A couple of days ago my friends CEL light came on and so yesterday we drove his 98' RS down to St. Cloud to go to auto zone for a free ODBII scan. Well they hooked up the scanner and there was no power in the port. WTF What should we do, trace all the wires back to the ecu or go somewhere...

if you want forged rods just get a set of eagle or skat rods which are made for the car 2G 7bolt..... but if that short block is around for $1K i'd personally pick that up and then get the head decked and install fresh valve stem seals (machine shop can do it). Then do the mls and arps and you...

you can build them cheap yourself, or spend the money which goes into more than just name (sometimes) like the thermal research, I believe it is stainless steel and costs more, but it is one of the best sounding exhausts (imo) and if its stainless like I remember it wont rust (as easy) Thats...

because tuning with a mas is easier imo to get it dialed in really well, plus compensation for the 3G mas is really simple in dsmlink

def. different but I like. Just curious, whats up with the wastegate on the intake side instead of on the exhaust side of the turbo?? Wouldnt it be better for temps having it on the other side? Also, I would personally weld on two brace bars like the dnp manifold, just because it is such a...

I havent had issues being vented, but I also am tuned with link and nlts for at the track, so it really doesnt matter for my quarter mile times..... it does get a little rich, as i've seen on my wideband, but its not a big enough deal with my set up to bother me. Now on an almost factory car...

if you dont want to worry about that just get a 2.4 block...... they are not "strokers" but an actual 2.4

pull the intake and check your turbo for shaft play etc, if you are on a coolant cooled turbo (factory or 16g etc). If so and you really reached those temps, first your lucky your engine is fine, and second make sure the turbo is not damaged.

more so, I wanna know what turbo/wg set up your running to drop the bost down to 4 psi?????? factory is around 10 ROFL

machv is the only place I know that sells the rmdsm, unless you want a carbon fiber one. Also, black paint isnt the easiest to match, and it would be cheaper if you wait to do it all at once.for doing the interior clean, I pulled out my seats, carpet, door panels, etc and then I rug...

looks like a history of being beatin on with stoplight racing... but thats my guess from the exterior ROFL

fwd will fit but the ride will not be as nice as with an awd set up. my buddy had fwd sportlines and some sort of fwd shocks (non oem) and that thing was basically tucking with the factory size tires :( when he threw awd stuff on there it was a night and day difference.... i've even had awd...

Black paint with double clear coat - maybe talon 2 tone with red, white, or goldish silverMagnaflow twin tip stock-looking muffler + resonatorSome sort of racing seats (need help here) - get something classy looking - or some brides :DGReddy Type R or Type S BOV - is this for the...

i'd say do the oem one unless you plan on running a super stiff clutch. I havent had any problems with it and a 2600, and alot of people on 2900's are running the oem clutch fork to. Its just a simple thing that is forgotten about when clutch jobs are done and then it breaks and screws with...

it really sounds like a clutch fork, and I was able to switch gears with the car turned off, the clutch only allows the tranny to disconnect from the power of the engine, and when the car is turned off it doesnt matter about a clutch at all. Oh and if it works rep points please :D

its not the syncros, I had this happen last winter. my clutch fork went bye bye and snapped in half. Has the car ever had a clutch job, and is it running a stiffer clutch. If yes and the car is higher mileage I will more than garantee that it broke, mine bent one for and broke one off so I...

garrett turbos are more reliable, some will attest to that but imo they hold up better in the long run, or at least for me they have. Now this is not on a gt42r size either though ROFL

correct, but all 1G's had 14b's if they were manuals. Some autos had 13g's LOL

if you can spend another $25 you can get a reliable act 2600 from maperformance.com, the act clutch is tried and true. Otherwise do some searching about spec. I believe a couple of people are running them on here.

gt40r :D just run 8 psi and you should be fine ROFLROFL

you should post pics of the rest of the damage

if your getting head work, I would get the head built and set to go, that way when you upgrade the turbo and such, you will have a head that can keep up. I personally would do some arp 220,000 psi studs, a mls headgasket, maybe o-ring the head and for sure get 272 or bigger cams. Then you can...

I like using it for assembly work, it is very luby and just a safety thing imo, put it on cams and stuff when installing so they have oil on their initial start up

unless you run a higher flowing fuel pump and factory boost, since that will make up for it and the factory tune is a little rich. If the boost gets turned up at ALL, you will need more fuel mods. plus the 16g is not efficient at 10 psi comparend to the high teens you can run with injectors...

my car hasnt been ran since it was on an evoIII16g, and it was running 12.4-12.5's then. I'm hoping for lower 11's this summer with the set up listed in my profile... i may have a built head and larger cams but that would be about it. Oh and a new baller fmic set up that my shop is going to...

does no one else notice that he is a 420a guy??? I would say if the price is right on the srt block, get that and then do some port work to your head, if it fits, and then run that set up. A 2.4 will help spool the larger turbos, and I saw my gas milage go up since they are torquer.... not...

what are you planning on running for a turbo... oh and if your serious about 10's, I would pull the head, get it built and make sure that the engine is built. Then get some fp3x's for cams, a gt35r series turbo, and some A1 headstuds... oh and all supporting fuel mods.and thats just a...

it may just be a hundi valve cover... since hyundi used the 4G63 also. Or it has a 4G64, which is a 2.4, and is a big up grade, its a stroker so you can have alot more torque.... once I went 2.4 on my gsx I'll never go back to 2.0.... maybe a 2.1 so I can rev to the moon but that would be it...

well if you plan on getting a bigger turbo later, I would go with 680cc injectors. I had those, a safc, and a 50 trim (no afpr) and was putting down 330 awhp. so here is the list that will give you 300, and give you room to grow without upgrading EVERYTHINg for your secod upgrade.16g 680cc...

dude... if you are doing a 4G63 into your non turbo, you may as well fully build it and do standalone so that it keeps up with all the work you just did

well that works... and I like them both white :D what I was saying dont do is claim the gst as the gsx... its cooler if you have 2 anyways

well again, do you do any out of state tuning? (looks like your in pennsylvania

just build the gsx, have the gst as a dd and then take out the gsx whenever she is running.... I personally wouldnt do the hide a car but thats your call. Also, do the 2 tone all the way!!!

you are one insane tuner. do you ever come to minnesota... because with my set-up (gt3076r) I am only putting 350 to the wheels on pump.. and your doing that on that 16g it looked like. I would love to put out some huge numbers and then get a good C16 tune to!!

for 380 awhp on pump I would look into 272's. With my current set up on pump gas I am only pushing 360 awhp and that I with a bb 60 trim ~ and 2.4, smim, 272's, and all supporting mods. It is do able though, but more airflow = more power

I would get a 50 that I can get 2 housings for then... like one street/fun aka .48 and then a .63 for track/power. And if the .48 was a little restrictive for your liking, you could port it out a little to help it better. I really wish I had cranked it to max boost and tuned it for that...

I just sanded, and then primered, and then sanded and repeated until they were smoothe with primer. The finished result was paint that matched the body

Is the shop name #### performance by chance???? ROFL anyways I would ask them to print up a full detailed price list for you, and then goto 2-3 more shops and have them make up identical lists, and stating their prices. $350 for a timing belt WTF I can get cam gears and a greddy belt for...

two things I forgot to mention for when I hit the 330. I was only running 16 psi and pump gas, and I only had an safc at the time..... I never had it dyno'd with link or race fuel but I'm sure I could have gotten alot higher numbers

I would drain the rest of the oil and see if there is any metal shavings in it. If the engine got low and damaged the bearing, it could have started to make the noise you were describing. It would get better on a cold start up since the bearing then had thicker and more oil on them. Not...

I believe that I had a stage 3 wheel.... and I was putting out 330 awhp with the .48 a/r on both my 2.0 and 2.4... the 2.4 just started losing power around 6400

I have the garrett with a .48, and it kicks like a 10 gauge shotgun :Doh and you will have a dump tube that screams VERY loud!

all that I remember is that when I was running 16 on the street I was seeing it around 3500-3600 rpms IIRC.... either way it would come on really fast for a 50 trim. It may have been a couple of hundred later and then a little less on the 2.4, but its been so long that I dont fully remember...

yup its tubular and ceramic coated. the manifold was from 2002 and it cracked for its first time this summer... i've heard some things about them cracking but alot of those that I saw were not ceramic coated.... oh and i sand blasted mine to re-do it but never got around to it and then she...

it was a t3 and it was a standard bearing. The turbo is a garret 50 trim.. i know slowboy sells it for $750-$800 (find a different vendor). The manifold is a south florida performance with a wg that is centered over the flange......I would highly reccomend this style of a set up, and...

I was only saying 15% so that you would be on the conservative side.... since you do not have a logger. 18% is the amount to reduce to factory size, so I would go around that and just with regular driving do some spark plug checking until you have a logger or wb. Loggers are cheaper to, so I...

I had the agp kit which isnt sold anymore... with the .48 a/r and a 38mm tial external. on my 2.0 it pulled like a race horse from hell.... it was an on/off switch for boost. when I launched you would be so far back in your seat it wasnt funny. Once the 2.4 and 272's went it it was spooling...

very true, the narrowband O2 gauge is more worthless than a disco light for a gauge. ROFL I personally have a zeitronix wbO2 which is highly reccomended for tuning. Otherwise if you can afford it, spend an hour getting your car dyno tuned with a wb... it will be way faster than before. if...

I would look into 1000cc injectors, or even 1600cc's. if you stay 2.0, I personally would get everything balanced and then get some 280's, they will help pull alot higher numbers if your revving out to 8-8500 rpms. The smim like the newer revised magnus will help alot at those high rpms also

if you have access to your old turbo or to any turbo you should try throwing that on and see what it does....