I'm suprised the wire didnt just go in, change colors, and go right back out.

That's an excellent idea. After taking your pictures, don't be afraid to tell them that the pistons need to be replaced as well - if they're scored to living hell.

Has anyone bought this kit? I'm interested in it, but leery at the same time.

The common number that I've seen is 8500rpm. I've heard of few that rev to 9000rpm at the track. Either way, I hope you'll have a girdle if you decide to go the 2.3 route.

If you're buying an intake manifold, you should buy something from Magnus or AMS. Something that is known throughout the community to make solid numbers. A lot of R&D went into the two that I named and they're proven. So they cost a few hundred more on average - you're getting a quality piece.

I've been looking for a beehive kit, and until now a dual setup was the only way to go. Not anymore. I'd like to know more information about it before I go rushing to buy a kit.http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/

I don't understand what you mean by this. The lifters (aka lash adjusters) look alike, however they are manufactured by two different companies, hence the Topline and ITM branding. I'm questioning the longevity, quality, and performance issues that might be different or the same between the...

I've been researching revised lifters (3g) and see a difference in pricing between two brands. These two differing brands are Topline (extremepsi, slowboy) and ITM (ebay, partsdinosaur). The prices for the Toplines are around $150, while ITM would run about $85. Everyone is looking for a...

Reference the picture for this please:YELLOW: Those holes should match up with the OEM holes. Mine does not. They are spaced too far apart (both are about 1/8" to 3/16" off).GREEN: These holes are to attach this frame to the OEM frame.RED: I would need to cut the OEM frame (that...

I called ExtremePSI. Customer service rep opened a box and it was the same thing. There are clips that hold the bottom of the OEM frame in and you fasten the frame with the two top screws. The one I have and ExtremePSI's are the same.Who has something that is a DIRECT REPLACEMENT for the...

I bought a gauge holder for a 2g over the internet to hold two gauges right infront of me, on the lower corners of the instrument panel. The frame has 4 holes to fasten it to the OEM frame with screws going threw each of the holes. I don't believe that it is an Autometer frame.I was...

Here's a visual (the disconnected belt is for the A/C, which you won't need but it illustrates where you'll be missing a belt):

It really depends how much material was removed when the head was decked. Only you or a machinist inspecting the head would be able to find out what you have to work with. Normally people use this formula:.000 decked on block + .000 decked on head = .000 combined + .000 thickness of OEM HG...

If you want a turbo that's capable of that sort of power, go to Precision. They have great products, warranty their stuff, and you'll only spend a hundred or so more (look for their deals). I can't tell you how pleased I am with their stuff.

There are a number of things that could be wrong. Since you aren't getting any CELs, it says one of two things. Either something is screwy between the TCU and the transmission (no communication - wiring/hardware problem) or it's a mechanical problem with the transmission. It's not clear how...

Normally with a DSM having that much power, you'll have a turbo that doesn't spool until 3500rpm (depending on your mods). As long as you don't mash on the gas, you should see fairly decent gas mileage. I've seen some people at 25mpg+. As for the driveability, it depends on a lot of things...

I won't even think about using NAPA. Nothing against them as a company, but I'd only trust a builder that is known locally for good work - aka craftsmanship. Call up someone in your area that you've heard about and ask them if they can do the work, with the only problem that you can only drop...

Pics would really help the situation. Since you messed up the threads, I'll assume only the threads are just damaged enough - not totally destroyed. You would have to find out the size/thread count on the bolt and purchase a tap and dye set. Find the dye that corresponds with the bolt and...

Mandrel bends have the same diameter throughout the bend. Crush bends either are rippled or have a discontinuation of the diameter, crushing the pipe inward. Mandrel bends are virtually unobstructed.

And I think it looks tacky. It's also awkward to look at.

To me, the most acceptable knock count is zero. But that's just me.

8500rpm is where the test was conducted. I've now seen the video, and it's hideous. All I have to say is look for a beehive design to be coming out in the near future.

Basically, you'll want to O-ring if you want to eliminate the headgasket from popping on you. If you plan on running an insane amount of boost, you'll definately want to O-ring (or weld the head to the block - I doubt you'll run 250lbs). The down side to O-ringing is that it will make the next...

Not at my dealership that I frequent. I tell the guy what I want and he can look at either a 1g or 2g diagram. I told him about this practice and the only thing we could come up with is that they have no clue what the difference is between a GSX and an ESi.

The manifold looks almost like a Magnus manifold. The only prominant differences I can see are the velocity stacks and the plenum is a bit different. I'm sure you'll see gains from it over the factory manifolds, but velocity stacks really are the bread and butter for SMIMs. As for the...

It sounds like you want to know how to do this, so I'll explain. For my relocation in my ole RS-T, I removed the battery. Then, I cut off the leads for the battery terminals off the wiring. After that, I stripped all the wiring. Finally for under the hood, I ran a long, large gauge wire from...

If you have a welder, a drill with metal hole saw bits, and some time, you can fabricate one yourself and bolt it directly to the throttle body. I would use the metal/mesh gasket material to seal it off.

I've heard through the grapevine that Supertech dual valve springs have been tested and a video has shown that they are causing troubling problems high during high rpms. Supposedly, they are "heavy" and the spring stays compressed as the lobe heads up. This separates the retainer from the...

Yes it will trap heat. But I don't think it would be something to be concerned about. Many people have an enclosed wire cover. Some don't use one at all. Dirt and debris will get in using that cover. You'll just have to clean it out over time. Nothing will/should get into your spark plug...

He's probably looking to use one for theft protection. I'll be doing the same.

He will not need to invert, since he has a 97-99. On a 95-96, you need to. The article I posted from Magnus explains this.

If you want reliability, I would say stay with a 2.0L. You aren't looking for displacement to spool a large turbo. You can add performance in other forms for very little money and still keep it reliable. Additionally, you're not looking for huge numbers, so why sink more money in machining...

I agree with your statement on ambition. And by all means, more power to him. Please look at the statement for the newbie section, trying to run 10s before running a 12. If you don't have the capability to research, then you don't have the capability to do build it. It's just like planning...

And that is exactly why you're getting flack. Why expect people to waste their time typing to you and explain everything, when you aren't showing the effort to go out and learn concepts on your own? No one in their right mind would waste their time doing this: :beatentodeath: . Questions...

You're in the newb forum, asking what parts will get you to 750hp while listing a turbo that clearly will not hit that number. Also, you either swapped the block and crank around or you didn't know how to put together (in words) a 2.1L. You asked for advice. These guys gave you their opinions...

You can use your stock ECU, but you'll probably get some misfire codes. In order to stop this, you'll need to change one of the values your ECU sees. So you'll probably either need an AFC, get an Eprom, or go with a standalone. More information can be seen here (1g in 2g, end of article)...

If you followed the wire and did not find a connection to unclip, then I guess you must snip snip. I've never thought about taking it out. Then again, I'm biased. A knowledgable DSMer that's done a tranny swap probably will help you with this one.

I know you have the 420a powerplant, but I'm sure you can look over the 4g63 swap in vfaq.com to understand things a bit more. Additionally, I know there has to be a writeup in this forum that will definately help you. I hate to redirect you, but 2gnt.com is a forum that is setup strictly for...

Sounds like you'll need to pull the transmission at least, unless it's coming from the head - from the gasket to the valvecover. Hopefully it's from the headgasket up and not your seal. Those pics might be worth a looksee. As the members above stated, clean it in order to pinpoint where it's...

Like antlip stated, just bend the power steering (that's what it is) behind the bracket and mount your intercooler in front of the bracket. The A/C shouldn't be a problem, unless it's massive. Then you'll just want to move the IC further away from it. Good luck with the install.

So in short. You've had the clutch replaced twice - which you're now running a Centerforce dual fricition - and you've had the master cylinder replaced twice. Now the car will go into gear but you can't get it out of gear when boosting?

I don't think you're going to find it if IPT doesn't readily sell one. I'm sure they could make you one, but that will cost you.

I have never seen one. And I've never heard of one breaking.

That's the entire point. It solidifies the engine to keep it in place, so that it doesn't move. If the engine wants to move and it can't move as much as it once did with the stock mounts, then you're going to have vibrations. The only way you can really make it stop is to have your balance...

It's for emissions. Your crankcase has vapors that need to get bled off. The PCV releases these gases that build up. If you have a catch can and a breather, then you can vent these to the atmosphere. The PCV is a one way only valve that allows these built up gasses to escape the crankcase...

Hate to break this to you but he has an automatic transmission, which obviously weighs more. Additionally, with all of the brackets that will probably be left on, it would be more around 125lbs - which is not symetrical. I would not want to attempt to remove that above my head/body and only be...

Your fronts are way more important than the rears. Your rears will help you stop some. I don't think upgrading them would be worth even 200 dollars, unless it gives you the piece of mind that you've got them back there. Invest 95% of your money for stopping on the front brakes, then buy some...

You will need a jack and will have to remove it by dropping it down - unless you have a cherry picker and wish to pull the motor too. Make sure that you have another jack or something to prop the engine up, since you only have one motor mount on the drivers side. The other three motor mounts...

Is the block still in the car? I'm not familiar with what the situation is, but I would put it on an engine stand and turn it upside down while trying to use a magnet. I don't think that you could do it with an automotive magnet, unless it's strong.