I installed an ebay unit on my brothers jk wrangler, properly wired with a relay..the first wouldn't even stay on, the second strobed. The third came from a vendor and functioned like the sun.
The car uses 9005/6 lights in factory housings. That plug is for a 9007 bulb and would need hard wired, providing the bulb will fit, because it probably won't. 9007 bulbs use a lock ring to hold them in.
Being those are torqued to around 100 ft/lbs and may have thread lock on them, an easy out probably isn't going to do it and if it breaks, which it likely will you'll be in more trouble. I would say a used crank would the most cost effective option, but I'm assuming the engine is still in the...
Did you set the pulley correctly, and with the car in time, does the tensioner have the right amount of space between the top of the tensioner body and arm?
I've never seen one of these in real life :-( Should probably just tote it across the ocean for next year's. Just saying!You would definitely give some of these awd cars trouble!
To me, the pitting looks like an issue. I would guess whatever you stuck it in had a chemical reaction to the material of the piston, and if that's the case I would question the strength of the rest of it. For that reason, I wouldn't use it
There is no possible way a piece of a valve spring shim (broken or not) could make it into the combustion chamber. At all. Did you find any broken valves? Something made its way into the intake tract and got sucked in, or maybe a bit of a spark plug could have broken off. Hard to say.
You built a stroked engine for down low power, I'm assuming. I would just guess that you're going to be living life under the 7-8k area, a street manifold or race would probably be what you're after. I also use a 2.3, and opted for the race manifold based off what I heard/read and was told.
Unless you're talking 70+mm I don't think you'll find it necessary. And a turbo that size wouldn't be ideal for autox anyways. A two step(stationary rev limit) should be more than enough to help you at the line.
Usually the only time I hear anyone (ie peple who don't race in any sanctioned way) talk about anti lag is for the 'cool noises and flames'. Unless you're needing it for launch reasons, there's no function to it except high egt's and possible turbine damage.
I have also had good experience with the centric and raybestos brands. Really like the centric brand having the vein and hat coating, whatever it is, it seems to work really well.
Seems like the most logical thing would be to put a freeze plug in the water tube side, and weld your barb or a/n fitting to the spot that originally had the freeze plug.
Looks to be a megan/eBay. A million people run then with no issues. Definitely not a 2g awd unit though. Those are straight as an arrow.Looks to be for a 1g awd, Here is link.
Even better, ecu flash is the free way to not have injector problems. Its not as user friendly but its not impossible to figure out. Plenty of info on here and evom, im sure. Try this.
^ This. If I don't prime the engine with the timing belt off via the oil pump sprocket and impact gun, that's the only other way I will do it and is just as good. I would never just crank it over to try and prime it. That's just me, im sure plenty of people do, but this is a sure fire way to...
A boost leak test isn't going to show anything post exhaust valves. If you had smoke coming out of it, chances are the gasket is blown and you're going to have spool problems, lag, and noise among other things. Any bit of exhaust gas not hitting the turbine is going to kill the turbos ability to...
Since you have no profile information filled out, let alone a car, im going to assume link. In which case you absolutely want to buy the biggest you can afford, take it from me and anyone else on this forum who has bought more than one set. You spend 300ish on something, max them out, new...
The universal and split style boots aren't worth the box they come on, and chances are if he's asking how to take the cv out, he's not going to be able to pull the tulip off to replace the boot and reinstall the tulip correctly. A 50 dollar axle is the most practical solution here.
They are interchangeable, the main difference being the material they are made of. While being just a tad bit lighter ( a few grams) they don't offer much more than that.
I have something similar to that on my catch setup, instead of drilling into the block, I just used the balance shaft inspection plug on the back of the block.. STM sells the fitting for cheap. Any reason you didn't go that route?
Not a bad job at all. But the euro tool export spring compressor, you can use it with the head on the block. Use the old rope trick and pull the springs off, pull the seals, and get your new ones on. Take your time and it will go smoothly. Not the best way to do it, but it's safe and will work...
I personally prefer Moog brand. 9 out of 10 times they are an American made product. I also know that they have whats called a "problem solver" line, which may or may not be applicable to these cars, but they take a particular oem item that is prone to failure and redesign it to make it last...
^ Yeah, when I met him, he wasn't really what I was expecting. Good guy though, for sure. I would really like to see some pictures if anyone has any, of the driveshaft loops, and anything else anyones purchased and/or installed of his!
So I scored a couple more things from F*F at the shootout and got to meet the guy behind the mill. Scored a COP Underplate! Heres a beauty shot.This thing is so solid.Havent got around to tearing my current COP apart and re wiring it onto this, but I know its going to look just sick...
It more than likely would, but the losses you would see from it would be enough to not do it. The stock 2g piping and elbow are a lot bigger in diameter.
If you are talking about a freeze plug, you use a hammer and flat screw driver to knock it sideways in the bore, and grab it with a pair of pliers to remove it the rest of the way.