Interior pics added

UPDATED: Car is running great, no longer stalls. Someone pointed out venting the BOV on stock MAF can cause it. I recirculated it and bingo no longer stalls, idles great. Installed the stock intake to be able to recirculate.Selling my 1992 Laser, I’ve owned it for the last 9 years. But I...

Synapse bov sold!

Hallman and pte wastegate sold!

FP manifold sold!

2g manifold sold!

Selling some parts that I had for my laser build. Parked my car since I have a baby on the way, don't know when I'll be working on my car again so selling these as they're taking up space on my garage shelves.Check out my other posts, selling a hybrid ef1 turbo.Brand new FP manifold - $old...

Yeah, 6th mounting point not in pic. But it is there.And thanks, GDNF2ET, It looks like the back cover was removed.Also, the manual shifter in the background is from another car.Thanks for all the help guys!

Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I have identified the trans to be out of a 1993 talon.The rear end is definitely a 3 bolt from a 90-91 or early 92.The transfer case is a 23 spline, but I don't know from what year. It looks a bit awkward to me because it seems to be missing the back end...

I am in the process of converting my 91 galant auto gsx into a turbo auto. I have found some drivetrain comments locally and need some help to confirm what I have found so far.First, transfer case, looks different to me from the output end. I have not found any pictures of auto dsm t-cases...

First off, I work at autozone.^ They're definitely not free ^ Who ever is giving them to you obviously is not aware of this or they just don't care.OP, You cannot walk in and trade for cash sadly :(.I would recommend doing a tune up if you haven't done one in a while. You...

Oh! Hy35, i missed that.Yeah, I Just don't feel like dropping mad amounts of money into a manifold/wastegate setup.

That's exactly what I wanted to hear.So your getting full spool at 4200RPM? And did you port the internal gate passage or do anything special with the divider?

So I recently aquired an HX-35w 7 blade. I plan on putting it on my 1991 Galant GSX auto, with a rebuilt 6bolt turbo block and used turbo auto trans. I have been researching for the last couple days and have come to the conclusion that I must stick with the t3 housing to reach the flow...

Mr peepers:I was thinking of making my own twin scroll manifold for my hx35 setup, but I want to use only one wastegate like yourself. My question is, did you divide the pipes that go to the wastegate flange? Or did you just merge them at the flange?

I would recommend cutting off the pipe attached to the flange and then welding a mandrel bent pipe in place.Could anyone shed some light on welding stainless or mild steel to cast iron? That would be my only concern.

I have this kit for my 91 GSX. I had to cut the rad support, crash beam, bend my ac lines a bit, remove the power steering cooler/loop the lines, and relocate my overflow bottle. I kept my fogs, they fit perfect and I didn't need to modify them or the brackets in any way.

I already have a 12 second 91 Eclipse 5spd, that's at 30 psi on E85. I have had 6 DSM's in the past that were all 5spd. I just want to try building an auto to try something different.Believe me I have tried searching and found nothing on here about swapping trannies between earlier to later 1g's.

I recently found that my transmission is slipping. After searching for a while I could literally find nothing about the questions I have. The question I have is unique, I have a 1991 Galant GSX 4g63 non-turbo auto AWD. I am going to turbo the car and I already have the turbo 6 bolt engine and...

^That's what I was afraid of^I had plans to turbo the galant and swap in a turbo trans anyways, but it looks like I can start looking for the components to do the swap earlier than expected.I'm going to try one last thing though. I'm going to swap the trans filter and oil with oem...

UPDATE:I pulled the TCU apart first because everywhere I looked people said that the 1g tcu's where notorious for leaking capacitors.I got a second TCU which I know is good. I still have the same problem. So the next thing I did was pull the codes. I am getting the same two codes on both...

That's going to be my next move. I will begin the search for another TCU.

Tell me about it. It's driving me nuts. But I have not tried a different TCU. I might have to buy one to see if it is the TCU.

I have tried searching and have had no luck fixing my problem. It is not the average limp mode problem. The car will run great then go into limp mode (stuck in 3rd gear) after driving around for 5-10min. But if I pull over and turn the car off then on again, it will run great for another 5-10...

I noticed that nowhere in the description does it state that the picture is not that of the actual turbo. I also doubt that 9 of 10 people just copy images from a search to sell their used stuff. That for sale add was very misleading.

I have the vrsf FMIC kit and was able to keep my a/c. I had to bend the a/c line on the drivers side going to the condenser, as well as trim the 90 degree coupler on that same side a bit for everything to fit.I have had an issue with overheating, ONLY when on the freeway with a/c on full...

Do a boost leak test, most of the time this is the biggest problem for a turbocharged car.Looks like your running a 1g maf, correct? If so, you have a lot of correction on it. Is it hacked? If no then there is no need to have that much correction on it.

Wow, that's really really funny.

First off, you are picking up way to much knock! It looks like it happens as soon as you hit the throttle.I noticed you have two check engine codes, the engine coolant temp sensor, which will make you run really rich and give you poor gas mileage.The second is the CAS, which is a big...

Is this for your main fan?Or are you just wiring in an extra fan, just to keep temps down with a flick of a switch when your main fan can't keep your temps down?Or are you keeping a/c, and just want to know how to wire in a slim fan, to work like stock?Or, are you just wiring in fans to...

You'll be fine. I had less mods than you on my laser with a small 16g, and I put a fmic on with a 3" core, and long route piping. I felt a huge increase in performance, and no loss of power at all.

They are long zip ties that go through the radiator and attach to both sides. If you want to take them off, your going to have to remove the whole radiator, so you have space to work, and cut the ties off. The springs are there for tension only.

First name is Victor, and I'm pretty slick when it comes to working on dsm's, hence the name slikvik.

I would personally never use any type of "Engine Restore" product in my engine. I would just use good old fashioned motor oil.Do you have bad compression or something like that?If you do, why not save up money for a rebuild? It would be the best route in my opinion.

Yeah, IAT should help some. But I don't think that's gonna make a huge difference, your definitely running very rich.You can either change your VE map or use the fuel sliders to lean out. It's really up to you.

Your not logging your gm iat. It's not even specified in pin assignments on the ecu inputs tab. You have to tell ecmlink to log it, and i do believe it has to be wired in at the ecu's iat input as well.IntTep is the ecu's stock intake temp measure and it is always locked at 77 which is why...

1. Do I need to do a rewire? Or will the link contol it better. 2. I got a fp off of our classified, do I need a install kit or is it a quick swap. 3. If I need a install kit were do I get it from? 4. Do I need a aftermarket fpr? Or will stock one work1. Link doesn't control your fuel pump, a...

Make sure your boost source line didn't come loose to your wastegate. It happened to me and it cost me a head gasket.

I'm with steve on this one. I have even seen people selling eprom/ecmlink packages in the classifieds for that price. I would pass.

Before anyone tells me to use the search button, well I did and I could not find anything on how to wire in the slim fan on the driver side, a/c fan, for a 1g. They were all for 2g's.I already know how to wire in the passenger side, main fan, in. Just connect the two wires into the fan, and...

Here's a question for you, where did you buy your balance shaft elimination kit? Ebay, or was it an oem kit?The reason I ask is because my friend bought an ebay balance shaft kit, and the stub shaft did not have an oil grove in it. It caused his new motor to seize after running for like 10...

Hmmm? Well there is only a few places where you are going to be able to get oil onto the pistons.1) From leaky headgasket 2) Bad valve stem seals 3) Bad piston rings 4) Blow-By (oil coming in through your intake system into the engine) * this could be cause by several issues, bad turbo seal...

Sounds like it could be the valve stem seals.

I just did this 5 days ago. Bought a steamer from walmart for $25, took me 20min to remove the tint from my moms 2001 Galant. Very easy, and leaves no residue.

Un-install it. Download the latest java update from the java website. Download the latest stable version of ecmlink v3. It should work then. I have it installed on two laptops both running windows 7.

I had the same question!

Your car might be pre-wired, but I would make sure you have the hardware that actually locks and unlocks the doors. (Door Lock Actuators)You could always buy an alarm kit that includes door lock actuators, then you wouldn't have to worry about buying stock components.

Welcome aboard! This site has helped me in more ways than I could have ever imagined. I'm sure it will do the same for you.

Yes, the lip does indeed go on the outside. Thanks for the replies guys.

Yeah, I meant tensioner pulley. Thanks for the input.I went ahead and put it on with the lip on the outside.