yea its deff my alternator and thats what i figured....when i would first start the car and the under hood temps weren't that high yet i would see my voltage spike as high as 15.8 volts then once the car would actually warm up and it would get hot under the hood the voltage would really start to...

Thanks, i looked at that exact pic somewhere online don't know where but thats the pic i used for a refrence. I actually wasn't quite sure if i even ordered the right sensor but i did. when i would hook up my laptop to my car and connect to link and run a live stream my coolant temp was reading...

ok guys I'm trying to figure out witch 2 wire sensor is the one that the ECU you reads my car is throwing a check engine light code 0021 coolant temp sensor circuit malfunction. Is it the two wire sensor on the top or the bottom the one that I need to replace ?

I figured as much...zither voltage regulator prolly took a crap...but now I'm having issues with auto zone, I've had a lifetime warrenty on alternators since I bought my first DSM in 2006, and I just replaced the one that's on the car in August of last year and they are telling me you can only...

I was driving my car yesterday and it started throwing a CEL...I thought maybe my CAS plug came loose a little but that's not the CEL. issue I need to hook up my laptop and check the CEL, but late last night I noticed my dash lights and headlights get really bright and I looked down at my turbo...

ok guys so i was driving my car the other night and I had my laptop hooked up and capturing a log with my link. I went back and looked at the log and noticed my internal temp was reading 97 degrees, and my factory gauge is right where its supposed to be and my aftermarket gauge was reading like...

I understand what you are saying and I've seen a number of people who have had great results with the XTD clutches...I'm just debating on going with the sprung solid disk or if I should spend the extra 3 bucks and go with the sprung 6 puck disk and the pressure plate that is a little heavier

That's what I did put the 90's on the master now the front line on the master does that go to the passenger side straight fitting on the pro portioning valve or does it go on the driver side straight line...I put them on the fitting that stick straight out of the valve I put the front master...

OK guys I'm going to delete my ABS I bought the STM ABS delete kit I noticed that the two short lines have right angles on them am I supposed to use the lines with the right angles on them on the proportioning valve itself Or do I use the right angles on the master cylinder???? Help would be...

Yea guys I just need something that will hold up for atleast 3 months and I'm not looking to do anything crazy in that time period....and my mods are just a FMIC, ported 14b, full 3in exhaust, punishment o2 housing with a tial external gate, AFPR, a tubular manifold, and I have V3 ECM link and s...

I only plan on having like that XTD clutch in for about 2-3 moths when I get my 11k and my new built engine then I'll go with a twin disk setup just need something to get me through for 2-3 months then I'll send the trans out for a stage 2 rebuild and do a twin disk setup but just need something...

Yea I'm in a really tight budget right now as I'm on medical disability and my claim is in limbo so I really don't have any income that's why I was thinking of just putting one of those XTD's in it for the time being until I get my 11,000 check from disability then I'll buy what I want and then...

Ok. Guys so my clutch is toast and I haven't had to buy a clutch in about 7 years...I'm just curious what everyone is using for their clutches these days I always used ACT's but I was thinking of going a diff route this time my HP goal are gonna be atleast 500 so I want something that's gonna...

Well guys I got my trans out and luckaliy it's not too too serious. The splines on the friction plate are gone and they sheared off and it didn't damage my output shaft at all. My pressure plate also has some bent fingers and it hard to see that in the pictures but here is the pictures of my...

Yea that's what I was thinking I'll do that test a little later and see what happens when I start it in gear and let off the clutch...and if it is my output shaft/intermediate then the trans is toast correct? and it's time to find a used one or buy one rebuilt from TRE or something like that

I've done so much adjustment with it in the past week or so I kno it's nothing with the adjustment...and when it did happen I got on it a little bit at about 9psi to pull up a hill and a heard a noise and it came out of gear when it did happened the shifter didn't move it was still in 3rd when...

About 5 years ago pretty much the same thing happened I broke a spec clutch into 5 pieces and it was almost the same symptoms but the intermediate shaft broke in that trans and I guess took the clutch out with it...I hear you on ripping it all apart and looking at everything, but I live in the...

Yea goes in gear with the car off, but even with the car off when it's in gear the car will just roll like it's not in gear at all when it actually is

Well guys I have been having some issues with my clutch/trans and it just decided to take a crap....I was about to pull up a hill and it popped out of gear and would not go back into any gear even when the car is at a dead stop and it's in gear the car just rolls like it's not in gear at all...

Ditto on the same way with the rubber towards the BOV I was only curious b/c the rubber ring is really close to the flange on the new forge BOV but I'll do it with the ring up with some RTV as always

I've always been curious about the stock BOV gasket does the rubber ring go on the BOV side or the intercooler pipe side that's always baffled me

I understand what you are saying about the XTD clutches, I have just seen a bunch of ppl that had great results with them as long as the 6 puck unsprung disk was used....as for the air I'll triple check it again....I really wish I had a vacuum bleeder then I wouldn't have to worry about any air...

I normally see anywhere from 19-22psi in the vac...I did some reading about the vac psi and the spring and saw that some ppl used the yellow spring and it pretty much stayed opened at idle and they had to end up using the red spring I guess I'll start with the yellow spring and one shim and I'll...

And I don't kno if you guys noticed in the picture when you buy a forge BOV the way it is clocked then when you get it it's in the same position as stock I was able to use the tool that comes with a 5in grinder and bent the pins on the tool s little bit to fit in the bottom and I was able to re...

so I'm gonna be installing the recirculated model of the forge Motorsport BOV as soon as I took it out of he box the spring setup hats in it from the factory just seems like it is way to light considering I can push it all the way in with my fingers I kind of want to have he correct spring setup...

And another thing guys is there really a need for a 0-100psi fuel pressure gauge or would a 0-60psi be fine? Honestly I don't ever see myself even going over 50psi....but I was checking this one...

Yea my screws are still there so I should be able to take the gauge off and inspect it and check the screws in the back to see what's up

I kno what your saying with the gauge there is 2 Philips head screws on the back of it and if you did have the fuel lab gauge that came with the AFPR then you kno exactly what I'm talking about when I say it flops around and I could make a very good educated guess that anyone who has the fuel...

I did bench bleed my master guys and there's is deff no air in my system I know my throw out bearing has some issues as it always made noise a few months back when my clutch did get soft all of a sudden I was almost thinking the center section of my throw out bearing collapsed and in turn it was...

Ok guys so I have been having some issues with my clutch I have an ACT 2600 with a 6 puck unsprung plate and an ACT street lite flywheel....a few months ago out of no where my clutch got soft all of a sudden I replaced my Slave and master and bled it properly...and my clutch has been soft for a...

I'll pull if off tomorrow and go from there and see what happens that for the input so far guys

I was reading that heat can cause issues with the gauge now I see some gauges that are fluid filled almost all the way to the top of it and then I see others that are only filled with fluid about half way, I'm just trying to figure out what gauge I should go with???

ok guys so I have a fuel lab AFPR with the fuel lab gauge and the gauge itself is all sloppy and flops around on my regulator....I am in the market to buy a new gauge for my regulator and I was curios as to what gauge I should go with like should I go with a fluid filled gauge or a dry gauge and...

not sure if this is the place for this thread, but I will be ready to get my car tuned very shortly, and i will be in need of a place to get my car tuned and a place that I can trust enough to tune my ECM link with S/D to do a good job tuning the car. I live in North east Pennsylvania I will be...

Found a solution to my problem used a # .6 easy out and a 1/2 breaker bar and I got it out

ok so I'm in a bad spot right now one of my spark plugs just broke off in my head and the porcelain, nut and electrode came out in 1 piece so the threaded part is still in my head need to try and figure a way to get it out help me out here guys tell me what you think please

Just looks bad ass I think I may cut a hole in my hood for my waste gate tube it would be better there anyways cuz I keep burning hoses where it's at now then I start leaking oil so I'll cut s hole in my hood and do it right

looking to possibly flipping my waste gate tube and making it so it dumps out of the hood....just curious to see if anyone else has done this and how it looked and turned out some pics would be great thanks.

Well I think my pressure plate collapsed cuz I currently have an ACT 2600 in it and the pedal did have really good hard feel and out of no where it was lighter than a stock clutch so it's gonna be getting replaced

That's s good thought but I've had plenty of squealing belts before it's not s belt at all its with the starter/flywheel some way or another as soon as u bump the key and the hood is open you can hear the armiture of the starter come out then when it grabs the flywheel it will squeal and as soon...

so I have had an ACT clutch and streetlite flywheel in my car for some time now. Ever since I had this setup in anyone of my DSM's I always get a squealing/screeching noise when the starter is engaged and it's always been like that with the setup I have I tried swapping out starters 3 diff times...

Ok guys I haven't really messed with my car much since the original post. Yesterday I decided to try to figure somethings out. As for the OEM master and slave that's what I went with as for the pedals I did the test pushing it all the way down then pulling up on it and it does not come up...

There is prolly about a total of 10,000-15,000 miles on my clutch and street lite flywheel. And I see you guys talking about and mentioning the pedal assembly.....now could something go bad on the pedals and cause it to have a really light feel as opposed to it being heavy due to the 2600. Does...

Can anyone post a pic of what to check on the pedals? And could that be causing a weak clutch b/c like I said I have a 2600 in it and it was heavy as hell. And as for the bell housing bolts I noticed them a little loose about 2 weeks ago and it was separating but I tightened them back up and my...

What do you mean by check the pedal?? And I just finished installing a new slave and it is still soft and I also put in a new master I'm wondering what could of gone wrong

Yes the car still shifts just goes into gear really hard and the clutch grabs totally diff then it did before this happened. I replaced the clutch master and I have a new slave cylinder coming tomorrow. And yes all the air is out of the system I use clear tubing that I put on the bleeder so I...

Yes that is the way I did it

so I was driving my car, wasn't beating on it or anything and I went to push in the clutch and I felt something in the Pedal and all of a sudden the pedal got really soft and it's normally really hard because I do have a ACT 2600 in it. I changed out the master b/c it was leaking on the inside...

And for you guys that need help on this issue and just wiring the PLX device up. I will be taking the photos I need tomorrow and I will be posting up a detailed How-to thread in the Tech articles under electrical and wiring on the whole subject of the basic wiring, and wiring from the analog...

Darknezz7 is correct the bottom right pin on the analog output on the PLX control module is the 0-5v logger output. Yesterday I found and electrical pin In an old connector I had laying around I soldered a longer wire to that and I plugged the pin to the bottom right logger output on the PLX...