Does anyone know where Curt used to source his ceramic bearings from? I may need a single replacement and want to keep the same as other side.

I've had these on my car for several years now. In fact it was me that contacted John when i destroyed my JIC's during a track day and was desperately searching out a replacement. My car is the one on his website for 1G products. You will be absolutely AMAZED at how well they handle. If...

I just got one from Carbontrix but they changed vendors and it took 6 months to receive.

Go with the Whiteline bar. It has 3 positions for adjustability and is thicker than the RM bar. While I don't have experience with wider suspension arms, I do have the same mechanical diff, poly everywhere and active toe eliminators. Get the Mueller Ohlins....you wont be disappointed. Well...

I'm also heim jointed in my 1g both at the trailing arm and the upper arms. Toe hasn't been an issue but I know the whole design isn't optimal. A whole rear suspension redesign would be awesome. Huge task though.

I would agree that most people will have 0 issues with a straight bar. My word of caution was just that. When installing any suspension components take the extra 20 minutes a cycle the suspension to look for any rubs. For me it was a compound issue of my tires potentially hitting the rear...

I just had to order a new voltmeter to test all the grounding points. They appear to be fine, contacts cleaned no corrosion etc. This only happens with the ems. The car is completely gutted so I do not see any other momentary losses. My aftermarket gauges do not die momentarily so right now...

I tried that. I've replaced the MPI relay, checked all fuses, even got some new yellow plugs because mine was missing the locking tab and verified all pins were seated properly.

I've owned my dsm for 25 years, have had every bolt off and on the car turned by yourself truly. That being said, I cannot diagnose an electrical problem worth a damn and need help. The car wiring harness has been hacked thoughout the years, removing unnecessary circuits etc. The car runs on...

I'm envisioning a killer machined bracket that slides over that extrusion for the swaybar attachments. Please make this happen!

While my car is lower than most 1G DSM's, the stock arms and the Ingall's arms BOTH have the bend for a reason. When my arms were straight they made contact with the unibody right where the factory arm bend is located. If your measure your suspension travel, and then remove both struts and...

Thread created here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fender-flares.511931/

A lot of people have asked me how I went about making my fender flares so here's a higher level overview of the major steps involved. Firstly I need to state that my reasoning for adding flares was that I chose to go with a tire size and wheel offset that would not rub on the suspension from...

The flares were made from these: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02c/50-1562Long story short they don't bolt on without gaps. I taped the car, bolted them on and then filled with a two part epoxy similar to a caulk gun. Then I sanded it to the point I could live with. The very...

aaaaaaand safety wire for the win! I'm glad it worked out for you. I haven't even track tested the idea yet so hearing that it worked puts one of my ongoing concerns at ease. Glad the brake ducts worked out as well!

When I opened this I was looking forward to one of your write-ups...but then I saw the photos. DAMMIT!!! Most importantly it's good you came out of the incident unscathed. Best of luck with the season, looking forward to your progress!

I can't even begin to describe the pain those f&*$%#g bolts have caused me. About 4 track days wasted, gaskets blown, lock washers that don't do squat. Here is my latest solution but I have yet to track test it.

The headlight feeds fresh air to the intake. The Naca ducts on the lower sides of the bumper feed brake cooling ducts and trans cooler. The duct incorporated into the center of the splitter feeds another brake duct and the alternator. Cooling management has been my biggest issue. I've melted...

And of course I can't forget this gem...best kill ever!

Man I wish someone else bought the Mueller Ohlins before me...I spent ALOT more than what's advertised on their website. Sometimes being 1st ISN'T better. Thanks for the write up Getto! Been looking for a bump steer solution. Is anyone else concerned about the length of the spacer on the tie...

I've hit that track a number of times with my 1G. I run with NASA northeast and it's typically 250 bucks for 4 20 minute sessions. First time out you will be with an instructor but it is a total blast! Good to see another 1g on a road course.

I assume you are talking about the front. I had the same issue when installing my Stoptech BBK and the instructions actually tell you to massage the tip of the control arm with a hammer to create a few millimeter gap.

For what it's worth, I performed this mod without welding the spline/torsion bar mechanism and although it improved road feel there was now turbo lag in my steering. I didn't like the slop so I tore everything out again and welded it up. It made a noticeable improvement. The weld wire that was...

I have an Evo 8 12 disc in my 1g and can confirm what Tsiawd666 is saying. Street tires are 255's and there is a hair too much on throttle oversteer. 275 Hoosiers are just right. I use Diaqueen with a 1/4 bottle of friction modifier. I believe the Evo 8 is a 1.5 way diff. I wouldn't want a 2...

That white 2g is so badass in so many ways. Very interested in how this all pans out. Speaking of pans...anyone ever do a full undertray? It's in my future for sure.

Get this..http://www.slowboyracing.com/1G90-92DSM1.17.html then port the wastegate hole in the exhaust housing. No more creep for 20 bucks. Been there...done it...it works perfectly.

Warning for Ohlins users, a straight upper bar may hit your chassis under full compression. Mine did coming out of the esses at Watkins Glen and that made me pucker quick. I ended up buying chromolley upper arms and bending them to match factory arm contour. I would not attempt this with...

Waaaaaait a minute. If something is handling "better" I want to know about it. What other changes were made to the "V2" other than top hat mounting and knuckle drilling. Please clarify because if theres an upgrade to be had I need it immediately.

Never Wet. Thought about doing this as well but with lack of testing its durability against heat cycling I decided against it. Thought it would be good to spray on the crank pre balancing.

How many vettes you want me to pass? Limerock 2007 Video by cioc | PhotobucketI've killed many a vette in my day but in all seriousness they are not easy. Back in 2007-2009 I was very competitive with them. Now, not so much. I don't know if they got faster or I got slower but the tides...

It looks like this might be the "V2" model. My ohlins did not require any modifications to the shock towers...or drilling of the knuckles. I did however use the spherical top hats from my JIC's, but since you already have them maybe you can get away with my version. Either way ask Mueller.

Very nice!...I wonder how many of us have this kit now. You will be smiling ear to ear no doubt. Did you have to set ride height?

I would love to see some pics of how the cage was done if possible.

Why do you need a survey to post pics? I for one am very interested in seeing pics of these bad boys but particularly the videos. The more digital media we have of the history of road race 1g's the better. Post em up!...and if not here then the gallery.I was suprised to see only a few...

Best was a :58 on a 235/45/17 RA1. The car at that time was making around 375 to the wheels. Knowing now the tire you're running, I'm even more impressed. Just popped a Ross ringland in cylinder #1 this weekend at NJMP so i don't think I'll be back running in time for LRP later this month...

Well if you further the mods...I'm sure you can get there...and lower. Ask me how I know :hellyeah:

That's very respectable for LRP!

What kind of lap times were you seeing?

Gorgeous! Best of luck man!!! Give them hell.

Finally finished with the flares and paint. There is still some room for growth with tires however I think I will be plenty busy with these.

I've only used Diaqueen per Shephard's recommendation in my Evo 8 rear. My car only sees road course action and other than relearning how to drive the car, I have no complaints.

Holy tire batman!!! I agree with TSiAWD666 on the rim size selection for those tires, but that's the least of my concerns with this setup. The real concern I see is under full compression those tires are going to get eaten alive by your fenders and in short time that could spell disaster...

Track Rims (Pics in previous posts) are 17" X 9.0" in a +22 offset running on 265/45/17 tires.Street Rims are 17" X 8.0" in a +38 offset running on 235/45/17 tires. These need a 31mm spacer as they sit now however I'm going up to a 255 on the street so I will be purchasing a 21mm spacer...

Here is a teaser shot of what the flares will look like filled in to match the body and painted. Granted they are still bolt on style but between the hood vents and naca ducts...it's a rivet on kinda car. Anyway the wheels in the picture are a +35 offset and tucked fine without the flares...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/road-course-autocross/283880-brake-cooling-ducts-3.htmlThey work! Instead of using the Naca ducts in the bumper I am now feeding through a central duct in my splitter.

Too bad you're so far away or I'd say we should get our heads together and come up with something. I had a rear upper arm fail (Old Ingalls design) the day I switched to full slicks. Only got about 5 laps before one arm snapped and the other bent pretty severely. Fortunately there was runoff...

Very nice! Ballsy move on the control arms...having a rear arm fail on me last year I'm petrified of cutting and modding factory arms. Where does your undertray begin?...ever think of going the full length? I may attempt this next winter so I'm gathering ideas. Thanks for sharing!