Welcome the rx7 sounds like an interesting build hopefully the site can help you with all your questions and needs. I know its helped me out many times and ive got to help others to.

I got mine from extremepsi

Clifford makes keyless entry, alarms, remote starts so could be anything. I'm more towards alarm but like said find the Braun and get the model number off. I'll bet if you drop the drivers side lower dash ull see the brain there

If your looking at putting a n/a 4g63 you'll be doing a 6 bolt swap either way and a 6 bolt turbo motor is pretty easy to come by. And also the n/a will work. You'll be running more compression and loosing a few oil ports or whatever there called

Check your wires at your o2 sensor make sure there not broke or have bare wires and make sure its plugged in. And make sure the wire your on isn't for your rear o2 incase you don't have it hooked up

I used to install viper systems had one on my 97 gst and going to put one on my 98 sooner or later. But if ## familiar with 12volt its not bad. But I install audiovox systems now and there just as good. And someone posted not to use autopage but they are owned by dei now. The ones to stay away...

The rear is the one that would normally have to be pressed completely to let the car start. I may not have jumped mine but I do know it is the one to let it start and upper switch kills the cruise so that way your car doesn't free rev if you push the clutch in to change gears

Your cruise should still work unless you unhooked the wrong switch. Of the 2 switches you have to bypass the clutch start you should have unhooked the lowest switch. The one closer to the firewall that the pedal touches when its all the way down. Which if I remember right on my 97 I had to use a...

Just cap it off if you already have a mbc. If you removed the bcs completely you should have a cel since it has an electrical plug on it. On the injen don't put black goop on it I case it comes lose and the turbo sucks it up. Get the rubber caps you can buy at the parts stores and zip tie it on...

Yea I done a compression test. Cylinders 1-3 had 140 and cylinder 4 had 120. So I'm not sure if the valves are bent or not. It was 3 teeth off when I got it but with the compression it has I'm not sure about the valves. I've got 2 pairs of bearings for the rods just have to pick them up from a...

I'm gonna try to replace the bearings if the crank and stuff looks good if I find one bad. Til I get a chance to bring it to the shop and pull the motor and tear it down

I was hoping when I got the car that it was valves or lifters. But my luck its gonna be something lower. The guy changed the motor because the other one spun a rod bearing.

I meant to drain the oil today and drop the pan i may do that first before i buy the lifters and check the rods. I still got my fingers crossed its lifters though.

Id like to not have to do a tear down but im running out of options. But i know someone local that actaully has a set of 3g revised lifters that i may try. I woud love if thats what it is. The car set for about 6 months before i got it and when i first went and looked at it the exhaust was off...

I got the video to slow down some but had to shorten it. Had to edit out the watch your shirt lol. I looked at the lifters but didnt pull them out and check them. I couldnt push down on any of them but that doesnt mean crap. And pardon my brain fart but what is the HLA.

This is more than lifter tick although I wish it was. It sounds like if the valves were tapping the pistons but they don't seem to be. I wish I could post my video for people to hear its pretty loud and not safe to drive it soundsHere's a quick video of it if it worksView My Video

. To make a quick story I just picked up a 2g gst out if time a couple teeth with a low mileage short block. It was making a loud tapping sound in the top end it sounded like to me. It never got drove that way. Well I pulled it apart checked the timing it was about 3 teeth out so I timed it put...

Thanks. My luck the 16g is probably an eBay one. But if it lasts me for awhile I'm good with it.

Haven't been on here in awhile but just picked up a 98 gst 89k original miles. Guy just put a newer short block in because the old one spun a bearing he said. Picked it up thru a trade because he gut fed up with it couldn't get it running. I went to go get it and he just got it running but its...

As far as i know you will have to have atleast the stock chip for it or it want run. i Could be wrong though.

Im having a cold start problem. When the car is cold it want start at all no matter how much you crank on it, and its only if its around 40 degrees outside. If its warm it will start like normal. The problem just started recently but the car had set for about 3 months with a dead battery. I...

You will be fine putting that stuff on there but it will take some work to make the piping fit, youll have to customize it. But the bov will help and the boost controller will also but i wouldnt go to crazy with turing the boost up till you have something to control your fuel. Also make sure you...

You dont have to replace your starter if you can hear it trying you can get it tested. But did you make sure you got the timing is set right?

The link above is for 1g and galants, im pretty sure it want work on a 2g. But it could be worth a try.

Like said above dsmlink is the only way to log knock on a 2g unless you install a standalone knock sensor. But with a logger you just log your timing and watch for drops in it and usually that means you may be getting some knock because the ecu is retarding the timing.

There is away to make a logger for obdII but it is a pain. I cant remember were i seen it at but it requires soldering on a electrical board. But it is just about as cheap to get 1 off ebay it will save you time. I take it you are have put a 1g cas on your car is the reason you are trying to set...

If im not mistaken only the 95 and possibly the 96 have the plug to ground to do timing. 97-up dont have it. You have to check timing using your logger and a timing light. If im mistaken somebody correct me but i believe that is what i have read when i was messing with my timing or if you have...

The knock-offs you can find for $20 shipped or sometimes less just type in type-s bov and itll bring up a ton of stuff. Also you could just retap teh hole which many people have done because tehy are bad about stripping out. Its just aluminum so it is very easy to strip and also very easy to...

You dont loose much flow with the 180 degree pipe you have to use with the top to bottom intercooler. ecspecially if your going to be doing a short route piping for the upper. Im still on the t2 small and i contacted ets before i ordered the 180 pipe and they said it should not hurt flow that...

Only thing that will happen if the wattage isnt the same is you will blow the resistor and throw a cel more than likely because it will be just like you unplugged the sensor. If it works for you post back up because i would like to know. I may try it anyways.

You will probally have to play around with the idle switch to get it to idle normal but the rest you will need to leave alone unless you get a logger to log with to read your o2 readings and read your timing. But like i said you will be safe just mess with the idle till you get a decently smooth...

Here is you a link to a pipe that will allow you to run a side to side intercooler with your t-28. I have the same pipe and it works well with my SSAC fmic. And it goes over the cross member so you dont loose any clearence to the ground. Just have to trim some on your radiator fan or if you have...

It will be nice if this will work. I would like to get rid of my solenoids. It should work though aslong as the resistence is correct.

Like everybody says ebay or just about all of the vendors on the site will have them or can get them. Just check out the vendor section. Or heres you something betterDSM Intercooler Pipes - DSMtuners.com

I just purchased the ecu+ black box and it seems to be pretty easy to tune with and the forums for the ecu+ is pretty helpful also. And Tom the inventor of the ecu+ is also very helpful. If you could find the silver box it is better but im happy with the black box. It is alittle more complicated...

You should beable to do 15-16psi on the first gen without fuel cut unless you have a boost leak or something else causing you to hit fuel cut. But i would check for boost leaks to make sure you dont have any because that is 1 of the main factors that cause fuel cut. Just do all the free upgrades...

I would check it first to see if it is good or not because they are not very cheap to replace. If i get a chance while im at work ill see if i can find the link on how to check the ISC so you dont spend money you dont need to. Also i would check the wiring around the ISC and make sure that it is ok.

Looks good! Did you try to keep your cruise or just get rid of it?

ISC stands for (idle speed controler). Its on your throttle body. Not sure if its in the same place as a 2g but if it is its located just below the throttle body elbow. The throttle body has another sensor on it thats called the TPS (throttle position sensor) so make sure and check the correct...

All you need is just some regular wire like 16 or 14 gauge wire would be fine. Just go to your local parts store or even radio shack and get some wire and just extend the wires

The smoke could be oil selas in the turbo or it could be bad rings or bad valve seals, or it could be a head gasket. And you say it doesnt leak oil but there is oil around the motor so something is leaking. Post up what you got on your compression test so we can see the numbers. Also search on...

I used this pipe with the ssac fmic so you dont have to cut your turbo and it goes over the crossmember so you dont lose any ground clearence. You only have to cut this pipe alittle shorter.ETS (95-99) 2G DSM Eclipse/Talon T25 Pipe [ 2GDSM_T25 ]

Since you had the motor moving around changing the mounts have you done a boost leak test to make sure that you dont have any. And as for the shifting when was the last time you changed the fluid and make sure that something didnt fall down around the shifting linkage above the trannsmission

I would check your antifreeze level, also have you changed the thermostat anytime soon. And also make sure your heater core is hooked up. Someone may have unhooked it if it was leaking at anytime.

Like stated above check your plugs and wires and also do a boost leak test.

Did you change upper and lower seals? And have you done a boost leak test to make sure your seals are sealing good. The lower seals will leak boost if they arent sealing good

Id put it behind the motor to soak up all the heat!But all seriousness, you have to remove the bumper and you may have to fab up some brackets to mount it up to the front of the car behind the bumper

I need to look at my parts car but i may have a sending unit i will sell you. Ill go look at it tomorrow and let you know if you wind up needing 1.

Why are you going to buy a new maf when you tried your friends that was working fine and it still does the same thing. That would just about eliminate the maf. Check all you connections on the throttle body and check your temp sensor and check the rest of your connectors. Also have you had a cel...

Here is a link to what the lines are suspossed to look like on the stock car. Just ignore the part that has the removal unless you want to remove somehttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html