I've seen it before, and thought I bookmarked it, but I guess not. Looking for a pic of the 2GB front bumper on a blue Talon that was modified to have a bigger opening. Was all fiberglassed to make it look OEM again, just a lot taller of a mouth on it. Looked great.Anybody know which thread...

I can't get this plate off the back of my compressor cover:RTVed on there, I've tried getting under it on the edge to pry up but it's a no go, also tried from the inside with a rag around a screwdriver and the twist method, after getting it nice and hot with the heatgun, still no budge...

I tried to add this to the tech article written by canucatchdis here:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/266472-socketing-eprom-ecu.htmlBut I'm not able to, so I thought I'd post it up here, maybe it can be put there if it's deemed useful enough.Before you start desoldering...

So I've searched and read on the DSMlink website about changing the wires, but then also having to use the "invert CAS" option in the program.I've got an eprom ECU sitting here that was sold to me as "working" but I'd like to test it in my '97 to see if it works before I get to socketing it...

Well the title says it all.. haynes fails me again.. says to tighten them to the specs in the chapter.. but then doesn't have any.. only has rear hub to knucle specs... I know someone out there with a shop manual is willing to help me out :thumb:

Slowly the whole car is being converted from ugmo incandescents to LEDs.The side markers on the front bumper as stock only act as running lights.. no blinking with the signals. I wanted to change this too, so I rigged up a little regulated circuit to deliver a constant voltage to the LEDs...

The stock dust boot is pretty junk pile.. and too short, I found these boots at napa, $22 each CAD.Just thought I'd share for anyone who wants some nice boots on their setup, come with a bump stop too, originally it's stuck in the top of the boot as shown, just pull it out and cut off the wide...

Anybody notice this? on one side of the springs on the GC coilovers, the end of the spring is welded to the next coil down, it's only like this on one side though, not both.. yet there is no specification of which way the spring should sit..The way they came in the box is with the non...

My car has 98,000km, or ~60,000 original miles.one of my inner tie rod ends is totally fooked.. so I'm going to replace them.. not cheap! I just called, $80 each...Anyway.. I'm just wondering.. if I should do the outers at the same time? due for it soon maybe? ..since I have to get an...

I inspected the front motor mount.. I just had it off a while ago, looks fine... so I just spent about an hour pulling out that SOB rear mount to check it out.. looks fine to me too, I don't understand? I'm sure that's what my problem would have been..What else could it be? U-joints or...

Haynes doesn't list the torque specs for the large crossmember running under the tranny (with the tranny mount on it) nor does it list the specs for the gusset with the 5 bolts also taken out when removing the tranny.. doesn't list the transfer case specs either but I searched and found those...

So I bought this car just over a year ago and I changed the timing belt with all oils seals on the front of the engine, the clutch, flywheel, all supporting stuff.. BG in the tranny, heavy shock in the t-case and rear end. I just threw on a set of 235/45/17 proxies and now I just got this in...

I've searched around on here and google but I can't find how much the stock evo 8 enkei wheels weigh...I was hoping enkei would provide a specs page for their OEM wheels, but I can't find one.. that'd be even better, but I'd definitly like to know how much they weigh.

I had another thread going a while ago, now I have a lot more narrowed down and I've done some fender rolling, yet still.. the rub.I'm on 17x8 38mm offset rims with 235/45/17 rubber.originally I was rubbing on the front and the rear fenders.. I rented a fender rolling tool and fixed all...

This is a How-to that describes a way you can totally clean and polish your tranny in about 3-4 hours, this is not a compete polishing job, it involves no sanding or removing of any of casting or pitting marks, this is simply to clean the tranny in a very detailed way and make it nice and shiny...

At the moment I have eibach sportline springs on tokico blue shocks, and it's way too low, I think I got some on the low spring rate side.. On the front I have to cram my 1 finger in to get it to fit between the fender and the tire, and I can only get to 1 knuckle.. This can't be right can it...

after an absurd amount of work I've finally completed them... the tranny pull had nothing on this job, I had no idea what I was getting myself into.. but now it's all worth it.I started by stripping off all the enkei factory silver powder coating, 6x11$ cans of paint stripper later it was...

The seal had gone in my lightbar on the spoiler, I could see some corrosion in there and it worked intermittently.. and the LEDs that did work, when they worked, weren't very bright..The solution was 35 new 2.1V 3500MCD 30degree LEDs, not super brights but decent ones.. with a wider viewing...

I'm getting a thump noise when I let off the throttle.. I have to kind of want to make it do it though.. just get it barely into boost and lift right off the gas, make the car throw forward kind of.. and I get a thump...I have 2 theories here, one of them is that my rear motor mount is shot...

I searched and found nothing surprisingly.. I can't seem to get any info on the 2G shifter cable adjustment.. or if it even has any.. I have the shifter mount bushings and under hood bushings.. they made it more noticable to me that the (sorry for my terminology) side to side cable (select...

anyone know? I couldn't find it in CAPS either.. mine dropped back in behind the tranny (I think, hopefully not in the tranny) and even after removing the tranny I can't find the damn thing anywhere.. I hate not finding bolts that are somewhere in the engine compartment.. I'll try some more but...

I've got my tranny out right now and I've got a new fuel filter sitting here, so now would be a great time to change it out, only thing is I just thought of this now and I can't turn the car on to relieve the fuel pressure, I was thinking I'd just crack the banjo bolt and hold a rag there to let...

I bought a new OEM one, my tranny is out right now, but I don't see it? it's behine the collar I guess? how do I change it? Thanks.

I hate jacking up my car.. it's always the most stressful time of any car work for me.. that probably sounds stupid, but I'm always so paranoid about it.Today I was jacking up the front end by the crossmember under the rad with a trolly jack and a 4x4 chunk of wood to get some more height...

reading my haynes manual I see that GL-4 Hypoid is recomended for the transfer case and GL-5 for the rear end, yet on the fluid faq on vfaq it says that you can use GL-4 or 5 for the transfer case.. I've already got some BG synchroshift for the tranny, and I'm kinda stuck here as to what I...

so I've read my haynes, vfaq, and logic's article in the tech section here..1st question: In logic's article he says you can use the 1/2" drive in the crank pully to hold the engine still while you take off the flywheel bolts, now I just had my crank pully off not long ago when I did the...

Looking around in mitsubishi CAPS I noticed that there is an M/T oil filter (MD738053)I was under the impression only the auto trannies had filters to change.. is this M/T filter inside the tranny and only changed during a rebuild?I searched and found a couple people saying the M/T has...

I'm trying to get the part numbers for the axle seals and I just can't seem to find them for the life of me... so far I've got...MD719710 - OIL SEAL, M/T CASE FRMD723202 - OIL SEAL, M/T CTR DIFMD707184 - OIL SEAL, T/M FR DIFFMD741818 - OIL SEAL, M/T INPUT SAnd I've clicked on every...

I need to find the part number for front wheel bearing/hub assembly for my '97 TSi AWD so I downloaded Mitsubishi CAPS and I'm having a bit of trouble understanding it...when I bring up the window for the wheel bearing I get this:9401.1 to 9901.2____________________...

original clutch with ~60k miles started slipping before I left to go to work.. as soon as I get back in another couple weeks I want to replace everything to do with the clutch... so far here's what I've got jotted down and some stuff I haven't decided over yet... please let me know if I'm...

Right now I have a '97 eagle talon TSi AWD with 95,000km (59,000miles) Pretty stock but I've got a few parts ready and more coming for spring and summer installs. (including CFDF clutch.. I hate that loose goose stocker.. it's pedal's been pumped too many times.) I've done some painting in...

so I posted these in the old thread where I asked about changing the colour, but it died, and I don't think anybody got to see... so here it is.. I think it looks pretty good, did it with duplucolour metalcast.http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m203/shaft0/HPIM0903.jpg...

so, I'm not a big fan of the purple top on the GReddy S, it's pretty ugly looking, I was thinking of taking off the top and refinishing it with some of the blue anodized paint you can buy, anybody done this or have some pics of what the anodized paint looks like on a well done job? Thanks...

I searched around and even though I'm sure this has been done I couldn't find any info because there's so much CRAP about the pcv amongst the info... I just want to retain all of my stock goodness without dirtying anything up, I already have the fuel filter catch on on the breather to the...

well, I hate Napa, the idiots at my local Napa can't get anything right, I won't explain the whole story I will just say this.. the CV boot that I finally ended up with doesn't fit very well, the CV clamp I have from Napa broke, and grease spattered, I just changed this boot out not long ago...

I have my valve cover off, doing a bunch of crap.. so I got a new PCV valvle, the local parts place had a fram brand valve.. I took it home and blew on either side.. air goes out easily as it should, and when blowing on the other side it does block most of the flow.. but if I blow hard a lot...

well the title says it... vfaq recommends to use a light coat of RTV around the the outside of the o-ring and leave it in the pump over night, I did that.. I just took off the old pump (I drained the block and the rad, another quart of coolant poured out though when I took it off) anyway, the...

so haynes made it out like if I stick the screw driver in the back of the block that I could remove the oil pump sprocket (which worked fine) and the balanance sprocket... the balance sprocket just freely spins though, I dunno how to remove it.. I wanna replace the seal behind it.. the belt is...

yeah, pretty weird, I just had to pull some handy work to make a converter so I could plug a regular headphone jack into my cellphone for MP3 playing in the car (why don't they sell them? bastards).. everything works great, but I noticed while doing this that when I put the deck on the AUX...

I have a '97 TSi AWD, CEL code came up, no difference in the car, haven't bought a logger yet and I wanna see what the code is, I tried doing the keydance and it doesn't seem to work? I've tried on-off-on-off-on hitting the button on the turbo timer to turn it off every time I flicked the key...

I've got all OEM parts coming to replace my T-belt, including a new crank pully and all new seals for the front of the engine, this includescamshaft sealsFront Cover (oil pump case) GasketBalance Shaft SealOil Pump SealTiming Cover SealOil Filter Bracket GasketFront...

These rims were on the car when I bought it.. I don't know which model they are and can't seem to find them online, they must be quite an older model.. I just want to know so I can see how much they weigh, they look light, but looks can be deceiving...

so I'm changing my driver side inner CV boot, I read on vfaq that I just unbolt the strut from the steering knuckle and I can swing it outa the way to get the axle out, sweet... well.. the pic on vfaq looks totally different than my '97TSi, vfaq has 2 bolts, wheras my car has 1 bolt with a...

not the flat part with the holes for the wheel studs, just the step from the rotor surface.. especially in the back, it's a big step, and it's starting to look a little ugly, never heard of doing this before, dont' see why it would cause a problem, just thought I'd check in before going ahead.

Quote from www.VFaq.com "NOTE that if you are replacing the balance belt tensioner pulley, there is a lip on this pulley - on 95s, the lip goes on the inside, towards the block. 97-up, possibly 96-up, have a different pulley with a smaller lip, their pulley installs with the lip on the outside."...

I bought the car ('97 AWD) with this camber kit on it, the bushings are worn and when I wiggle the wheel it moves quite a bit where the control arm connects to the strut mount (both sides) I don't know which kit this is, I've looked around but can't effectively identify it, I'm wondering if I...