Thank you for the help. I did search the forums through the search function, and I went scrolling through this section to see if I culd find anything relivent. The NGK BK5RE-11s are they 13/16" plugs, or 5/8" because I cant fit 13/16" spark plug socket into the spark plug holes of the valve cover.
OK, so I searched through a lot of threads, and couldn't find the best spark plugs to use on a stock 2G N/T. I grab the NGK BPR6ES' cause thats what I use on my Talon, but since they are a 13/16" spark plug I can't fit a 13/16" socket down to put the plugs in. So what is the preffered 5/8" spark...
Car looks to be coming along great! Ive got to ask...what is up with the chamber in the IC piping? Ive seen it done before but never ventured to ask why its done, and what benifit's it "provides"...sorry to get a little o.t. :D
Those pics you snapped look the same way that my t-belt looked when I had the timing off a couple teeth. I didnt try to turn mine over at all because the t-belt looked like it had too much slack, so I re-did the belt, and re-checked timing marks (cams were off) so when I re-timed it the belt was...
ROFL YOU don't knife edge the crank, you send it to a specific engine shop that offers knife edging as a service, and they cut the crank, and balance it so its all good when you get it back.
No trying to be a smartass but how does grounding it closer to the crank make it better considering its a Piezo crystal in the knock sensor that when pressure is exerted upon it it releases electricity. I would thing that the ground wouldnt matter as long as its clean due to its only completing...
SBR has a nice stage 1 stroker kit for $1300. It comes with 2.3L crank, new or reman'd which ever you want. Your choice of rods, and pistons, as well as Clevite main/rod bearings. I personally like the ACL tri-metal bearings. They stand the test of being beat on, due to the steel backing, and...
Super ZStreet, or Modified did a test with a stock cat, test-pipe, and high flow cat. The test pipe only made +1hp vs the cats. If you face a fine I'd grab a hi-flow one, and you will never notice a difference, besides in your wallet that one time you get fined.
The 044s are -6AN fittings, and that pic that you linked is an 6AN to 8AN connector. It threads into the 044, and steps up the fitting to an -8AN so you can run -8AN lines. If thats not what your asking, then Im not sure what you are asking.Hope i was able to help. If not re word it, and Ill...
What kind of mods do you have? Any management? Fuel? Id say you can run them on stock boost 12-14psi with management, and running it a little richer then normal down around 11.0:1. Or if you can check knock count, then tune it till there is no knock, and your good to go.
Magnaflow has a "stock" muffler on eBay for $82 I believe. Its a 3" inlet, and two 2.5" outlets. Its great cause it sounds great with a low rumble when cruising, and its nice if you live in places with strict exhaust fines, cause it looks stock :D
Ok I've been making a list on my PC, and I'll post it up here. I'm nearly finished, just trying to make it easy to navigate to find TQ specs. reguarding; Year, model (AWD/FWD), ect...and making it alphebetical.
OH snap Bullett's here. LOLThanks bro, Ill do that. Yes I drive around 70-75 on the highway with this one, because my turbo'd 1Gs got me too many tickets, and I'm trying to get my rediculious incurance rates down, so old lady driving...sorta ;)
Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but well I figured I do something crazy, and search first haha!Well I know the SRT4 trans wont bolt-up (my original question), but I wonder if the gears would work in the 420A trans? I like my 99 RS as a DD, but I hate the gearing of it cause going 75mph...
Very clean DSM! Nice passes. If you want to stay with street tires I'd atleast swap from the Fuzion's. I personally think they are garbage. I had them on my old Talon, and traction was laughable. The Falken RT-615s, and BFG G-Force( I think thats the name of the BFGs) are nice a sticky street...
See thats why I love ARP. Thats something I would do. Because once it begins to stretch it loses strength. Always measure bolts instal when they are this important.
That quote is straight off FFWD Connection.It also goes on to state that Darren (owner), and others have used the Groden's in their street driven DSM's without problem's.I whould listen to Tim. Actually I have, and he has given me invaluable information, and help for my project.As...
That looks sexy Tom! I was looking at these along ime ago, but I've been thinking about a nice aftermarket honda radiator. Where did you get the new stock rubber for the radiator supports? I can't wait to see this running.Oh and for an idea to combate any over heating issues get a one-way...
I can't see it backing up unless something is clogging it. There is continual flow of oil while the engine is running, so oil won't just "chill" in the oil return line.
I'd stay away from Pauter's they are heavy for rod's. Crower or Eagle are good choices.I do believe TunaTalon that ACL stopped making tri-metal's awhile ago...unless they have started up again with them.To the OP: I'd say you might gain some power (but not nearly as much as if you had...
You don't need new rods. Id say have yours magnafluxed, and if they check out then have them shot peened for added surface strengthening. You water pump, and tensioners are good then, but I would take care of the rest of the T-belt/serp. belts. When the time comes for cams, and springs I...
Depends on years your asking about.
1990 N/T heads had smaller coolant passages, 1991-1994 N/T & 1990-1994 Turbo heads are all the same except the camshafts.Also there should be a plug on the NT heads where the oil feed line would be on the turbo'd heads.As far as 2G N/T & turbo'd heads you...
Stock rods are fine if you know what you are doing. My buddy Jimmy bought a 6-bolt from the junkyard, and is running 10.9s...oh, and he didn't do anything to it besides new gaskets, and fluids.To the OP, I'd say shot peen your 1G rods while they are out. Deck the head, and block to assure a...
My buddy Kyle Cim. did mid 11s on a small 16G, so with that said. I say a good tune, and lots a practice. Example: Because you could be give a car that ran 9s, and you 15s with it because of lack of experience.
Heres how your suppose to torque them...Wow Tom look at you getting your thread out to everyone :D HAHATom did a great walk through on his build, and if you check his thread out you shouldn't have a problem with doing this.To the OP: Nice s/n is suit's you ;)
Yeah I know they aren't the bolt up style...actually I'm not sure why I used the 4-bolt as an example, since the axle fell out of the pumpkin lol, but I was more wondering what/if anything was done to the internals of the rear end, or if they are running it in stock form, minus obviously the axles.
Its one of my buddy's cars...thats actually for sale lol. The pictures that eBay is showing is actually how it looks in person on the car. Ill call him, and see if he can grab an up close pic of it for me.
Remember that when the car is running oil is being pumped through the motor so there will be less in the pan. Are there any dents on the oil pan? Did you add in the correct amount of oil? If those awnsers are "no" then "yes" I'd say its fine :D
Yes Anthony that would be my awnser, BUT to you I will say this...You have spent lots of time searching for everything E3 to compliment each other, and your questioning me on making your 2G elbow flow well with your 1G TB?;)
Well you want it to match because if the entrance to the TB is larger then the elbow low pressure pockets exist (where the 2 holes for idle are), and you want the air to flow as evenly & smoothly as possible.It most likely decrease in size is to increase velocity, then the air can quickly...
They do the same thing...keep large pieces of debris(sp?) out of your oil system. Its not rocket science now :D I don't see where one will improve flow over the other, or where one restrict's flow...its more or less just a screen over a metal tube.
Just drill out the hole a little here's something for refference... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151349475-post33.html
Whole thread...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/276707-project-rely-ability-6-bolt-rebuild.htmlI think you might benifit a good deal from...
I have no first hand experience with this, but I would think talking to the guys at JMF would shed light on this. But the drag probably is more towards flowing air in high RPMs.
I would do a couple flushs of the whole system. Replace the pump, t-stat, temp. sensor, ect...PS: Ive seen worse...I've seen the fins on the pump have been completely gone.OMG
Any available bolt hole that it won't bottom out in, and has the same thread pitch will do. Because all that the knock sensor does if have a piezo crystal in it, that when detonation occurs pressure is exerted upon the crystal, and voltage is produced.
Whats that? Stage ninerrr suck your face off turbo? Thats the sickest thing that was ever sick! HAHAAhhhh it cracks me up when I say what I have, and an idiot ricer asks me, " So what stage is that?"WTF:barf: