If it still matters, I have pictures and sounds from a NT 96 with the exhaust on it

thanks guys...so opinions about which tranny system to go with...1g or 2g?

I currently have no trans but could get the 1g rear diff in the near future and I just wondered if it would work with a 2g tcase and a 2g awd tranny

I'm converting a 98 tsi into awd, so I'm looking for a subframe to do the swap, and i stroll across this guy who only wants 100 for the rear subframe and diff on a 93 tsi awd ... both cars are 5pd ... the question is with a 2g trany and transfer case can i run a 1g rear diff without burning the...

bump

do the compression test and pull the valve cover off to see how the top of the head looks...good stock internals can hold 8 easy...I used to have a 96 std that would run fine under 10lbs at the track, 5psi daily, put the turbo on at 136000 and ran fine til I got rid of it at 164000

trying to find a crank for my 6 bolt 4g63 and noticing that the 85-92 model 4g64 has a 6 bolt crank so I can keep my flywheel. Based on my research, both cranks use the same main bearings so I should be able to just get stronger than OE main bearings for the 4g63 or 4g64 (whichever is cheaper)...

graci fellas

thanks guys...by chance would anyone know the main bearings I need cause I'm having hell finding ones that will work right

I am pretty sure it's a 6 bolt, because the oil pump gaskets for a 94 seven bolt or 96 model don't line up at all. The gasket for the 90 model eclipse fits but it just doesn't have the guide holes in the gasket. I just want to make sure it's actually a 6 bolt block and has 12 mm head bolts so...

so the deal is it came with a 6 bolt crank, but the oil pan has a hump in it and the gasket set for oil pump doesn't fit for a 90 model, 94 model or 96 model eclipse...the closest one was off of a 90 model, but the actual gasket for the pump was missing holes for the allignment studs...so I...

I have a block that I got from a guy who says it's a 6 bolt block, and although it came with a six bolt crank, the front crank seal and oil pump gaskets are off of a 1g seven bolt. Is there anyway to tell if the block was originally a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt? maybe by using the numbers stamped on the...

I recently purchased a block from a guy who says it's a 6 bolt block. it had a 6 bolt crank in it, but the front crank shaft seal/oil pump looks to be off of a 1g seven bolt. The block had spun a bearing and I was wondering if that might have had something to do with it, being the incorrect oil...

could I just put stronger than stock mains for the 4g64 crank and they'd fit in the 4g63 block?

I'm looking for good main bearings to put a 4g64 crank in my 4g63. anyone know off hand the size difference or will ones for a 4g64 direct fit into the 4g63?

awesome...appreciate it

I wanted to stroke the 6 bolt I'm putting in my 96 gst but the block I got from a guy already has the balance shafts out...I know it's typically a good thing to take them out, but I didn't know if the stroked engine would be so imbalanced at low rpm that it might need them back. I've taken them...

so 6 bolt engine and any 1g eprom or does it have to be 89-92 eprom for the dsmlink to work on the car??

so I can run a 6 bolt block with a 2g trans??? cause I'd rather not pull the trans if I don't have to. do you think these DSMlink guys could point me in the right direction on inject and fuel pump for the 280 cams I want to run....don't mean to sound too needy, but this is the first fuel...

yeah, the deal is that the motor is seized but I'm getting the car for 1000 and it's pretty much mint except for the driverside door lock plastic. I'm gonna have to build the motor anyway and I figured while I was at it why not put a 1g head on with a 16g and do little to no modification to the...

looking at building an engine for my 96 gst and get 20 psi out of it reliably. I wanna use a 1g head on a 2g block with aftermarket internals and a 16g, but I was wondering if a 6 bolt long block with a 14b would be more reliable as a DD. However, the car has a perfectly good stock auto trans in...

hahnracecraft.comnote just adding a turbo puts you ahead of any stock gst or gsx as long as you can drive

oh come on guys...not even a smart-a remark???

I intend to completely build an engine for the gst shell i have and since the seven bolt auto tranny is still perfectly fine I wanted to keep the seven bolt block so I don't have to change the tranny. So with a seven bolt block and a late 1g head, from what i've researched, the head bolts should...

yeah, I know...I'm getting a white 96 gs-t convert auto in the upcoming months

I've got a 96 block that I want to put a 92 head on because the trans is fine, the motor is just shot...I plan on putting a 16g on it with 280 cams and I was wondering if there was a stronger crank out there somewhere or could I use the 7 bolt 92 crank as an upgrade to the 96 like I can the head...

thank's that was mainly the heart of my question...I hear a lot about the eagle pistons and rings, would they support that much boost with ease. and what's the market on a stronger crank or will the stock one hold up ... I know that's crank walk is something I'd have to deal with being a 7 bolt...

so if I put the 1g head, intake and bov on it with upgraded pistons and rods, what is the better turbo to put on it that will hold 20psi safely? and what rate fuel pump do I need to support the high boost?

I'm looking to purchase an auto 95 gst that needs a new head. Pending my actually buying this car and taking the head off I'm thinking about just rebuilding the entire thing. I was wondering if I should bore it out a little or just keep the stock bore and upgrade the pistons and rings, I'd like...

I'm thinking about getting an eclipse gst that supposedly needs head work. I can get a newly reman head for about 400, but it's a stock one and if that's not all that's wrong with the car I'm going to just pull the engine and start from scratch. Now, I've been out of the game for a bit with...

is there anyway to clean an egr valve? evernow and then my care reads an insufficent flow but then the light goes away...or could I just get a SAFC and adjust the air fuel and make it go away?

the gears are a lot stiffer to go into...feels wonderful

note to agree: my car kept running 16 flats til I figured out how to launch it, now it runs 15.5s...shift at or a little before 6 to get most horse power out of the high end

the 3" catback I have isn't loud at idle or low rpm...it doesn't have a cat either, but it really isn't that loud til 3500 to 4000 ...other than that, it's just a nice gurgle

yeah...so after letting it sit over night, I went outside to look at it this afternoon and pulled the little cover off of it to see that the belt was just chillin about one inch above the cam shafts...nice I thought to myself...so tomorrow I get to take a gander at what happened and just hope...

just put a cap over the vacuum line to the manifold and one over the exhaust mani outlet, and all is well, you will throw a CEL for egr valve flow but it'll run fine

my car has become the spokesperson for crazy crap as of late and the latest act is driving me nuts. when the car is idling thru about 2500 rpm, there is a God awful noise from the timing belt cover like the belt is rubbing on the plastic and something is rolling around in the plastic or...

here's the deal, I've always gapped my spark plugs at .36, but when I got new ones last week the guy was telling me they were supposed to be .38-.43 I put them at .36 and at .42 to see the differences but I can't feel any, and the car runs fine on both gaps...what if any difference in the car is...

if you know of a gst for sale that runs low 14s high 13s for just over a grand with a great interior and good paint you let me know

the thought is that the greddy one is the best???

thanks man

I'm going turbo within the year...accumulating parts now

so what about the exhaust temp at teh cat??? any approx? or should I put it in there, then set kind of a target based on what it is now and then when I tune it know that it can't get above that mark I set? wouldn't that work?...I ask cause I don't wanna drill into a header I'm going to have to...

is the egt probe the only way to get exhaust gas temps??? I figure it is, but can you put it in other places other than right at the exhaust manifold and still get an accurate reading?

the stock rims for my car are 14x5 steelies and don't grip for sh!t now, so I put some 16x7s on them...I think the 16s could look like some kid with just rims and an exhaust and make people not think anything of it...least that's what I'm going for

baws, let me say this...I'm running na with a cai, header, exhaust, udp, short shifter and you see what I can do...I'm gonna be turboing my car and I know for a fact that if I'm running near a stock gst na, then a 420a running 8 psi can easily take one...a stage one kit on a 420a car in houston...

what kind of cams are you gonna get?

bolt patter doesn't match

that'll work

so who sells good ones?