$2000Super Clean 1g dsm chassis. The car has zero rust. Get it cheap with all that it has. Priced to sell. Need gone. Alabama title in hand.Chassis has the following:•3.5" 12x24 kinetic intercooler core with 3" inlet/outlet•Arp wheel studs•Smoked headlights and tail lights•All...

Your not reading the diagram:beatentodeath: your just looking at the linesThe top port can either be "vented to the atmosphere" or have "air added for adjustable boost control" (ie from a solenoid that pushes the gates valve closed to spool the turbo faster, the advantage an ebc has over a...

Come on guys....if you cant bring in more than 20lbs with the vac line off the gate...then the problem lies in the gate! (since you did boost leak tests and exhaust leak tests)!the top port of the external gate is for an electronic boost controller!hook your mbc up to the side port...

that could very well be your problem...do you have bigger injectors? fuel pump? how much boost? give some more info

Yes. Just the manifold

Well yeah,your headgasket could be blown at the oil and coolant galley's thus mixing it....your head gasket could be sealing good around the cylinders giving you a good reading.

you can get an actual gasket from dsmparts.com but you could use some ultra grey also...as for the oil pick up bit...if its more than an inch you got problems...if not your good

yeah thats what i intended to write... but whoops....changed

No...plx interfaces with pocketlogger software....and the best thing to do is to replace the stock o2 and run the narrow band simulation wire from the unit to the o2 wire @ the ecu...i wouldnt cut the wire because you might want to take the wideband off one day, just strip back the insulation...

OH, and just because it flutters doesnt meen its not working...

I have the RS and have no problem...the valve doesnt sound like its opening all the way untill you give it a rev...dont understand why though because it sees more of a load under boost than in nuetral free revving...did you ever take the adjustment screw all the way out?

what color is the wire

I dont know the shop that did it...but shops do mess up from time to time...it would suck if it is the case....rule out the rust and keep a close eye on your oil level...and only time will tell

Have you seen it in person? have you felt it with your two fingers? Man dont sit there and say you know for a fact that its not oil...if its a brownish color that looks like choclate milk than it very well could be oil

If its brownish then its most likely oil...If the head wasn't decked properly then your head gasket might not seat properly causing the oil to mix with the coolant and putting a new headgasket on will not fix it...it will need to be redecked...when you say new motor are you meaning a rebuild?

did you drill the whole far enough in...dont go too far but you need a good 1/4 inch....if not then you will have to take it to a machine shop if you cant get it out...and you want to use an easy out bolt extractor

Sunday Nov. 12 is the date for the show and go. If any of you guys are close come on out...Here is a link to all the specifics...http://www.importfaceoff.net/montgomery.htm

Thanks for the comment but, my venting isnt causing it to run rich throughout the gear.

how much boost do you want to run with the 60 trim?

Very good info, but...... 11.1 afr shouldnt yeild knock at all...and you should be able to go 11.6 or 11.7 with no knock.

Your not going over kill on the injectors but 20lbs is pushing it...i would stay at 17-18lbs without a front mount.

you can get about 23 or 24 psi out of that turbo to hold till redline with supporting mods...650's would be the way to go...not that harder to tune...deffinately get a wideband for an accurate afr...also its better to have the 650's so your not close to duty cycle on the 550's..a logger and safc...

Thats cool...this was on 111 octane...i kept fowling plugs out...so i i gapped my plugs to .25 and now the car runs pretty rich on the gas...i'm just going to leave the 55shot fuel pill in and bump the n20 pill to the 75 and be done with it. my timing advance 24 deg.

that is correct...eventually the outside of your hood will get start turning a faint brown

Zex wet kit install. I ran the fuel supply off the regulator. I also routed the purge to the intercooler...

No. I was making reference to the link that was added.

Its really simple...first the fans have a black and blue wire. So find the wires that go to the stock fan (they too will be black and blue) just attatch them accordingly black with black and blue with blue and solder them...as far as the mounting of the fans you can do it like this: get long zip...

spool up is going to be a little longer on a 50 trim than a 16g if its a journal bearing

The noise your hearing is most likely the compressor blades hitting the housing...precision is a good name...if its not a ball bearing then the only thing you will suffer is spool up...and the 650's you have will not be able to maximize that turbo without running out of duty cycle...

Just tell them make a model and they will get you the right hose.

Actually they are indeed 6bolt. i did a clutch on mine and its a 6bolt...and evo 3's came with a TD05H-16G-7 turbo with 9.0.1 comp and 266 h/p...a substantial difference from a 2g..i dont know if the guy i got it from fabbed up the mounts, but per AMS i have an evo 3 motor...and i think this is...

Yeah, different compresion though us spec 7.8.1 and evo 3 is 9.0.1...looking for evo 3 motors

I know that the evo 3 had 266 out the box. I am wanting some info from someone who actually had or knows someone who had or has an evo 3 motor who has modded it and what they are doing as far as h/p without building it. Please only post relevant to the thread. Thanks -Sheldon

deffinately check for vacume leaks and dont worry about the maf to filter adapter its not a big deal...

Venting the gate will just help with spool up a little. If your running a 50 trim with 20-25psi then i would deffinately recommend an external wastgate...a 40mm..In an answere to your question...no, an internal will not flow as much as an external

*************** you deffinately will not want to full throttle your car at 20 psi and a silencer! you will blow out all the exhaust gaskets and lessen the life of the turbo temendously

that fluid is fine... the yellow wire goes to the power steering...it should have like a male but connector that the yellow wire goes to...the plugs look to be egr and fuel pump tester where does the vacuum hose come from?

check your vacume line to your fuel preasure regulator...

injectors might be stuck open..flooding the car...pull the rail off and test them

here's my advice... make sure the wastgate flapper is ported...will eliminate boost creep if you do all the bolt ons...and if i were you i would bump it up to 20lbs and get 650 cc inj...it would be reliable and a little quicker...you need a wideband and logger in order to get a descent tune on...

what he said^^^deffinately get some pics and we will help...also use carb cleaner...its less harsh if it gets on your paint...the toob might go to the boost selenoid but get some pics for accuracy

very nice!!

putting a front mount on isnt that difficult,....but its not whistling dixie...make sure you have all the tools necesary to do it and you'll be good...

well i had this kit from my 3rd gen eclipse that was just sitting there b/c i supercharged it and then blew it up so i figured i'd put it on the awd...spool is like instant...runs lik 11.8 to 12.1 afr with no knock...jdm evo 3 motor put down 361 power and 362 torque @ 21psi and a 55shot...

just awsome man!!! like that extreme front mount.

you can actually pry the plastic back enought to get a gear wrench in there...you will need to take the trunk cover hinges off because they hold the plastic to the car...

try pressing the clutch fork.

weld a bung on the d/p and install the o2

did you check your pads? get you some non abs brakelines from the junk and do away with that abs bullshit...then if it still persists, check your mastercylinder for leaks

just fixing to add that :thumb: