from 2.5 to 3. I currently have a Big-T28 setup. Am I losing too much power w/ a 3 inch exhaust piping???

Why is 18 silly???

okay...i'm kinda lost. what is the vertical link and your saying that it'll fit if i use 35 instead of 40...??? thanks

Will 18 by 8.5 with +45 offset fit in the rear??? I've already rolled the fenders and currently runny 18 by 8 with +45 offset. Let me know. Thanks.

Little off topic, but Airpoppoff...how are those new nittos in rain?

Does dejon use spearco core????

Would 18 by 8.5 with a +30 offset fit on our cars??? Also, anyone here use goldline or tein lower springs, if so please let me know how they are.

I'm not sure bout the Dejon tool FMIC... But I think I'm liking the VP FMIC better, so I might go with that. The end tank on the VP seems to be different than that of PS. Imma call them up and see what the difference is. Thanks for the info.

I would like to the which is a better buy. The Pro street online's Street intercooler kit or the victory performance street intercooler kit. The VP is cheaper and also comes with slim fan, and it also has same type core(correct me if I'm wrong). Let's hear it.

Whats the difference for the lowering springs for the gsx and gst. Would set of gsx springs work on gst. I heard something bout the rear spring rate being different, not sure exactly bout it.And have anybody heard anything bout Vogtland lowering springs??