You need all the other supporting mods any turbo that is capable of making that kinda power will need. Injectors(650s min), probably meth or race gas, intercooler, something to tune with(DSM Link), fuel pump(walbro 255), FPR, clutch, etc etc etc. You can get away with stock block stuff and trans...

Back the newb section man....you're in the wrong section for questions like that. You're not texting your friends here either. You have a keyboard. Make use of it.

Ouch man. So sad how quick older stuff gets totalled. Hopefully you can at least get it back cheap.

Picasa Web Albums - PropeineHopefully that helps. HX35 and meth will get you to that power level

First of all wow I can't believe you guys are on post 7. I've not been on the forums in a long time and am selling my car as it is but thought I'd check out what was going on anyways. Yes you can clear the mount and run to the passenger side for a Greddy style FMIC (thats what I have) its...

Having worked in tool and die I'd like to add that setup time for an exhaust manifold is not exactly short. Not like its a rectangle and can just be thrown in a vice or a head which should be flat on on side and can be clamped down. I'm with the other guys if it was on a belt sander thats too...

Why don't you come over and play then D, i got some 555's around here somewhere. I'll be back at behrend spring semester too for my super super senior basket weaving class that I absolutely have to have for my Mechanical Engineering degree.

So EBC's are really just complicated PWM setups. Anyone ever try to use a simple 555 timer and transistor to drive a Boost control solenoid? IE this circuit?PWM tutorial With a couple of pots you could adjust the PWM output. It wouldn't be a set it and forget it setup but it would be...

Been a while since I've posted. My car was down with a bent valve and I was depressed but I wanted to post another successful Holset install. Biggest pain I really had was the stupid C-Clip popped out for the compressor housing when I was trying to rotate it into position in the car. Rotated...

That thing is massive next to an HX40 even. I'm pretty sure it could swallow the tiny t25 that started out on the car. I like it!

Congrats on the head! Makes it nice to find stuff like that. Head swap shouldn't be too bad on that right? If its allowable post some pics. I'd like to see em at least.

Its the accumulator for the clutch. Taken off pass side right? If you run a stainless line from master to slave you'll get better response.

That return line is empty. If you suck water up through a straw from a large pan and then take your mouth off of it, the water goes right back down to the level in the pan. Same concept. Although I agree with a turbo being primed and your reason for the turbo timer. All you really have to do...

Had that happen too when I bought the car but I didn't replace nearly as much stuff. Hole was in the top and it never drew coolant back in as it cooled down. Would have to top off the coolant every 3 or 4 days or the temps would start to climb. Little RTV fixed it right up.

Dammit all. I always come up with these good ideas that someone already came up with. Mid 2002 I dreamed up this dual runner intake design with a friend...One short, one long for better low end torque. Ya cyclone manifold, 3kgt manifold, already using it in the 90s. Last year I drew up a rat...

Thats the stuff I'm talking about. Eastwood and Mcmaster has it too.

You're pretty good! Might not be perfectly sealed but should be enough that it doesn't matter. I should have rephrased my earlier post. I'm not sure how much faster it would spool on the 1jz. I'm sure faster but not sure if it would be 50rpm or 200rpm or what. Its fully divided other than...

Will do. If somewhere in Erie had the stuff I would have posted results yesterday but no we don't have anywhere that stocks it. Now I gotta wait for it to come in the mail. GRRR

I used the photoshop version of HDR editing and did the only way I knew how to tonemap in there. Wound up overly dark but also probably isn't the best subject for HDR in the first place. I wish I could post the original photos here for you guys to play with.

Muhahaha you're correct....so far. I have an evil plan to make it so you only need one wastegate and still keep it truly divided. The one you pictured is how my 1jz exhaust manifold is setup. I don't know if it would spool faster with a truly divided setup or not.

Hey guys, thought I'd post a quick HDR photo I did of the talon one day and also a photochop I did to see what anyone thought about a red and black panda. Yes I know the trunk isn't perfect but it gives me an idea. I think I like it.Tom

Damn I remember the first time I saw them on MTV's spring break in the late 90s or 2000. Badass stuff but I agree masks are kinda out there.

I'm not well read enough on ITB's but one would think you would lose torque down low due to the short intake tract. I always thought it was more for responsiveness and top end.Ever see the quad turbo v8 that the intake manifold was basically a reverse set of headers? 1>2>4>8? Was crazy as...

Nothing terribly new there and I agree most of it is contradictory at best. Old tech for carbs. Better time is spent on port length, shape and size. Fluid dynamics is a crazy field. Place I worked for used to do a lot of Fluent simulations and hand calcs. Everything is based on assumptions...

14:1 even on meth is damn high at WOT. Getting knock?

Thanks. Kinda what I figured but after reading about that greaseless stuff I had high hopes I could cheat and use that. Prob pick up some anyways as it should still be easier than going through all the steps. I polished one cover already but got lazy and didn't do it as well as I could have.

Crazy long. I read all of it so far. Dude is a hell of a writer lol.

Are you running ARP studs? If so did you retorque them? I read another guys problem with overheating/pushing coolant where his headgasket didn't seal properly because his head studs had loosened up a bit after the first few runs. He tightened them up and was fine.

Any polishers ever use greaseless compound to knock the casting "pits" on a compressor cover? I see grit from 80-400 and think it would be alot easier to get the deep areas near the inlet etc with a flexible wheel and some of this greaseless compound. Any insight?Tom

See told ya lol.

Hey speakin of that Slippi is sellin one. $150 I believe.

I'm all for you going with the HX40. Proven 600HP turbo. Cheaper than a GT35 by a long shot and spools faster to boot. Going to have to go with either the bullseye housing or a T4 manifold and an external wastegate. DSMLink is amazing. I'd say toss a Meth Kit on there so you can run enough...

theturbotrader.com is out of the game for the moment. Yes you can sometimes deal with bullseye directly. Prices might be a little higher than if you go through an authorized distributor though. I'd check out timsturbos.com if I were you.

Just Head over to Slowboy man. Bunch of guys with DSM's there. Thats Indiana which is a little bit of a drive but there are some good dudes there. Some guys work there and some are just hanging out.

Damn you got me all excited. You're talking to a guy who did research on Helmholtz resonance for intake design which led to control theory and differential equations blah blah blah. I just like to try and make some use of my school considering I could really give a rats ass about most of it.

You gave a lot of very good tips on porting in there. Even the fuel atomization for the carburator vs fuel injector thing is easy to follow especially with real results. I'd like to see the theory on laminar and turbulent flow being caused by moisture in the air. Not because I think its wrong...

Sure did. Then somehow without speaking he told them he wanted a wing. Some say he eats turbine wheels and motor oil for breakfast. Some say his driving suit is a support system for his alien body. All we know is he's called the Stig. Ahh how I love top gear. Can't wait til October when...

That is a damn good deal on that manifold BTW. $649 is cheap for any divided mani for our cars. Even SBR's cast one is $799.

Looking at the wheel sizes and peoples past experiences with H1C's I'd say it should perform very similarly to an HX40. Which compressor wheel is on it just for curiosity sake? 6, 7, or 8 blade?got beat to the punch

Isn't that the truth! Best of luck man. Keep us posted.

I like it. You're giving me inspiration to break out the spray gun and squirt my hood and hatch. Not sure if I'm gonna like the red and black look though.

Be careful not to "knife edge" the divider in the exhaust port too thin. It can have trouble dissipating the heat enough and melt/burn off. This isn't from experience but a general rule I have read in the past.

Sounds like my motor when I bent 2 valves. 180, 180, 180, 30. GRRRR. Oh well build it better faster stronger right? Did you do a leakdown to see where the actual problem is?

Disconnected one of the sending units by accident while you were doing the timing belt perhaps? Maybe just knocked it a bit loose and after driving for a while it came off the rest the way?

I believe you're right. They tested the CCX, CCR and then the Stig said one of them needed a wing for more downforce, they got the car back with a wing and ran a considerably better time.

Just go through the upgrade paths on buschurracing.com roadraceengineering.com and here. Plenty of info to get your car 12's capable. You're on the right path though. Going to possibly need fuel injectors and tuning of some sort if you want to run higher than stock boost levels on that 16g...

Probably be fine as long as its GL-4 and not GL-5 but I don't want to be the one to tell you to do it and have you frag your trans.

CCXR has always been my favorite car from Top Gear. Pure insanity in both styling and driving.

Just noticed you're in a 1g. Alot of the stuff should be the same but you may not need absolutely everything that FAQ shows.

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdfshould give you all the info you need. Straight from VFAQ.