Check this out… https://www.angelfire.com/il2/freestyle/turboconversion.html Or https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/installing-a-turbo-4g63-into-an-nt-4g63.48231/Yes

Can I use just a check valve in place of the PCV or do I have to have the PCV valve installed with the check valve. I think I know the answer but just double checking.

Interested in this. Just got mine back together. 6 bolt non turbo block, so no squirters and no balance shafts. .0030 on the mains and .025 on the rods. Newish stock straight cut gear pump. I’m still running conventional oil but 20w-50 and the oil port teardrop mod is done on the head he. I...

Pilot bushing for the crank. Bolts for the TC to flex plate.

Moar

Some more pics of getting all the loose ends together

I don’t know the part number but 99.9% sure they’re discontinued, but I talked to dsm 3D creations at the shootout and I believe they are working or possibly have already some 3D printed

Look on here OP for cat backs. They take a little fab but it’s 90% the way there. Different sizes and materials as well https://www.trubendz.com/categories/tubing-kits/mitsubishi/90-94-mitsubishi-eclipse.html

I think the first F&F movie shot dsm’s into the stratosphere. They were easy to make fast, plentiful, and cheap. But that came with people that didn’t love the platform and couldn’t afford to correctly mod the cars. So you had a lot of cars ended up being junked, parted out. That led to...

The former owner had put some led fog lights and a light bar on. I took all that off and also fixed the bottom of the bumper cover where it attached to the bottom of the car. Buncha broken bolts.

So got it in and then started the long process of buttoning everything up.

Kentucky. I was in Orlando 2weeks ago😲

Making progress

They’re sitting in my basement right now. lol

While the engine was being built I worked on the interior on and off. Here’s what I started with.

In she goes!

Ok so motors ready to go in, put the new clutch in along with a new TOB, clutch fork, and pivot ball. Also had stock turbo flywheel re ground at the machine shop.

The downpipe I fabbed up was pointed completely in the wrong direction,lol. So with limited options I got a 2g AWD downpipe and made it fit. With very little effort I might add. The cat back came from a company called Tru Bendz. You could get a 1g fwd exhaust from 2” to 3” in SS or...

Anybody ever had trouble with spring seats not wanting to come out? Got them all out but 6 using a magnet. But the six that are left I can’t budge.

Also adding this^^^ the transmission cooler is something you probably want to hang onto. Heat is the number one enemy of an auto tranny

One thing I’ve been dreading since the start is the exhaust. If I stayed n/t I had to redo at least the down pipe cause it fell apart. If I went turbo I’d need an entire new exhaust. And 1g turbo exhaust even new aren’t easy to find nowadays. First thing I thought is that I could build at least...

Most of them are part of the emissions system. I’m only familiar with the 1g but the ones you’ll want to keep are your fpr, wastegate, bov, the fat line for your brake booster and the breathers for your valve cover. 2g might be slightly different

Get with Steve Miller https://autoimportskannapolis.com/ About the head. Good chance he has at least a core. Good guy and good prices On FB, kannapolis auto parts. You can message him on there.

The power steering pump had been leaking and a mess. So I cleaned it up and rebuilt it. I ran out of shop towels so had to steal some paper towels from the kitchen. lol

A buddy of mine had a spare 92 fwd turbo transmission that he was pretty sure worked that he sold to me for cheap. So cleaned it up

I had ordered a 2g exhaust mani, a 14b, stock IC and pipes, stock turbo intake and all the oil and coolant lines. I already had a 1g o2 housing. I ported the inlet of the waste gate in the turbine housing a bit to make sureI wouldn’t get any boost creep. I was going to run a bigger full exhaust...

K so, new timing belt, timing belt covers on, valve cover, turbo thermo housing, cas and turbo water pipe. The water pipe had to modded be causing I was going to keep the N/T oil filter housing so I had to block of the coolant port same on the thermo housing. Also the IM with a homemade egr...

All emissions stuff, power steering, cruise control

This and climb in the hatch. There’s YouTube videos also on how to free up the lock.

Thanks man! Works like a charm

Pull out your ecu and check the isc drivers. If they’re damaged the isc won’t work properly.Here’s what they look like

What gets you is when you have multiple items coming from different warehouses. If everything is coming from one it’s not bad.

I would love this. I’ve got a stockish fwd 1g. I’d like to do some mild mods but don’t really want to go ecmlink. I’m running a stock ecu with a socketed eprom and would love to able to burn my own chips as I mod. But I know next to nothing about this, hardware, software, what it takes, but...

I like these out of the ordinary resto’s. I’ll be following👍

You have to take it off or at least that’s easier. Lol. Lift it with the hoist, so you can get the engine stand mount off and then put the housing on it and then put it back in the stand.Thanks for that tip about the cams. I keep that in mind. 👍

Is this something that wasn’t leaking before, or did you just put something back together?

Then came time for the head. I had a set of manual trans turbo cams that were in good shape so they went in. Also I had a spare set of arp head studs so got used as well. A stock composite head gasket sealed it all up.

Then came the the rear main housing with new seal, a new turbo oil pan, timing brackets.

I got a used oem oil pump with straight cut gears from a short block I bought. It was pretty rough and barely in spec, so cleaned it up, installed new seals and put it on

Ok. So new pistons on the rods, and everything cleaned up. Time to start putting this thing together. The bearing clearances all ended up being a little wide as well as the ring gaps.

Did you bleed the lifters down before installation? If so they’re gonna tick until they pump up. Normally it take going for a short drive before they quiet down.

It wasn’t the cams themselves, it was the where they rode in the head, the cam bearing surface I guess? I don’t think I do. I tried to remember to snap as many pics as I could but sometimes just got too caught up in working on it. I read quite a bit about it. If you search on the forums you...

Where the cams rode in the head got a little chewed up. I just hit them with some fine sand paper and scotch brite pads to knock down the high spots. Then cleaned up the valves, rocker arms and springs, got a new set of hla’s and valves seals, did the oil port mod, fixed a couple stripped bolt...

I stripped the head down and took the pressure washer and degeaser to it. Took out all the oil galley plugs and cleaned the oil galleys with brushes.

I miss wrote that, I meant the the pistons not the rods. I’m not sure if junk had got between the pin and the piston or what but they weren’t moving freely. The pins have to pressed out of the rods.

Very nice and detailed👍

Yes you can de-rust and paint.

The head was a mess. You can see in the pics a few of the oil galleys were completely blocked.