Boost leak test and fix all leaks. Get your injectors and a tune asap. cruise and idle should be around 14.7-15AFR WOT should be 11.0-11.5AFR, a little bit lower (rich is ok). Anything leaner then that is very dangerous.

Definitely post a picture.Make sure the vacuum lines running to your blow off valve and wastegate have they're own separate boost/vac sources. Any "tees" is unacceptable.

:thumb: +1, sick 8 man. Driving both cars now, and even when i had my 1G...when I hop in the rx8 it takes a lot more finesse to drive properly. I love the crisp handling and attributes about the car.

I ain't madatcha. :DI agree, though...narrowbands are so inaccurate to begin with.

Well that was informative.:thumb: The OP clearly needs to do some tuning, starting off looking at the voltage while tuning is a small step in tuning. Combined with looking at knock, and timing - it is a primitive way to get his car dialed in to an extent.Thanks for clearing this up Steve...

True, but if your Air fuel ratio is good then you don't need to worry.Fuel trims are adjusted according to what the global fuel table is set at...which is stupid rich factory wise.What fuel pump are you running? Is it re-wired?

Dont worry so much about you're fuel trims. Tune with your wideband once you get it hooked up, otherwise tune off of O2 sensor voltage. Your fuel trims will never be happy with OEM fuel tables.And honestly, if the car runs good - who cares what your fuel trims are at!?

Make sure the starter has a clean contact to the bell housing. There is also a ground wire that runs to the bellhousing..Make sure that is clean as well. Double check you're connection on the back of the starter too.

You're hilarious that the only constructive thing you can pick from my post is a minor typo. ROFLThe early RX8 had reliability issues, I agree 100% If you're smart you get things warrantied, like me.You and your family friends experienced one, and formed your opinion about it - AWESOME FOR...

Only one way to find out! I'm sure it's possible but a PITA. Just make sure you disconnect your battery before welding, and have a magnet handy in case you drop the flapper!Ahh, gotcha. I'd assume that's dependent on the ball and spring however. IIRC you can order replacement ones.

Thank you!:thumb:Thanks, I appreciate it. Start a different thread for trash talk. I'll chime in. :D I don't need to prove anything to anyone.Side note. I just picked up a beater DD 91 240SX 5spd. Can you guys tell I don't discriminate againist imports?ROFL I'll keep this thread clean of...

I wish, but they're so expensive and the replicas don't fit the greatest. Makes the car look amazing though I agree.Yeah, it's stupid comments like this that I was talking about. Your dumb. Do you know what my 1G was like? No. Does my 1G or any 2G come with all the creature comforts my...

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Your warned. Keep your negative comments about the RX8 out of my threads. Opinions are like A--holes.So I've been out of the forum for a while getting myself back on track and recently switching professions. Lexus Tech ---> Welder. In my time...

Your edit makes it sound like an injector is hanging open and bleeding off pressure.It should hold residual pressure for a while. Having extended crank issues hey?I'd check all lines and connections, make sure nothing is leaking though. If no leaks are evident, look at the rail and injectors...

Yes, I think I just used a grinder and cut-off wheel. That and a nice spot weld with a MIG gun is sufficient. Otherwise you could always tap a bolt in the left over hole.I ran a recirc'd O2 housing and I loved it. When the external gate opens you hear a nice deeper refined turbo grumble from...

Any time I wanted to shut someone up, I ran my tank till the fuel light came on, tossed in 5 gallons of 110, turned up the boost to 26psi and let they're jaws drop at the 15psi stutterbox.Gotta do a little fine tuning to get her perfect though. And....you need those pesky supporting mods.

I sold mine for $160 or $170.I like to help people out though, not get rich off of used parts.

Buy a rotary. The hate increases 10 fold.It's slow. I don't care. It's stupid engineering. It's cause you don't understand it. It doesn't make any torque. Give me a turbo, I'll make a 18G torque curve with a 35R. It's unreliable. You make one. Then when you think you've perfected it to 80%...

I don't know what you guys are talking about. I've run 28psi on my Hallman boost controller and I had a 14.7psi wastegate spring. Open it up and clean it.Boost leak test. Seafoam to find any exhaust leaks.Search on what causes/IS boost creep. If it bugs you that much, you don't wanna do...

Its the short route, and best bang for your buck.Hell, if you don't plan on going bigger then a 16G, just upgrade all your hard piping and run a intercooler sprayer. Though I suppose the cost might be only a couple bucks less.

I'd take apart the FPR and clean it. Sounds like the diaphragm is stuck or leaking.

Use paragraphs and proper punctuation, my head hurts.First off. Do a boost leak test.The car will run like shit or not at all with a faulty coolant temp sensor. The car will stay in limp mode with a bad knock sensor. ongreenperformance sells them.When you upgrade to the 2G MAF, 550cc...

If there are no lines on the back, then don't worry about those.You want a single untouched vacuum line to your BOV. A single untouched line to your wastegate. And a line running to your FPR (this you can tap your boost gauge into or whatever) Cap or loop the lines on the throttle body, or use...

Standard ngk copper plugs gapped at .028"NO exceptions!

Quit posting nonsense. You need a AFPR to run the walbro 255. Lurk and do your homework before you give advice. He mentioned a 4 layer exhaust manifold gasket and your telling him what headgasket to run. :ohdamn:OP, invest in a nice pump gas turbo. The E316G is fun but harder to tune for pump...

Mazda really pushed the release early. A lot of 04-05s had tons of problems because of this. A big part was the oil metering pump not supplying sufficient oil to keep things lubricated. Combine that with shitty coils that go bad and cause misfires - you're more likely to get detonation. Now you...

Was it an automatic? Some dealers are shady, it's only a matter of time for when the renesis blows up.See I heard rumors that the dyno jet I got on was out of calibration...but a turbo TC put down 275hp and 280tq which is pretty typical of the setup he was running.I remember when i first...

Mines and 05 at 66k and yeah its out of factory 5/50 warranty, but like I said they warranty the engine for 8 years/100k miles. It should be interesting to see what my dyno #s look like with the new engine.If you're on the market for an rx8, get the history on the vehicle, plugs and coils are...

The rx8 is my new DD. I've established a lot of help on this forum. Thanks buddy. I didn't know you were a moderator.It's obvious some people can only show "respect" for DSMs. At least I'm open minded.

Well, I always knew my rx8 was slow in the straight line. So i got curious what it put down to the rear wheels after being neck and neck with a new civic SI. Now that the weather is better I brang it to the dyno to put down a pathetic 155hp and 118tq.I knew something was wrong. Did a...

Shitty!Get out of the money pit while you still can!

Does that have an LS2 in it?I'll take the coils off your hands if so. PM me!

Understandable.

What track are you running that you need to swap pads at the paddock? Unless you start the event at 4-5mm and perfectly time a pitstop when you need to replace them?Most part stores will cut rotors for you, thing is I don't know if I'd trust 95% of the idiots behind the counter though. I'm...

Sorry, that is incorrect information.Theoretically, you should always machine your rotors to have a fresh smooth finish to bed in new pads. The cross hatching is what aids in bedding the pads properly.Pad "slapping" is horrible - no matter what pads you ran/ or are going to run.I've never...

Hawk HPS pads, great street pads, with the ability to perform at the track.Who's gonna be peeking at your brake lines? It's more for performance then looks. I could care less how they look, they're going to get dirty anyway. You pretty much stated your only two options for brake lines. OEM -...

A worn shift fork is highly unlikely to cause popping out of gear.

Hmm, informative.Good to hear you go it figured out.

The key springs for the 1st gear synchronize hub are worn and result in popping out of gear.Starting out in second is okay - you'll eventually wear out your clutch faster.Please work on your sentence structure, As I had to read that a few times to understand you.

You might as well buy a new clutch if you haven't replaced it recently. Make sure to use an OEM throw out bearing. They're the best period.If you remove the nest of intercooler piping, vacuum lines, etc. You can pull the inspection cover plug on top of the bellhousing and shine a light in...

A narrowband and the stock coolant temperature gauge are completely useless in tuning or supplying ANY accurate information.Fix any vacuum leaks if you suspect them. Ditch the narrowband. - FYI cruise and idle the gauge and reading on your datalogger will sweep rich/lean(or high/low voltage...

Who cares about an estimate. Tune off your wideband.I logged my AFR via the EGR input + AEM UEGO 5v output and it was inaccurate.

Check the fluid level, Otherwise you clutch disc packs are fried. You'd need to rebuild the transmission to fix it.

Check all wiring by the ignition, it sounds like something is shorting out and keeping the ignition in "crank" position.You can bypass the clutch by disconnecting the connector by the clutch pedal. It's probably disconnected.

Everything should sit flush. Maybe the napa kit sucks, I haven't tried them so I don't know.Here's how they should sit on the injectors.And how they should sit in the head.(Not a DSM but you get the idea, and it shows what a leaking injector looks like in the first pic). Also in the first...

How much boost are you attempting to run on a stock fuel system?

Boost leak test. That isn't a sensor LOL.

So what was it?

Holy crap, your lucky that thing didn't fall off the dyno!Look at the position of the wheel, it should be directly on the top peak of the dyno drum, its on like the back 3/4 !!

Have you ohm tested your ISC?Get some 450s(they're cheap anyway) or the proper means of controlling your larger injectors.