Theres been a lot of ppl getting there cars broken into and stolen around here in Tampa, and one just happened today at my job in broad day light, and another in a neighborhood in my city near my neighborhood where a friend got his hooked up honda accord stolen from his driveway while he was...

I thought this would be interesting... Check it out... If anyone was interested how to assemble a 4g63 then here you go!!!:thumb:http://videos.streetfire.net/search/400+hp/0/3BF0FEC9-8FE4-45CE-811F-C43DB275DE13.htm

Ive gone fwd and awd, and I def say go awd just in case the mod bug bites you later down the line and you start needing some traction for the power your making. All it takes is about 15lbs, lightflywheel,act 2600clutch, full exhaust, a keydiver tune and on a stock smic and stock 14b turbo with...

Well im about to get offline but reason I was asking about your compression is because the 1g timing maps are too aggressive for any significant compression increase without altering the timing maps...Example, a year ago I had put in 2g pistons on my 1g gst. Well it would knock at even a...

Hmm.. You seem to have good mods, good dsm knowledge, and a lot of hands on tests with getting your car the way you want it, therefore I cant figure out why you are having these knock problems. May want to dig deeper into your set up to see if you have a glitch somewhere... But doing all...

I dont follow the pressure differential part most of the air in the engine bay while driving tries to go under the car due to being the only escape, but heat rises so theoretically it would make sense that it could vent the heat out and provide an addition escape route depending how big the gap...

Funny ive actually thought of removing that back there but i didnt think it would leave an large enough gap when the hood was closed to release any air... Hell I may just try it just for kicks since now that I know someone else did it too lol...

It all depends about how much throttle your giving it in response to how fast it leans out. By the time you reach 3/4th throttle it should be near or at what your wot afr should be at. The heat soak issue is more prevalent than one would assume thus is why I dont go into boost or full throttle...

Do you have a stock turbo? If so with a fmic and fuel pump mod you should still be ok at 17psi, but the T25 will heat soak quickly. The stock injectiors should be able to match that amount of air flow with fuel though, but still i wouldnt go any higher than that though, but its crucial that you...

Yea you need to confirm your fuel system is adequate. How old is your fuel pump? But realistically if you have a wideband and it doesnt show the engine leaning out then it has to be raising at a 1:1 ratio... If it doesnt lean out then id say the knock is due to heat soak or something else...Are...

Well ive done the hard path, i did a non turbo 4g63 1g to turbo swap before and had/have a gst ( im selling ) that i also built it up to 300hp and realize its not fun when you spin thru 1st and 2nd gear which made me finnaly go awd as my last venture in the dsm world. Its safer to I must say...

LoL...Why would you even consider getting the 420a model. Just so a real dsm with awd can launch on you and/ or fly by you like you werent moving while you were dumping money trying to turbo a garabadge n/a engine he'd be dumping money trying to get a BIGGER turbo on a 500+hp capable stock...

I dont know what difference there will be but bottom line is it will improve airflow to the radiator. Log it and find out the results after you remove it.

I never see too many with tan interiors. Not my taste on interior, but overall the car is very clean. Now this is basically what it comes down tocheap, reliable, fast... Pick two... lol

Not likely, for the head to have caused a problem from being to low you wouldve known already with bent valves and scared up pistons... Its probably not too low... Run straight distilled water with water wetter and see if that helps then post back.

He has a 96, the gapping mouth are the 97 and up 2gs...This is a good idea, I have done this...You dont want to get hotter than 205 because 206deg is when the ecu will pull 1deg of timing back... You dont want to be colder than 180 either on the 2g because then you will get horrible...

If you have a front mount use a metal sheet to direct air from going under the car , and wire your fans to stay on at all times when cars running. Could be a bad water pump. On my n/t when the water pump was going out it would start to over heat after a while. I run straight distilled water...

Has anyone done fp1 intake/ fp2 exhaust.. Would it be similar to 264/272 but better....? Im starting to reconsider going straight 272s, or straight fp2s, as Ive decied now to not go no where near as far into modding with my car as I had originally planned... I am going to stay in the evo3...

My car used to run a little hot even in just regular street driving. I know anything over 206 pulls 1deg timing, I would love to see my temps stay between 185-200 under all conditions... Logger showed it get up to max of 210 ( spirited street driving.) But it was about 95 degs that day ( FL...

Whats the lowest afr that the innovative registers, ive heard not to get the aem because it starts at 11.1 being the lowest ( in which 11.1 is the ratio I run. ) So i was thinking aem was more suited for n/a or leaner running cars. I was thinking the innovative started as low as in the 10s...

Agree, and a 2.3 stroker is still safe up to 8k rpms before side loading worries so that still gives you a good amount of revs to play with plus a boarder power band.Lol.

A old stock tranny wont like to shift past 7.5. A 16g wont hold much boost up to 8.5... With a turbo car no need to use high revs to pull more airflow when you can up boost. Ive hit 8.5k rpm on stock head by mistake... I set the red line to 8k ( chip tune. ) I dont think 8k will pose any...

In my opinion I think a maxed out ( pump gas ) 300-340whp evo16g set up with full supporting mods and mild cams and a good suspension set up is perfect for a daily driver especially those with a budget and that power level isnt at the point of stressing a stock bottom end or tranny too much so...

2g looks better... 2g has better mass air sensor and exhaust manifold... 2g has a more agile stock suspension.... um....2g looks better... ( Thats really all I can think of... ) Oh, 2g's speedo goes up to 170 instead of the 1gs 145 ( But who cares lol. )Buttt there are a lot of things I...

I didnt have to pull any of that stuff off to weld it...:thumb:This is true.Id say 1gs are fairly easy to work on... I own a gst and awd gsx, both easy to work on room wise. Stuck bolts and old parts are what give headaches. Now my friends 2g is a little more annoying to work on due...

Im about to sell my 93 gst and make my awd 92 laser more street friendly and am prepared to make that my daily driver which up to this point has only been tracked and garaged. I never put insurance on the laser yet and havent had any quotes so before I do i am wondering what the main...

Its likely that it does. 95-96 2gs had them.

If you have a eprom ecu youd be better off with dsmlink or a ecu chip which 120 for stage 3.. ( I mentioned this on your other thread. ) Safcs dont give much room to grow and it is a hack way of tuning..

Just another add in, I have the skateboard bushing and the symbroski shifter plate bushings on my dsm and they make the gears feel much stiffer and less inconsistent throws pretty much like everyone else is saying. Worth doing... Now I just need to get the prourethane motor mounts in the engine...

Open up your ecu and make sure the board doesnt look damaged, and make sure all the harness plugs are in tightly. One of my plugs wasnt in tight once and the car started acting erractically whenever I hit a bump or try to accelerate hard and I was going crazy trying to figure out the problem and...

For the price youd likely not find a 18g worth the money for your level of mods a evo3 16g would be better and cheaper. A 18g only outshines a 16g once you pass the 20 psi range and only marginally so. and your not ready for that kind of boost...Re read my post before this one as i think...

Yea the orange didnt fit the theme of my car and I originally put the blue reverse glow gauges you can find cheap on ebay... I mean they look hot but a little ricey and they eventually burned out... I plan on putting leds back there now. I have a friend with a tracker who put LED's in place...

Youd have trouble running fast in a 2g due to its weight with that level of mods. You can pull your passenger seat, back seats, front and rear crash beams, all sound deadening before you track it and just put it all back in after the track ( except sound deadner of course.) Get a fuel pump, a K...

I just left that hose open hanging down by the subframe I didnt cap off anything.

Good set up... Perhaps they may have to extend the down pipe by welding in there own piping before the first bend coming to the flex pipe so it will drop lower and just header wrap it up. It will fit but yours probably will be sitting against the tcase or the bottom of the oil pan too.

I may end up going to the exhaust shop and having maybe braces welded up to pull it away from the tcase and stuffing it with some more header wrap and maybe that will do the trick. Dont want to cut into the dp ir flange at all though.

A L sounds like it messes with the flow, do you have any pics.

I already have a 3in megan dp and a evo3 o2 housing and have the problem were it sits snuggly against the transfercase, Ive dampened the vibration noises with header wrap like I mentioned earlier in this thread but I want to get this thing to clear the tcase by at least a half of inch so its not...

No you can remove it and not even realize its gone... Well that is until you see a cleaner engine bay.

Haha mines does the same thing. Its irritating because it causes nasty vibrations. It happened when the evo 02 housing was put on. There are a few solutions, changing the o2 housing, changing the downpipe for a different unit, or getting the downpipe somehow bent out off the t case. What I...

Glad to here, number one is the first one on the left from the order you read them, that one is usually higher due to carbon build up due to that being the richest cylinder. In comparison my last compression test results ( in the same order you did it ) were 160,155,150,149..... So yours was...

Thats what I was thinking, on stock 1g pistons my highest cylinder is at 160, the rest fall in the 150s.On 1g timing maps you will be easier to knock with compression that high I guarantee it. Go ask a 1g guy running 2g pistons without anything to tune the timing maps and he'll tell you...

Air fuel ratio..

Wow this is a lot of good information. I have a friend who is about to buy a 2.4l soch 2g spyder that is super clean and in immaculent condition. He's bent on going turbo and from the looks of this he can bolt on various old turbo parts from my 1g, and go get himself a 2g ecu, head and intake...

Its fairly easy to do on a 1g if you have all the stuff together that you need ( Ive done it before ) But on a 2g its much more difficult.

IMO on a brand new engine i would do 10w 40 or 15w 40 but i dont think id ever do 10w30 just because of the brake down factor even if synthetic.

If it were a little cheaper Id probably do COP just so I dont have to keep dealing with weak sparkplug wires falling apart and not wanting to come out but its a little expensive though. Im sure those having misfires and weak spark in the high rpms due to oil and or too much fuel coating the...

As long as you can log, and/or have like a chip with a knock sum gauge to see knock on the stock boost gauge ( dsmchips feature ) with the addition of at least a wideband and or a egt gauge you will be ok. Other than that which one is just personal preference. Staying in the low 11 afr range...

Id say number two since thats were they put the knock sensor behind and also because when i check my plugs thats always the whitest one. And personally I perfer the wideband, and yea one cylinder or two will run leaner but thats why I dont run a particularly lean overall airfuel ratio to begin...

I agree with this post, stock crank has already proven itself over 600whp with rod and piston upgrades. Just dont remember the user on here i talked to who was doing that. And if your a street car staying under 8k stroker is best, if your trying to rev higher than 8k 2.0 is better.. ( I just...