Would definitely be interested, but then you will have to be willing to ship overseas!

Torque Solutions started making some: http://www.torquesolution.com/category-s/1180.htmBut I havn't read anything about them yet, and don't know for which application they have them (auto/manual, fwd/awd); on the website it's marked that they're only AWD which seems weird because I thought the...

And so do the current Manley and Scatt h-beams.I wasn't aware of any changes made to these rods, but that might be the answer to the mistery. The seller seemed convinced they were Manley rods. :hmm:

Do they happen to look like the picture below?I have the above set that I cannot identify. They look like offers of Saenz rods on eBay, but one can never be sure with pictures on eBay as they often do not represent the actual items... :|Ebay link: Saenz 4G63 Rods

Looks good, but... where's the FWD love? :thumb: :pray:

Listen to the man, get rid of those inferior quality valves (so stamped as "made in 'Japan' ") or you will regret it.Result of stock boost level on a t25:Can you read what it says on the valve? :p

Is this the new standard for fittings setup (and used fluid level), or will you offer variations on the design?Is this just to prevent (the before used inlet-) filters from clogging up? Or is this also more effective in filtering the air?Nice to see that you are still improving on an...

How can you ever get sick from looking at Eclipses? :p Unless they have been raped with fiberglass... :D ;)For anyone looking, you can also use this link to his profile: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/486477/1997-mitsubishi-eclipse

Been done before. Props go to Dragan from the Netherlands (check his car and bigger pictures out on cardomain, member id: dutcheclipse).

Actually it was... But with the steering wheel still on the left side, so it wasn't very popular.

Still sticking with the DSM on the side though? Or did we lose another soul to the Nissans...? :p

For anybody looking for a bit more information on the Kiggly HLA regulator, here are my questions and the answers that Kevin provided in great detail! :rocks:And follow-up questions from me, followed by the answer from Kevin - Kiggly Racing:There you have it, some extra information...

Which is exactly what I did. So for anybody looking for a bit more information on the Kiggly HLA regulator, here are my questions and the answers that Kevin provided in great detail! :rocks:And follow-up questions from me, followed by the answer from Kevin - Kiggly Racing:There you...

Usually an ignition problem. When I had it, it turned out to be the spark plug wires which we're arcing. After replacing those the problems went away.I would check: spark plugs, then wires, then the coil-pack. Hope that helps any.

They did this one too in the Think UK - anti speeding commercials: YouTube - Think UK - Road Safety AdBut I agree, the fact remains that a car is a dangerous object, no matter what speed it is going. What we can do is try to minimize the risk of danger to ourselfs and others.

Actually a big part of the movies in there (and I mean the acted ones, where they zoom in on the victoms at the moment of or just after the impact) are save driving commercials from the United Kingdom. I will assume those are payed for by the government. In the Netherlands we had a simmilar set...

Actually they were AXIS S7's (in other countries known as Lenso S7's).Also in the movie there was no splitter or little foglights mounted on the front of the car.

That, however, is excluding VAT!

The flexpipe is part of the downpipe which is pre-cat, so a catback will not replace this. :aha:A header would replace this and can make the system louder aswell.. I wouldn't know a cheap one though...

This is one of the few things I would find a usefull addition for my setup!

There are two versions of the Megan Downpipe for the 2G GS-T: Both have a (almost) 2,5 inch inlet, but the outlet differs. The original version has a (big bigger than) 2,5 inch outlet and there is a 'V2' that has a 3 inch outlet! (I got the wrong one delivered, which meant hacking the smaller...

Actually, there are a few Eclipses that already finished laps at the Nurburgring. In our group we've only had one that leaked out all it's powersteering fluid, one that started overheating, one that broke a bolt in the exhaust manifold etc. etc. etc. :p BUT they finished the lap! :hellyeah...

The back and front bars are almost the same. Both are just bolted down with four bolts through the metal brackets, which can be reached from underneath the car.

Yes, we should all praise the new member/lurker for using the search button. :D

I've been living in Europe all my life and I've never heard of that rule... :p We do have rules on safety jackets and warning signals. And in Germany first-aid-kits and wintertires when freezing are mandatory..But I do agree that it should be mandatory to have a fire extinguisher in the car...

Nice catch! If you will be getting the bigger plates, let us know if it helped any for the rigidity! :thumb:

Well putting a catch can inbetween the PCV-valve and the intake manifold, will keep the blowbyoil out of the intake manifold and your head (so less buildup on your valves), which is not a bad thing. Putting a catch can inbetween the valve cover and your intake pipe however, is the way to keep...

Yes, they have; inbetween the inner bolts of the rear lower arms.DC-Sports used to have a tie-bar. Tanabe still have one. They call it an underbrace though.I have heared the same about our cars being braced well enough from the factory. And to be honest, I did not notice any improvement...

The foglight symbol is actually a REAR fog lights symbol (the stripes are horizontal instead of on a downslope and they face right in stead of left), as found on European and Japanese Eclipses. And since mine is one of those it does light up when I turn the rear fog lights on... :D :p On...

Couldn't be any clearer; desciption and picture! :applause: :thumb:I actually have never filled this reservoir, but it is always full; since the cap has a airhole in it, when the rail overflows (everytime we have one of the famous dutch rain storms :p) the reservoir is automatically filled...

You mean this thread?: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/356765-hta68-evo-iii-16g-pics.htmlVery impressed by the results. Still do not fully understand why people do not seem to like the HTA68 turbo... :confused: Seems like a perfect turbo for a daily driver to me...

With an almost stock car I can't count it as a beast, but with the 3" turboback, full fuel upgrades, FM intercooler and bigger turbo being put on before the spring it should get the car to that status..... but I alrready think it's an awesome car to drive and wouldn't trade it in for...

When one of the lower arm balljoints went out it started to make a metal grinding noise aswell. Not as consistent as how it sounds on this video though.

Agreed, if you want to save some money by going to that kind of stores, you better be prepared to do some homework before you order the parts. :p

I love that intercooler bracket! :thumb: LOL The intercooler itself looks nice too though.. ;)

Isn't the tank supposed to be under pressure (hence the special fuel tank cap)? I do believe there are some rubber vacuum lines in the charcoal canister system. Couldn't it then be that the pressure is leaking thrue one of those lines?(I didn't have hissing, but I did have a strong fuel fume...

I believe he meant that even if you set the turbo on the stock boost setting to not run out of fuel, you might get boostcreep and still run out of fuel because of it.

That might be because you have a New Member/Lurker status... :sosad:

The MAS plug can be found as the green dot in this always usefull virtual tour of the 2G engine bay: http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/aircan.htm

The zip ties can deffinately be a life saver! They held my bumper on after losing bolts, fixed vacuumhoses that kept getting loose, kept my bov from poping out of the crappy stock hose and clamp... etc... :DAnd don't forget some good spirit and nice tunes so that you actually enjoy the...

Looked like a very clean 2GSX... :( Hope you get enough from the insurance company to find a similar one.

I believe the D31A would be the N/T (nonturbo?), so the RS and GS. The GS-T would then be the D32A. And the European GS with 4G63 non-turbo will be found as a D32 aswell.

It's a bolt-on mod. Here is an explanation for the 1G BOV, but the installation of the Greddy one with the bolt-on flange is exactly the same:Alex's BOV VFAQ

No, you need a vacuum inside the system. Which will suck the coolant back thrue the pipe as long as it is submerged in coolant in the overflow can.

I believe he is talking about a tie-bar or so called underbrace, and not a swaybar. He could look up 'Tanabe Sustec UnderBrace' thoug.

Good to hear Doggo, you know us DSM'ers need a constant suply of affordable ISC's ... :p;)

I use the Tokico and Eibach Pro combo.But I'm saving up for the JIC Magic kit from RRE. Just to get better track times, but hopefully it will improve the comfort of the suspension aswell, as there is a lack of suspension travel for normal road driving with the above mentioned combo...

Hey jeffrey,This sounds more like a problem with your ISC not working properly. The reason it seems to be a power issue, could simply be that when more power is required extra stress is put on the idling engine. The function of the ISC is to keep the idle steady even with differant stress...

I had the exact same problem, but only found out because the temp gauge would start rising drastically due to airlock in the coolant system. When having the engine running with the radiator cap taken off, there was a clear constant flow of airbubbles in the coolantstream. This was a clear sign...

You're just playing it safe by buying an original B&M shifter. Everybody can decide for themselves if they want to risk it for the price differance. The B&M shifter is a very nice piece though, but only really comes to its right if combined with the Symborski shifter kit! :thumb: