I have gotten the cable to work fine with mhiscan but that program defenently needs some work so I would like to get evoscan.Since this is not for my car but for a friends who live an hour away I want to make sure the program will connect to the cable without issue the first time I drive...

Not right now but I have just read that I need to use a usb driver to make it a virtual com port.I have downloaded the driver from ross-tech so I am hoping I am ready to go.I guess mhi scan will see an extra com drive when the cables setup properly.

I am driving out to help a friend who owns the 2g and I got a couple questions about setting up mhiscan to work with a usb vag-com cable just to make sure I can get it all going the first time.First I noticed there are only 2 options for cable ports on mhiscan, com1 and com3. No usb option...

So what I think I'm going to do is buy a 409.1 vag-com cable off ebay and try Ceddy's mhiscan. I like the idea of logging knock on a 2g.Thanks for the help everyone :thumb:

I noticed the Vag Com KKL cable's on ebay are all usb, so if I get a usb palm I should be good right?I defenently want to log with a palm.

So mmcd won't work?Or maybe I mis understood something, its possible

So those cables work fine then?I could have sworn I read somewhere that they did not work but if people are using them than they must work lol.So I could just get me one of these and use mmcd then right?

Where are you guys getting your cables from?

I heard that one doesent work?

So I would buy these 2 and use a laptop to log? Can a plam be used for this setup?I found these on limitless.co.nz

I guess pocket logger is gone now, what is the next best thing? Other than finding a used pocket logger that is.Thanks

anyone have any ideas or is the safc no good?

I am trying to check the tune on a car and the safc will not let me select or even highlight the "low setting".Basically on the selection screen it will jump right over "low setting" and go to the next option. I can go into and change the high setting along with ne point and everything else...

I got it figured out, it was the idle stop switch. I didn't think there was one in the 3s since there is no switch on the firewall side of the throttle body like a dsm, it's inside the tps. I adjusted the tps and it works fine now. I guess the tps moved a bit (like .5%) during the vac reduction...

First this is happening on my Stealth but it pretty much shares the same sensors, ecu ect.. so maybe someone here can help.This started after my vacuum reduction and egr removal. Before my wide band would max lean every time I engine braked which makes sence since the injectors cut out but...

Where are your timing marks when you are doing your testing? If your pistons are in the wrong position when you pump air in it will just piss out the tail pipe and you will not build much more pressure than you are describing. I know this has been asked but never answered .For you too be...

This is the only guy I'd trust with my next dsm.

More pics, do you have any idea how long it took me to make that one? ROFL Seriously I just had some extra time at work and decided to have some photoshop fun. I'm thinking of throwing in a 4g63 into my stealth next time :thumb:

What do you think? It was accually easier than you would think ;) .

The fusable link? Its the one that has 2 10mm bolts holding it in. As far as I know only mitsu sells them (well at least around here). My buddy called several auto stores and they don't carry it, its not your average fuse. He just left the car for tonight, unfortunately the dealerships are not...

Well my buddy has blowen his Altenator fuse and does not have a replacement. He wants to see if he can find one at a junk yard but needs his car to drive to find one. Even if he ordered one from mitsu he needs the car for the mean time since there not carried in stock. He doesent really want to...

Whats your wastegate spring psi? you could run 10 psi I would say safley, anymore and you might heat soak. Just watch your logger very closely.

well the fuel filter is a year old (about 6000km's on it). My fuel pressure is constant from full boost at 4500 to 7000. It seems to rise at the same rate as my boost gauge toping out at 50psi with 10-11psi of boost.My logs also dont show any drastic change at anytime during my logs.

Any other ideas:confused: ? I am ready to drive this thing off a clif:beatentodeath: :beatentodeath:

been replaced already :thumb:

Well I am about ready to seriously smash this car into a pole. I got a small sputter at 5000 rpm and anything higher than. Its not bad but enough to lose all performance past 5000 and it shakes the needle on my boost gauge. My boost gauge shakes before it starts to sputter (@4500 rpm). I say its...

Well I am still have issues and I am ready to drive this thing into a tree :beatentodeath: . I haveInstalled my wastegate and 680's :thumb: Swapped the following with known working ones... mas coilpack transistor plug wires ecu cas and I have bought new 6es's gapped to .028 I...

I have already put the old cas back on thinking the same as you. Also I did run my cas 180* out when I did my head rebuild and it would not start, I guess it sparks at btd so thats not the case since it runs normal up to 5000rpm (not 4000 like i sayed before its accually 5000) except for the...

the o-ring does not leak and is 1 year old. Its set to 800rpm. It idles fine except for the occasional miss

I have done a boost test and its theres no leaks. And I guess its because of the 2g elbow but the 2 bolts dont slide off, they hit the elbow and the bracket doesent have enough room to slid off and clear the cas stud. But unfortunatly its not a boost leak. I took the tb off yesterday and checked...

ya for sure. any 13g, 14b, 16g, 18g and 20g will bolt right on to a 1g. That would be a nice upgrade too.

naw I block the isc and fiav and egr a year ago. This started happening when I swapped cas. And yes I swapped them back after thinking it was the cas I put in that messed it up but it still stalls :(Ya you gotta unblot the tb. There is a support bracket that attatches the cas stud to the tb...

Why do you want to bolt a t25 to your 1g :confused: . You know a t25 is a major downgrade from a 14b right? And I beleave you would need new oil and water lines and i think a new lower intercooler pipe to bolt it on since thats what the 2g guys need to bolt a 14b on.

Well i was trying to fix a 4500rpm sputter by swapping cas to see if thats the problem. Like you know The throttle body needs to be unbolted and slid off to do this. Anyways I put it all together and now everytime I let off the gas to come to a stop or whatever (just letting the revs drop in...

Would installing a 94 n/t auto altenator into a 91 turbo 5 speed cause any issues?

Is the pressure at the pump suppose to be the same as at the rail? Would 70 psi at the pump be normal on a stock 1g turbo fpr at idle with or without the vac line in?

accually i messed that up. my trims are at 80% so the o2 says rich and is removing fuel. So would that be possible?

I wish. I got new wires and plugs in gapped to .028, I swapped coil packs and the transistor with a known working one, checked base timing and its set at 5* of advance and no change at all :( .

I didnt think its from a bad turbo but i noticed some white smoke after reving it in neutral. I did check the whole ignition system, boost tested and comp tested without any answers.Oh and the turbo has some side to side but no in and out

Can a bad turbo cause an engine to shake and sputter at 4000rpm? Say if it boosts smooth till the 4000rpm sputter? What about reving it in neutral and it still sputters at 4000?

sorry, i mean .028

I got new 6es's gapped to .28 and I am in the middle of making a boost tester for my new turbo. I got t-bolts on all couplers and my vac is 20 at idle so It should be ok but I know I still need to boost test. Would A boost leak really cause the needle to shake under boost? It shakes real fast...

My boost gauge needle shakes when i boost past 4000rpm. What would you figure would cause this? The car doesent shake at all and it does seem to boost fine except that at about 4500 it sputters and breaks up. But I can still keep accelerating past 4500 it just sputters bad. It sputters at 4500...

I know what you are saying but i think i worded it wrong. under vac i am still pig rich. The ecu sees super lean in the o2 sensor i am thinking from the exaust leak and dumps fuel in making me pig rich. I am not lean at any time.To get my fuel trims close to 100% i need to take away 10-20% in...

If it was the fpr wouldent my o2 see rich and the ecu would try to remove fuel not add tons more? Is it possible that I got 2 different problems? one when i cruise and one when i boost? It doesent make sence to me that the o2 reads lean and adds fuel in closed loop and in open loop im still pig...

No i dont. These are still stock injectors, I havent got my 680's in yet. There is something wrong for sure. I guess since it happens in open loop the o2 isnt the problem so the exaust leak souldent be the issue i suppose.I also rerouted my pvc and breather to a catch can. but My intake...

right I forgot about that. What else could it be? I did just finish installing my frank 4 turbo, 2g mani, intake and o2 housing. I know I got some exaust leaks in the manifold that i need to get welded (egt hole drilled and I dont have one, i got a bolt with some rtv copper in it now) could that...

196-199. I am thinking of unhooking un o2 to see if limp mode improves it. Could that be it?

What would cause an ecu to dump way to much fuel in? Say enough that on stock injectors I would be able to remove 30-35% fuel and not knock. My ecu is not fried and I am not leaking boost. thanks