I have building a 97 Eclipse GSX for the past 10 years. I have a fully built 7 bolt 4G63. I’m running a map sensor, Aem ems-4 stand-alone, Aem 4 channel twin fire ignition with Chrysler 300m cop setup. I have an aeromotive A1000 fuel pump with fuel pressure regulator with FIC 1650 injectors.I...

I'm just going off of memory but I believe you have to take the center caps of the knobs off then there will either be a bolt or nut underneath to remove the knobs.

I would also agree that on this car the 17's are the way to go. If you go 18's your going to have to have such a small side wall that it would cause a very harsh ride. You would also have the chance to damage the rims. If it was just a show car then by all means go with the 18s.

I would just have aftermarket leather put on it. Most seats you will buy at this point will be cracked. I know the factory and the Diamond symbol on it but that could be put on after words. Just my thoughts.

Really like what you did to the taillights in dividing them up. I think the red on red is to much. Great job.

I also agree that is sounds like a valve. Take the advice of others and take the valve cover off.I would also make sure that the timing belt did not jump a tooth.

Knock sensors can go bad and that could be an issue also.

I thought that the front o2 really controlled the fuel mixture. Have you changed out the rear o2 and to see if that made a difference? I don't know what else would be making run rich besides having a bad o2. That has to cost a pretty penny if your only getting 2xx on a take of gas.

If you buy slicks your drivetrain will take a lot more beating. You will break stuff if your not careful. If I can make a suggestion and go with a High performance tire vs just slicks.

Very nice engine bays. I will work on getting a pic of mine even though I'm not done.

That adjust the ad and timing depending on how far above you are from sea level. Your car should run fine without this.

I also believe it's the isc.

I really like the oem front body. If you put a fmic you will have to cut some of it. I'm going to add some things to my stock front bumer such as a bottom spoiler.

Please post pictures of this when your done. What products are you using.

If you do put the wing on the carbon fiber hatch please post pictures and a review. I have a carbon fiber hatch myself and thought about putting a wing on it. I have been affraid of the weight since I'm running glass in mine also.

I would take the gauge off and apply air to it and see if the boost gauge still works before I would be chasing problems on the car.

When your driving the car sway the car back and forth to check to see if you hear the ball joints popping. Also you will want to check the strut towers because they rust out around the strut tower area.Make sure you don't boost on the car a lot when you first start it up. Also let it ideal...

Welcome to the dsm world. The Eclipse will either make you really happy or really mad. Good luck with whatever you do to the car.

If you get some help just push the clutch down and then have somebody push you or pull you. This is will only work if the clutch is disenaging. From the sounds of it this would work. Otherwise if your shift forks are broke there is no other way to put it in netural.

I have an idea for you. I've done this a few times. Call your local mitsubishi dealer and say you need a new ac pump. Give them the vin number to your car then give them the vin number for a non turbo car. You can get a vin number from auto trader. Just ask them if they are the same part number...

Sorry man that just sucks. I blew my engine the first time I went road racing. I was on my 3rd lap when it blew. I had coolant and oil all over the track and my windshields. Good luck on rebuilding.

I would check your o2 sensor to make sure its reading correctly. That would cause the car to run rich on the 450's.

Good Idea, do the little things before you start buying FMIC and other items. Once you but 1 upgrade it usually ends up making you do another upgrade.

You only want to run about the 80% Injector duty cycle. I would use this calculator to help determaine the injector sizeRC Fuel InjectionI forgot to mention that if you plan on running E85 you can actually get more more because it can take more igntion but it also takes about 20% more fuel...

If you know about the hp you will be making I would use a Fuel Injection Cal to figure out what injector size you want. Some items you might not know on the calculatorBrake specific should be .63 Max Duty Cycle should be at 80% but if you do 85% that could get you by. Fuel Pressure is...

I have my car lowered and I will have to be careful on what roads I can go on. That is the only thing I would think about if your going to lower the car. I would say 1" and you will be able to drive on most roads and it would look better.

Very Clean. Do you think the vent helps cool the car better?

Very Clean on the engine bay. Is that powder coated or jet coated intercooler piping?

Good Job. You will like the car more if you did it yourself!

The closer you are to the better the readings will be for your af. If you want the Wide band wire it into the ECU as others have mentioned.

I don't think they would work since the lines for the Turbo come to the driver side while the N/A would be on the passenger side. I'm not sure for the pump itself.

From the sounds of it your pump is failing. I'm not really sure how to test for a bad pump with out just replacing it. But the pump is what gives the fluid to the rack and allows it to turn better. Check the rack to make sure there is no leaks underneath. Hope this helps.

I agree with the guy that said you should have a wideband. When adding upgrades you should know where the af ratio should be. When under boost 11.8:1 is about where you want to be.

That could work. I would some how make notes so you know how to put it back.