I had to build a rear transmission mount for both the W series and the R series toyota transmissions to the Conquest

I am the dawg keeping the other dawg on the porch >;o)

after a LOT of snading and sanding and SANDING, the molding is done I keep using the datum lines to keep it straight, its a long processthen it gets casted, the pattern is on the left and the cast housing is on the rightthe numbers for the machine work was gathered before the...

how are you going to start? well I need a datum line and what better place to start then to cut an engine in half and begin the build, the first step to a long journey starts with the first step, DO IT NOW!this swap required a flex plate as well as a bellhousingan...

you can find the U tube vidoe on the starter testing here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1V3cIFwf14&feature=youtu.be

I build all kinds of bellhousings for the 4G63 this is the T 5 or TKO transI could do it for the 6G7x series but I havent had anybody ask about it

yeah, I built that tooI am a mess :D

there was a sheet metal fence around the curves of the track, some guy missed the groove and got stuck under it >;o))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) those were the days It was a real loose fine dust track, no banking, I didnt like it very much

this was me in about 1977lotta really fast guys up there

yeah, the pattern creates a cavity in a sand cast, then the pattern is removed and 6061 aluminum is poured in the cavity these are core boxes that hold the sand cavity while the aluminum is poured, after the aluminum cools, the core box is broken away then the aluminum is...

yes, that is bondo, after the skeliton is built from aluminum, bondo is used to get the proper wall thickness in all the various areasthen after the pattern is built the casting is built from the patternthe patterns can be built from wood, plastic...

find a friendly welding shop and talk to them, the range of questions you are asking about requires a lot of answersusually you use the rod that matches the steel you are welding, same goes with aluminum, you should now what you are welding before you choose which rod for the application...

I have built them for the C 4 automaticI had to build my own flex plate I built a coupler and used a reverse rotation ring gear the I used a 10 inch converter then I built the skeliton frame work for the bellhousing I placed the starter right into the...

those throw out bearings are built that, I forgot the reason, but I went through all that mis alignment stuff and found out, that is the way they are made they are a constant contact style bearing and they are built to take the heatthe spring/diaphram in the old pressure plate is soft/bad

the only time you resurface or replace a flywheel is if it shudders or just have a lot of miles on it

welders turn 20 years old in a weekend,make sure and buy what can be serviced for years to come Miller is good, make sure it is at least 220 v and has a cooling fan

the reason gears grind is because the gears are spinning too fast to allow the shift sleeve to engage the gear, there are a couple reasons for what you have the very first thing I would check is that your clutch is fully disengaged, because that will make the input shaft spin, clucth 'drag'...

I preffer to be just one of the guys >;o0

the origin of vent for the gas tank starts at the charcoal canister, the problem was fuel would leak through the lines in the event that the car rolled over in an accident so the engineers had to place a one way /rollover valve in the line between the gas tank and the canister so fuel would not...

it wont matter, if the pin is located higher towards the rings, the length of the skirt wont matter, you would need a longer rod because the crank is the same stroke

doesnt sound right, you say the rods are the same but the piston pin location is higher, well the deck hiegth would have to be shorter in the EVO block, but from my experience, location the piston pin higher allows you the use a longer rod and increase the rod ratio, why would you relocate the...

hincher, its bill hincher that builds the housings >;o)

the Starion came with a wide block bolt pattern, the two lower bolts are an inch wider then the 4G63 narrow block, you have to measure them uup before the swap, RWD stuff has all been done at www.projectzeroG

something gets lost in the modern engine and its called 'rebuilt' cutting cranks and boring blocks is for small block Chevy's its the old way of doing things the modern engine is not built to be bored the engines are built with a new hardness prosess called 'true flex' harding you cant...

the first gen is a direct bolt for the second gen, the flywheels come in AWD or FWD in either 7 or 6 bolt patterns , so pay attention to that and the inlet ports are much larger in the first gen, it may cause you to change ECU's for different injecters

the 4G64 has to be a 'narrow' block measure across the two lower bellhousing bolts in the block, it should come out to 12 1/2 inch a wide block is more like 13 1/2 inch If it is a narrow block its a direct bolt up, there is am AWD flywheel ( 270mm diameter) and a FWD flywheel ( 280mm...

every pilot must understand the relationship between air temp and air density, you can find very detailed charts that give you exact numbers at any flying outlet

when you have an electiral mystery after changing an engine, go back and pay attention to all the ground wires, you cannot ground the engine to the frame in too many places >;o) and yes the starter will work without a good engine ground

the reason for the EGR is to re route some exhaust gases into the intake system to cool down the combustion chamber ( thats right, cool down) the only time the EGR is activated is when the vehicle is in a light load/ cruise condition at partial throttle ( extra lean conditions) it is...

could be a spring out of the disc lodged into the fricton surface, sometime they come apart

the AWD flywheels are 270 mm in diameter and the FWD flywheel is 280mm but it doesnt matter because the bellhousing dictates where the starter gear contacts the flywheel, so you dont have to worry about that there are 3 things to understand about the starter the seliniod is a heavy...

yeah, I would bet on a bad seal in the turbo or a plugged oil return line to the pan

you can spend a little and waste it all or you can spend a lot and waste a little >;o)what good does it do to spend your money and time replacing the motor with another used motor that you dont know if it will blow a timing belt next weekfix what you have and learn about the work...

you dont filter the material with a catch can, it seperates solids from gasses, the gasses are sent into the intake manifold to be burned with the fuel and the seperated oil is returned to the crankcase, the weight of the oil will allow the seperation, the baffle wont allow crankcase pressure to...

they break from time to time, I have seen them put in doubled up but I dont think thats a good idea, if your stock, you should be fine with an OEM flexplate It would require the pump to lock up to hold the torque converter, then you would be into trans repairs

I did

with a catch can, pressure is pushed out of the valve cover into the top of the catch can, then oil should seperate in the catch can and the solid oil should return to the oil pan, PCV valve at the top yes and a baffle in the center but no breather

okay, IF you really had abnormal high oil pressure it would be because the pressure relief valve in the oil pump was stuck, IF that was stuck, it would blow the oil seal out at the oil filter ( trust me) Oil pumps are dumb, they just keep making pressure, no matter what the engine speed, so...

the flexplates are just a 'star' shaped plate on the 4G series, if you need one built let me know but you would have to make a lot of power to break one I had to build one for the 6G72 RWD swap and I used a commercial grade plate that can be shaped

battery voltage is always present at the large lug on the starter seliniod , somehow, you have bypassed the seliniod and wired directly to the starter, so you have a crossed wire at the starter seliniod

test your fuel pressure, make sure the ECU didnt shut down the fuel pump

a locked brake pedal will not be the result of a disconnected vacuum line, something mechanical is wrong

valve seals can be misleading, check all the oil return holes in the head and block, if the oil is pushed into the head and it cant return to the oil pan, it is forced into the valve guides and if you let it sit over night, all the oil drians from the head into the valve guides instead of the...

brakes are the source of heat, your forward motion is converted to heat through the brake disc's If you are really worried about it, you can buy a tape that turns colors at different temps so you can read how hard your wheels are working, try a road race outlet for information

do not use the torch, it ruins the wheel bearings, sometimes you can hit the nut on the side and loosen it, but its cheaper to split the nut than to heat the nut and ruin the bearings

those Honda's are terrible, sometimes I can raise the air pressure at the compresser to 150lbs and the impact will take it off but we had to get a 1 inch drive bar to remove the crank bolt

its not bent, the cam gear came loose and the cam end is bad now, you need to replace the cam as well as the gear so it doesnt re occur