hmm ....it could be either . did you beat on the clutch ? or was it slipping at all ? do any panic type stops ?there is a chance the slides on the caliper seized .... but that should have made the car pull to one side or the other . do a clutch test tomorrow . lug the car into 3rd gear ...
i saw your other thread , what makes you think you over heated the brakes ? did they fade ? where was that ohh soo crappy smell the strongest ? any particular wheel ?
is the plug tight ? a loose or stripped plug is the only thing that i know of that will have enough pressure to screw up one of the bolts . the oil is prob from a bad gasket .
one other option is go to home depot's plumbing section and get an npt nipple , and tap the hole .. but if u can get a non cracked v/c that cheap just replace it . check the new one for cracks by the two valve cover bolts nearest the timing belt in the spark plug galley . hope that makes sense...
im pretty sure one of the plugs by the timing ground connector on the fire wall will activate the pump . with the car off u should be able to hear it . if you cant hear it u can disconect the line going into the rail , put it in a gas can , and try the pump . just be carefull not to spray fuel...
prob gain 5 ish hp . as to the puddle problem , look into getting an aem bypass valve . its basically a coupler with an air filter in it . if u submerge your filter it will pull air from the bypass instead of sucking in the water and hydro locking your engine ......
sounds like the afpr is dead . there is vac at the hose correct ? if u have vacuum at the line , and when connected its not pulling the pressure down its bad . should lower the fuel press with vacume , and raise when boost pressure is applied
+1 on check that the calipers arent seized up . also its a long shot but ive seen on bikes if u over fill the res , when the fluid heats up and expands it will hold the brakes slightly on .
black smoke means its running rich ie fuel . when u changed the plugs were they consistent ? also check the maf . make sure its clean , no big leaks between the maf and the turbo . look over the entire fuel side of the system as well
any ideas when to try n set this up again ? i was up last night n the track is nicer than i remember ...... they paved but only the track surface ..... entrance road is still crap
really ..... i know i havent been there in a while , but island is where i used to get tech'd the hardest with my mustang ..... only place ive ever seen em crawl under to check for a d/s loop and a scatter shield ....anyway if i can figure out why im getting tons of knock and fix it in...
umm ... 2 things i can think of . one in the dtc tap , u can turn off misfires , the other is to wire in a volume knob into i think the baro wire . im not sure if this will help you , i really thought it was just an issue with 6 bolt swaps ....
how did the crank look when you installed the bearings ? i prefer to rebuild over just replace . that way you know the history of the engine and that all is new etc etc . buying a used motor is always a gamble .
Is this a track only car ? If not you might want to rethink removing the heater components . I know it doesn't get that cold in fl , but if u ever get stuck in the rain and the windshield fogs ...... gonna be S.O.L. !
Can i ask why do you want the head polished ? A lot of people just assume thats what they need because it is such common lingo , but polishing the intake usually causes driveablility issues in the lower rpm's . when you polish the intake side of the head , it can cause the fuel to puddle on the...
Generally i dont worry too much about the psi , but more so the consistency between the cylinders . as to the smoking issue , what color is the smoke ? The color will help narrow down the suggestions on where / what to check .
an easy way to check if its a head gasket ( not likely ) is pull the plugs . if there is one really clean one , that cylinder is burning water . also could do a compression test , or another is to put compressed air into the cylinder .... around 120 ish psi and look in the coolant cap for...
is the car smoking at all ? if so , what color is the smoke ? i hate taking stabs in the dark , but kinda sounds like the fpr is stuck and just dumping fuel .
have you checked for boost leaks ? if u have a big leak , it wont builn much boost . also im pretty sure you wont increase boost tightening against the spring . to raise boost , you make a controlled leak in the line going to the waste gate actuator . basically tricking the actuator into not...
if they are ground trigger injectors , all it would take is a wire to rub through and basically short the circuit . im not sure if these cars use a ground trigger or a positive trigger for the injectors . it is pretty unlikely that the injectors are stuck wide open . if they were , they ''...
when i did my 6 bolt swap , i spent a week chasing and tracing wires to find the cas had a broken wire as soons as it came out of the sensor . alot of times with electrical its something stupid . try not to over look the little things . check fuses , grounds , and make sure everything is plugged...
id still say do a spark test . might have a good coil , but a bad wire . another thing u could try is check if the injectors are firing or just stuck wide open . ive herd of ppl feeling for the click of the injector firing , but if available id say get a set of noid lights . they are pretty...
also do u have an afc or any other tuning system ? 550's with no correction are always gonna run rich on idle with nothing to make corrections with . and afpr wont really help much , but most say u need one with a 255 as the pump will over run the stock regulator
If your still using a oe mas air , you should keep the bov piped back into the system . pretty much its generally a bad idea to release the bov into the atmosphere unless you are running a gm maf in the blow through configuration .