Dude, that's one very impressive build you got going on there!!!! I am really impressed at your ability and the speed you got everything completed in!!! Really is one sick car you got there, love the custom fab work!! Keep up the great work, keep the pic's and the videos coming, and update us on...
The 3065 is a great turbo, its what I use still, but concider maybe a 35r. It will make 500hp a little easier and you will have room to grow down the road.
Wow! Cant believe someone would even ask that question! Well I think your motor will handle it, but slow down speedy, you might get a speeding ticket, and that would cost about the same as a set of rods.
My cars at Dogbox Racing, will be finished in a few weeks. I would love to meet more Dsm'ers in the NY area, there is not to many left here ( hard times with the ecomomy I guess) I would take a cruse to up-upstate NY lol, I live in Orange County. I feel all alone around here, everyone is giving...
Well the bigger the turbo the more air it will produce at the same psi level. For a green I would not go over the 18-20psi you mentioned. You will make nice power at that level, but the best way to do it is to have a data logger or some kind of tuning program and tune it to the knock it is...
The white car in my sig has all the mods, built block, built trans, twin disc clutch ect, you can check my profile, its all there. Everything in the white car is going into a drag shell I bought from chicago, 12pt cromolly cage, 10 gallon fuel cell, racing seats and harnesses, fuel cutoff...
lol its funny you say that, I just called Dogbox and they are 3/4 done, they have had my car for a month and a half. They have a lot of work to do tho. Im not bothered cause I know they do some KICK A$$ work and know I wont have a problem with anything they touch! What that means is I wont be...
Yep im another dsm head that lives in Middletown. I drive the white talon that use to say 4g63 on the sides. Now it has the complete 2gb conversion and all white paint job. Im currently working on a drag car, which in a few weeks will be complete, I'll post a few pics. The white car will be 4...
You need to use a new headgasket! Use a cometic mls or a OEM mls tthey are only like $90, dont skim you will regret it in the long run ;)Sorry for the double post.When you have a oring anything, block or head they will use eighter a copper oring or a metal one, if they have a metal one...
Bullseye sells them. Bullseye Power Selector i think slowboyracing sells them too. But dont bash me if they dont, just trying to help out. My friend got his from them a while ago. good luck!
Road Race Engineering have several harnessess and diagrams.( I have made 2 and not messed up yet, pretty simple) As for the coil, keep all spark plugs the same on the coil and on the motor, take the coil plug find the two blue wires and switch them, and all is good. This way you or anyone else...
Well if it is turning over and not starting, you can try and make sure the the cooling temp sensor is good and pluged in, you wont think so but it has alot to do with starting. If it is not turning over i guess just check all grounds and connections, make sure that the ground is on the good bolt...
I use 30w non-synthetic. I do the warm up breakin for 20 minutes, change the oil, use 30w for 500 miles change it and use 30w again for 1000 miles more. After the 1500 miles I then use Valvoline 20-50 synthetic from then on out.
shep stamps his trannies, i tried to take a pic with my camara phone of my new stage 4 but its too crappy, so i attached a pic of where he stamps them.
I have been in a similar situation last year. my qusetion first is; you have power on inj 1 and 2 but not 3 and 4, correct?
You may need to change the injector transistor (think thats what its called) its the silver box on the fire wall. This is where power comes to the box and splits for all...
ok i think i know what it is. i had the same problem.
the belt wears on the tensioner arm between the pulley and the bolt holding it to the block, take a grinder and smoothed it out, when you pull off the arm you will see exactly where you need to grind.
you fix the problem yet? it could be a few porblems, 1st make sure the tps is adjusted correctly, 2 make sure the idle stop is not backed off to much, 3 check to make sure that the faiv seals have not dried and leaked, make sure you have no boost leak.
let me know your progress i live in...
thanks for the advanced tech info old mitsu tech, but the noid lights are all new, bought just for this problem, but i will try the test light idea. im in the process for finding stock injectors, installing them and installing my stock ecu, trying to rule out some factors. ill post my findings...
all injectors have a 12v source, when the cam angle sensor is rotated i can hear each one of the inj firing and can see fuel in the chambers. i still dont know why the noid lights wont light up. it does seem to be a inj ground pulse not getting to inj, but why do inj still fire?
yes i tired that plugs have spark, i checked timing, rewired the cam angle.
justocar1 try checking the cooling temp senser, make sure its good and pluged in! if yes then were in the same boat!
ok car has lots of mods, has everything.well ill get right to it, car ran fine, no issues, then the other morning went out to start it but just wouldnt start, i took the day of work to try to figure it out. so i have spark, i have fuel, i have compression. i can hear the fuel pump, the plugs are...