Like I said... 6 of MB580253 and 2 of MB367323. Not cheap. Unless you have access to a lathe and can make them yourself your options are few.

Yes. That's correct. MB580253. I bought 6 of them. I also bought MB367323 (2 of them).Numbers 4 and 36 are MB580253 and number 18 is MB367323.I replaced the bushings under the shifter base with a Mach V Quick Shifter Kit. http://www.machv.com/symshifkit1.htmlI also installed the Stiff Shift Kit...

After about a 100 miles on the aftermarket parts (master and slave), this clutch is feeling much smoother. It's almost likable. At first I was wondering if I should have went OEM.

I updated (solid mounts) the cable bushings and the base bushings a long time ago. I don't remember but I think I had the shifter out but maybe not necessary. Recently I replaced the plastic bushings in the shifter lever. I didn't remove the shifter and did not use any lube. I did buy an extra...

I just installed slave and master last week. I got both of them from Advance Auto for about $60. My slave failed but figured master was close behind so I changed it out, too. I used a vacuum pump kit to bleed the system myself. Changing master was a pain because the pedal linkage is so hard to...

I just replaced the master and slave cylinders. After 24 years the slave finally started leaking. I never made any clutch adjustments and the disk and pressure plate are original at 66k miles. As long as I can remember, my clutch has had at least two inches of stoke at the top until it begins to...

This just happened to me. It was the clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. I replaced it and master cylinder. Did you resolve your issue yet?EDIT: Since my reply I have found all your other posts on this. Seems like you have found the problem now.

I replaced the factory gearbox lube with BG SyncroShift II in 2002. I have not had any issues. This is however a very low mileage car. I've only put on 12k miles since then. This is a 1990 FWD car.

Good to keep in mind. In my case, I would smell gas only after shutting the car off. No odor while running/driving and no performance issues. I checked all the other EVAP system components and they all seemed to be working properly. I removed the charcoal from the canister and it smelled...

I was able to replace the charcoal in the OEM canister. I posted photos here. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102798776259789403620/albums/5898351068819664945?partnerid=gplp0

Yes. Knowing the code(s) will be a big help. I was initially interested in your problem because a few months back I had similar CEL behavior. Code said knock sensor; replaced it and no more CEL. It also seems to drive a bit smoother now.

Any codes stored?

This is given at http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/by Lorrin Barth"When the yellow light is on, the air conditioner delivers cold air when the interior of the car is hot and then gradually tempers the air as the interior of the car cools down. This is done by gradually changing the...

Yes, only at cruise. It was very bad when cold and less evident when warm. The symptoms worsened over the few months it took me to finally pull the ECU and send it for repair. I had tested and replaced just about every other part. Plugs, wires, coil, power transistor, fuel filter, TPS, ISC. None...

Have you pulled your ECU and looked for leaking capacitors? My stock '90 Turbo was having the same surging and it turned out to be the ECU. No codes or CEL, right?

Check the ISC, TPS and idle switch.

Take a look at the ECU capacitors for leakers.

That's causing extra air to get into the intake and messing with your idle (and who knows what else). You need to replace the o-ring seals.

The stock boost guage is not actually reading the manifold pressure. It is an indication of the pressure based on what the ECU calculates it to be. That's one of the reasons the "serious" owners install aftermarket boost guages.Again, if you haven't looked at the ECU capacitors, you are...

Could be break-in chatter. Did you resurface the flywheel ? If not, it could be warping or dirt on the surface. You should flush the hydraulic fluid and bleed the system, too.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be leaking capacitors on the ECU board. If you haven't looked at your ECU, then I suggest you do so. Especially since the car is new to you.

To cure idle surge, start by cleaning the throttle body including the ISC. Read this to get a better idea of the other possible causes. http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html It seems to me that no amount of logic will enable you to pinpoint the problem and fix it quickly. My car has had...

One clue is to observe where from under the car it drips oil. The clutch in my car has light green hydraulic oil.

The "holes" (read leaks) in the top of the radiator will not prevent the water pump from working. It's when all the water escapes that there is no liquid to pump. Running your engine without water, even for a few moments, can destroy it.If you have oil in the radiator, it will be a...

If the clutch checks out fine, then your shifter may need an adjustment.

From what I understand you to say, the car overheated quickly before it stalled. Did you ever find out why it overheated? Is the water pump drive belt OK? Maybe it's as simple as ivanr4g63 said. You have gotten coolant all over and soaked the ignition system. I'd be looking for the cause of...

I have installed both the shifter and transmissions bushing kits plus BG lube in my '90 Laser RS-T and it solved all my shifting problems. This is a great thing if you have good synchronizers. I suggest that you carefully do a shifter adjustment for best results. You may have to repeat it a few...

I am not aware of anyone doing an ISC rebuild and posting the procedure.. Are you sure you are confusing this with the ECU capacitor replacement? And have you found your ISC coils to be bad?The ISC is supposed to adjust the incoming air to keep the idle steady but if there are other problems...

I wholly agree with jking29. After a few months (and several new parts) of trying to fix my hesitation issue, I discovered my ECU capacitors were leaking. I had it repaired and all is good. The twenty minutes it will take you to pull it is time well spent.

You will never find out what's wrong by going at it with a shotgun approach and being unwilling to spend money for parts and labor. If you paid for a new coil to fix the problem and it did not, then take it back and insist on a refund for the part because your coil was obviously good. If you...

I'm the original owner of a '90 Laser RS Turbo with 57,700 on the speedo. It's all stock, always garaged and never driven in the snow or salt.

This problem turned out to be caused by leaking capacitors on the ECU board. The ISC noise was not causing any problems.

After months of trouble and new parts, I had the ECU repaired and my problem is solved.

I had the ECU repaired and that fixed the problem.

If you test the ISC for proper resistance and operation (6 volt battery) then it's probably good. I wouldn't disect it.

Try cleaning the throttle body and ISC first to see if there is any improvement. You can also test yours while you have it all apart.

Sounds like it could be moisture causing problems with your coil pack or plug wires.

A new O2 sensor didn't fix it. I did find a leaking capacitor in the ECU.

I replaced the O2 sensor and still have the same problem. So (as you told me) I pulled the ECU and found one capacitor leaking. Now this has to be the source.

I think I would clean the throttle body and the ISC before spending money on parts. Here's a good article to read. http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html

I would check the relays first. Seems like everything was OK until something disconnected.... like a relay or breaker.

Another point, the 1990 TPS plug is four wires, three for the TPS and one for the idle position switch.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=214331&chapter=AMP703&appSectionid=18&groupid=10042&subgroupid=60189&make=24&model=Eclipse&year=1990&catalogid=1

The regulator is attached to the end of the fuel rail (like the picture shows). It's on the driver side end.There is also a fuel pressure regulator solenoid on the firewall that should be checked. You can do it with jumper wires and a hand vacuum pump. Haynes or factory manual will tell you...

There are many threads here concerning difficult shifting. The 1Gs are known for this problem and worst case would be worn out synchros in the transmission. Before you assume that you should first adjust the shifter and cables. You should find some help here...

I sent you a PM on a source for this item $1.18 plus shipping :(

I just replaced all the hoses on my 1990 Turbo. There are 7 hoses.1 - Upper radiator 2 - Lower radiator 3 - Heater inlet 4 - Heater outlet 5 - Throttle body inlet 6 - Throttle body outlet 7 - Turbo (runs from thermostat housing to turbo; only one needed for turbo, other is hard piped)...

I suggest you adjust the TPS when the throttle body is installed and you have the proper cable slack. First, I noticed that the VFAQ does not appear to be a 1G throttle body. I do not know if that will matter. I would use the factory manual as a guide. I recently adjusted my TPS and had no...

To test fuel pressure you will need to tap into the supply line. There is a hard to find dealer tool that can be used but Haynes manual shows how to fab one that fits the banjo fitting on the fuel filter outlet. You should also test the fuel pressure regulator.

I bought my RS Turbo Laser in January 1990. It was around $15k (I have the window sticker but I'm not home now). Now has 57,000 miles and is completely stock with original paint. Folks that ride in it say it still smells new inside.