I run a high pressure Hobbs switch in the meth pressure line wired to the idle switch. When the pressure comes up on the meth system in pulls the fuel out to compensate for the meth injection. In my case it's around 20%. I suppose you could use the alt maps to make it a finer tune, but this...
Why? It works, I run 4-5 degrees more timing and 3-4 more psi (28-30 on meth vs. 24-25 without) than I can without it. It's cheap and the kits are really simple. I run a fail safe through Link that if the pump dies it adds a ton a fuel to save the motor.Why not? Maybe you don't have a way...
I have the factory sunroof in my 91 tsi. It looks like it was all done at the factory when the car was built. I also have that stupid wind deflector thingy and the sun shade. I don't think they are that rare
You will make more power with Link and and a Wide band on a 14b than you will with a 16g and a hack job. Link is now cheaper than a 16g..... So how about that for saving money
It seems to be a common problem, I figured it was just part of the deal. But I suppose I should get ahold of him even if it's just for a shift point change
You should buy a real converter someday, the last Yank that I bought go a 4l80 was 1100, and that was just a street car.... Auto cars live and die on the converter, not a place to cheap out.
A burned chip for the TCU will adjust shift points as well as shift firmness. That being said.... My chip didn't give me full line pressure like it is supposed to. The shift points worked great but I still had to do the blue wire mod to get it to full line pressure.
While 150 sounds damn fishy. I picked up a lot of power by going to a meth injection system. More than 50. But it's not just slap it on and leave the tune alone. Meth allows you add boost and timing that you couldn't on pump alone. It's about the only way to get these holsets to run in there...
I ran that exact setup last year, 22 psi was all it was good for. That was with 90+% IDC and a 625 meth nozzle. I have a set of 950's now and all is better.
I think that pie cutting has its place. But if you can buy a mandrel bend that fits, IMO it looks/works better. One example is the 3" V-band down pipes. You can pie cut the heck out of a something or you a buy the ATP 120 mandrel bend and get a nice clean look. Takes way less time too :)...
It's on the fleece site in the electronics section.As far as $1000 being too much, I think it is not. I would not compare a setup like this to your typical "budget" Holset build (like mine). And you really can't compare it to the standard turbo's that flow in this range either, as they are...
Rusted cylinder walls from meth injection? That's a new one.As far as usage goes, I go through about a gallon of 50/50 meth/water mix every two tanks of fuel. I have a snow progressive kit that comes on at 8psi and is full on at 20. I have snows biggest jet in it, 625ml I believe.I run...
If you pull the head off and if the bores and pistons are within spec there is no reason to get the block machined. Just run a light hone down each cylinder to break the glaze.
That being said there are many ways to screw this job up as some have noted, but it can and has been done many times.
BS..... This has been done a many times in many different vehicles. It's
not the best way to do it, but it can be done with good results. Doing a ring job in the car would be only way I would do in a 91 civic..... Because its a 91 civic :)
Sure it will spool up. Yes it will work with a open manifold..... Now, when it will spool up and for how long it will last is anybody's guess. But I suppose if you cared about any of those things you wouldn't buy a knock off POS :)
The 9 inch is a great rear, I have one in my F-Body. But they also are the heaviest and take the most power to turn out of all the factory rears (other than the Dana 60). The 8.8 and the 12 bolt being next in line as far as strength do have less parasitic than the 9". The 10 bolt chevy being...
Ya got that backwards I think. Put the flexplate on the motor, then put the converter in the transmission, make sure it's seated all the way. IPT has a video of this by the way. The you bolt the motor to the trans. Last thing you do is put the converter to flex plate bolts in.
I know of a evo 3 registered in the US. There is quite a few things that the DOT would not be fond of about it, lack of door bars, emissions and any sort of useful front bumper would be a start.
You got a point on more time than money :)As far as the DP goes, I used the BEP T3 housing so it was a v-band, but doing a O2 eliminator style is the cats ass. I cut the flange of a Megan DP, got one of those bends from ATP, welded the mess together and it works great. Should be the same idea...
I have seen some of the mix my upper piping (it's aluminum so no rust) figured it was just part of the deal. On another subject, how do you like the pre turbo injection?
That manifold may look like the ERL, but the real deal is cast steel. I dont see the advantages of one Chines welded manifold over another.... They all seem to crack eventually :(
+1 on bleeding the lash adjusters. If you have no compression in any cylinders this would be a likely problem. It's not certain that it would bend the valves tho, bleed them and give it a try.
It took me a while when I first started with the TIG, but it gets better :) when you get that stuff down go try some cast aluminum, like a valve cover or T-stat housing...... Piss ya off all over again :)
Valve timing (I.E. The timing marks on the cam gears and the front case) is different from ignition timing ( adjusting the CAS with a timing light ) set your valve timing first by getting all your marks lined up, then set the ignition timing once you get the car running.
I too would love some more info a machining the H1c to fit the HX wheel. I think I am maxing out mine, but I really like the way it fits, just need more flow :) sorry if this is a hijack
The rules in these classes dictate what cars work well and what car don't. The 4G may hold lots of records, but they must not be competitive when they are in class legal trim.