I am in cleburne till feb 8th , 15 min from burleson. I have had a couple 1g dsm's, currently own 1g dsm awd. pm me if you want.

One other option is to paint the inner part of your rims the color of your car and the lip black or the other way around.

Where did you get the hood scoop? or did you make it? IDK if I want the tmic but i deffinitly want the hood scoop. I cant help myselfWTF I just love hood scoops, I am gona stick with a fmic but I could make an air intake with that, if you don't mind?

Any pics of the car with the hood down and the tmic? I would like to see what it looks like with that.:hellyeah:

Dsm link is the way to go. dsm link is made for our cars.

Buy time your all done you will make $200-$300 bucks. is all the work worth it to you? and $300 for the trans depends? how many miles? you get the tourqe converter too? can you verify the miles? When your talking used trannys you could run into problems. I suppose if he takes $400 and you could...

Never attempted this but i assume your lookin at about 10-15 hours worth of hard works?

IMO i would NOT buy this car, $500 for the car $300 for the trans + fluid filter $80 up too $880 you will be lucky to get $1500 for this car. But the final decision is up to you.

If you are worried about an ebay manifold then dont get one, IMO i wouldn't get one from ebay. save the extra money and get one from a reputable shop.:thumb:

I would get the wideband to be safe your gona need it anyways to tune the car and keep it tuned properly.

Well labor lets see, Trans swap$350, I belive the shifter linkage is differnt also lets say $175, rear axle assembley install $400, and all other bs add another $400 thats, $1325 in just labor, plus tax, you can get an awd dsm for that. And this is all if it is a DSM shop that knows what they...

If you get all the parts and find a good dsm shop you will be looking around $800-$1500 in labor alone, and around $2500 for the parts, used. So proley around $4000 to have it done right. Best bet is to sell your fwd and get an awd dsm. This task is just as much of a pain in the azz as putting a...

Coolant temp sensor can cause a no start or hard to start issuses, I just had this problem and found one of the wires going to this sensor was broke off(dry rot)so I spliced new end clips on and poof she started right up. Other problems could be the cam angle sensor as it works as the crank...

Welcome To the site, Nice ride:thumb:

I would put my money on the ics or tps or it could just need plugs and wires. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

If it is throwing a cel then you either forgot to plug something in and or have a vacuum leak/ boost leak.

You may have bad shifter cables. unhook all cables from the trans and the shifter, see if the cables move, then see if the shifter moves,The shifter has long plastic bushings between the shifter and where the cables connect One for up and down moves and one for side to side moves, these are...

possible it could be a broken or stuck shift fork? unhook the linkage and see if you can move it without the cable attached. check under the shifter boot and see if anything got down in there too, and PB blaster all moving parts that deal with the shifter too.

Thank you for the excellent info , i think I am going to pass on this turbo after reading this , I am going to wait and get a Holset.

I would try a mitsu dealer or a dsm trans shop like jacks or shep transmissions.

Found a Precision SCM-61 turbo on craiglist needs rebuilt $100. go or no go? And where might I find a rebuild kit if i decide to get it?

E-Brale haha is that an E-Brake for blind people?ROFL

Again oil squiters are for cooling the pistons if you go with forged pistons and a good cooling system(radiator,fans , oil cooler) you will be just fine without the squiters.

I have 90 tsi . ecu in it did not work right have a 91 eprom in it now had to swap pins 6 and 14 works great other than the tach but i have an aftermarket tach so that really doesn't matter to me. mine also does not have abs, I really dont care for abs anyways. tb on a 91+ have more vac ports 3...

remember to start in the middle of the cover and work your way out in a cross pattern.

I will be back in toledo ohio in mid feb with a little help i think i can get some things going up there in the toledo area, garage meets, local events things of that sort, maybe even a web page??? pm me and let me know if your willing to help.:hellyeah:

voltage should be 12v+ normal around 14v. with the car off. sounds like a bad battery.

Yes unsprung is harder on the spline and trans but it is how you drive the car, beat on the car and it will break sprung or unsprung. with a dsm I would never go with a clutch kit from any local autoparts store, go with something with a good rep, act, exedy, ect....

I have no idea with 1.8, but i would call some dsm shops, jacks,shep, showdown, ect....

I would go with the spring poping out on the disk, go with an unsprung disk to avoid this problem in the future.

JB weld is the only thing i can think of for a temp fix. as for cracking cause it was cold doubt it , it would have had to been in the negitive like -20 for something like that to happen.

ICS(Idle controll sensor) TPS(throttle posistion sensor) sorry for bad grammer Didn't pass english

I would start by getting a volt meter and checking all fuses(pulling them out one by one and checking the fuse block leads) with a good battery and see if any are pulling power that should not be pulling power with the car off. Also check all other sources of sensors, lights and any thing else...

Turn the water injection off and see what happens, also before you do anything else get some new plugs and wires, that may be your whole problem right there.

Possible lifter tick, but it sounds more to me like an exhaust leak. as for the idle check for boost leak if it is a turbo, vacuum leak , and ics, and tps sensors. get a new gas cap too.

I hope you mean from a 7 bolt to a 6 bolt. I second the dsmlink v3, Good luck.:hellyeah:

Hopefully to make it a turbo:hellyeah: Good luck.

^^agree^^:thumb:

^^Agree^^If you flip your sun visor down and it is the original then you will see it calls for 10-30 , 10-40 or 20-40 , and 5-30 is only to be used in cold conditions. 20-50 is not that much thicker than 20-40.^You should be running thicker oil^

If you have adjusted the clutch and the ms and ss are not leaking and working properly then I would check the pedal assembly and if thats not it sounds like it is time to pull the trans and see what going on inside the bell housing, Bent fork? bad disk? ect....

I would find a good dsm shop talk to them about taking the parts you have in and building the motor in exchange for all left over parts. it sounds like you have almost 2 motors there, and some dsm parts are not to cheap, I am sure you will have to spend some money, like on new head gasket ...

More hp = more air and fuel. and then a way to control the air and fuel. more air = bigger turbo, more gas = bigger fuel pump or pumps and bigger injectors. cams , and port polishing can help too. the auto trans will burn up also when you start going big on hp, go with a built 5-spd. and make...

As long as they are low impedence (ohm) injectors they should work fine

I second the Holset hx series I do not own one but have read many very good articles about them.:thumb:

I am just happy to have a parts catalog at all. How ever you decide to redo it I can learn how to get around it, I had to see how to get around it when I was a new member anyways, And if someone can't figure it out they proley shouldn't be working on car anyways. Just my two cents.:thumb:

What do these 4 symptoms mean? Is this normal when you have a bad ecu? I don't have any of these symptoms but I am curious and would like to know, I get the ecu datalogger one but the other 3?

^Correct^, and i am saying a cold wire is more stiff as a warm wire is not, a warm wire is more prone to sagging and hitting something, and moving around more as you drive>(Once the car is good an hot) (aggressive driving for a min or two) < your words

Well if you can pump it up and get pressure then it losses the pressure you have a leak, leak does not really mean fluid leaking out as you can have air getting in aswell.

Did you turn the flywheel, if you did and they took to much off this can cause problems as well.

undo what you did, and or replace the entire line with the fuse in it, you may have a shorted out wire.