Rich, I've got you beat on multiple fronts. ;)Bought my 1st DSM new in 1990, bought a 2g in 1996. I've had a GVR4, still have the 600+ awhp Talon and a mild modded 3000GT VR-4... AND probably less than 30 posts on here.Welcome to my world.Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk.
Stoner is well respected on more than a few boards. I've seen the tracking info and the PM's. Alfredo needs to ship the part or return the money for this to be resolved.
I'm sure this info is on here somewhere already. With a gas calibrated WBO2 use 14.7 at cruise & 11.5 to 12.0 @ WOT. I didn't see much of a gain if any pushing it as lean as 12.5.I've got 1600cc and would like to bring the IDC down a bit. It might be a voltage to the pump issue. There's...
Sample submission. :) I've got the full size images and can post them here too.Hell, I could line up all 3 of my cars for a 'ménage à trois'. 3000GT VR4, Galant VR4 & the 2G. :cool:
Real Deal, I thought you lived in Terre Haute? I work in Terre Haute occasionally and have seen some nice rides there. A buddy named Robert lives there. I'm not sure if he's on this board or not. He's got a 10 second white 1G and runs the 1/8th mile track near there all the time.
Kyle parked near the rest of us Indy guys (I'm the black car behind his) & it was real interesting to see how many people stopped to take a picture of his car.You can see he posed in the parking spot to give it that "artistic" angle. Kyle, you attention slut. :D
Indy to Chicago to Norwalk to Indy. My butt is sore from driving but the car made it. :)The worst part is trying to keep E85 in the tank and keep fuel trims in line. E85 varies greatly station to station. I was lean going to Chicago then rich all the way home.A 400-500 WHP tune would...
The timing plate is a soft flat disk of metal with a notch. The notch passes through the crank sensor so the ECU knows crank position. Tell the grease monkey to bend it flat and put her back together. Tell him he better put it back on right too!
I've never heard of "ghost pedal" but it sure sounds like air in the line. Sometimes, you need to remove the slave and hold it above the master in order to get every little air bubble out of the line. You can get the slave out easier if you remove the 2 front engine mount bolts, slip the...
Things can go bad in a hurry on a turbo car at the track though.RP did say that you could blend two or more versions (I was asking about the XPR stuff at the time) to get to the viscosity you wanted.
I've had to run them just because I couldn't find anything else at the time but non "R" plugs don't reduce EMI/RFI from your ignition system. I couldn't reliably use my DSMLink logger when the BP7ES plugs were installed.Really, like Defiant said above, when the right plug is under $2 it...
I've called Royal Purple's tech support and they suggested using the XPR series or Royal Purple 21 in my car. Same stuff. XRP is the new name.The Royal Purple Race 11 = 5w20, Race 21 = 5w30 & Race 41 = 10w40.The "high performance" series of motor oils have to adhere to the automotive...
It's hard to not get spider cracking. Using a dremel grinding bit worked better for me. The drill cracks kept spreading so I switched to Aerocatch latches.http://gallery.indystars.org/d/93953-1/WWIII_Prep+003_sm.jpg
I've made both an aluminum blockoff plate (removed the entire bottom half of the TB) and used a flat peice of a Coke can. The Coke can mod is easy but it doesn't look as clean. I used the BISS &/or throttle stop switch to set the idle now.
I'm a little confused why you post questions here and not in the DSMLink forum. Everything is already answered over there. Are you using a legit copy of the chip?btw - You don't even need the MAS plugged in to start the car. Your problem lies elsewhere.
I'd install the 650cc then back down the base fuel pressure close to stock. Try to get the IDC no higher than 90%. Leave base timing at 5*. Why did you set it to 7* when your AFC is already adding timing on top of that? Logging 20* when your base is advanced means you're already at 22*...
All you need is an EPROM ECU. Your '97 ECU doesn't come with an EPROM. Maybe you already knew this. Your vehicle profile shows a near stock level car. How far do you want to go?
I don't see what your concern is with the 9.0:1. It's all in the tune really. I put 8.5:1 in the Talon and now that I know how it's reacting should have gone 9.0:1 in that car as well. Have you thought about keeping the 9.0:1's and using your money to buy a better fuel controlling ECU?
I'm not having any trouble with my 9.0:1 on my DD GT30r powered Galant. I'm hitting 80% IDC with RC550 injectors and 15 psi. No knock at all using 92 octane pump. I've since turned it up a bit to 18 psi but haven't datalogged IDC. I have some 770cc ready to go in but need a better fuel...
It was in an SAE publication. The closest thing I can find is a link to the actual publication here:
http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/922216I don't feel like buying it so :p~3rd paragraph down they state the regression for Research octane at 92% and Motor octane at 48%. When you...
Can you show me where you got this formula 'cause I've alway heard the octane didn't add linearly? I got my info from a buddy who has a Masters in Combustion Engineering.
:rolleyes: Where'd you get that info? If the higher octane allowed you to run more boost and then you couldn't avoid being a lead foot then yes, I'll agree.Octane boosters are not really gaining you much. Check the label. 104 is just it's name. No amount of it will ever raise the octane...
The GM MAF in blow through doesn't match the stock MAS exactly, I know that for a fact on my car. Praises to DSMLink for allowing me to tweak the airflow table!
My first ebay intercooler was bent too and the seller tried to blame it on FedEx ground when it was clearly damaged prior to shipment. It took 2 months but the seller did make good and sent me what I had actually ordered (first one was also a tube-&-fin).
You'll want to lay the gasket onto the head and make sure it doesn't protrude into the combustion chamber. ESPECIALLY if you go with a Cometic, even if you order the larger bore size. The Mitsu MLS only comes in one bore size and I used it on my .020 over bored GVR4. It looked fine.
You don't give a whole lot of info. Was this car worked on then something happened?If you look into the valve cover through the oil fill hole, you can see oil squirting from the top of the rocker onto the cam lobe.Why did Firestone replace the starter? Didn't the motor turn over at all...
Throttle Body
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MD615958 base idle set screw (BISS)
MD614948 BISS screw
MD614150 BISS rubber cap
MD608806 BISS o-ring (#5)Oops, I think the part numbers are the same for a '90 NT. They sure look the same to me.
I've looked at the -044 and it's a great pump. Lots of people are using them on 600HP cars. I'm not sure how much farther you'd want to push it though. Bosch makes a little higher rated version of the -044 too. It's a "B 261 205 413" rated 200 LPH at 116PSI & ~750HP. Of course it costs more...
It was a little rich between shift but not too bad. The TIAL seemed to work better around town in daily driver mode than a crushed and vented 1G BOV did. I had cams too so vacuum wasn't as high which probably kept the BOV from sucking in too much air at idle. There's a gazillion posts about...
I run ~40psi base pressure with my PTE 1600cc injectors to clean up idle just a little. DSMLink handles those monsters just fine. Idle is stock-like even with FP3 cams too.
I had to get a tranny back into a car and couldn't wait for the ACT "yellow spring" version street disk (I was sent the wrong one). I had my old factory disk relined by a local shop with what looked exactly like the old ACT disk material.It doesn't grip or hold the same as the ACT. I should...
Dejontool used to make a bracket with switches that could tell when you were in 1st gear. Dave has dropped that part though. You could make your own switch bracket and still use his dual stage boost controller though.Hell, I need to do this with my 2G. I've got too much power for 1st gear...
I ran a TIAL BOV & factory MAF for years without a problem. It's the same old vented BOV talk that's been around for 15+ years now. There's plenty of info out there on why it will and will not work.I'll second the Shep tranny at that power level. That plus some good stiff engine mounts...
I've got a pretty large custom Navistar truck intercooler on my '95. I think it's core size is 26 x 13 x 3. It fits but it's pretty tight at the inlet/outlets. The pipe touches the bumper cover hard.
I wouldn't do it. Try to find a Topline distributor and get their turbo pistons. The top ring lands are very thin on NA pistons. Any detonation could break a ring land loose.
It seems like you have built up other parts of the car. The JAM springs/retainers wouldn't cost too much and are a little stiffer. I went back and forth about this too when I rebuilt my GVR4 motor. I went with the JAM single springs, Ti retainers, value line Ferrea +1mm valves.
There was a dealer TSB on this problem way back in '96. There's a check valve that can be installed and maybe new squirters. You could probably find the details on the original www.dsm.org site but I think the digest search tool is broken. Find someone with a DSMBMCD as it also has the entire...
How much is a "little bit"? Did you have the block decked? There's a spec for this so you better ask your machinist. Sorry, I can't find the measurement.My Wiseco 9.0:1 / GVR4 2.0L don't come up above the top of the block and neither did my Ross 8.5:1 / Talon 2.0L block.