welcome back to the dsm world. Get your tools ready and get your patience up its a tough challenge.

thanks

I am very familiar with that thread but it doesn't give me an answer to my question.

I am curious to see if and how a hx35 would fit a 1g with a stock manifold and one of these t3 adapters found on ebay. I am guessing it wouldn't clear the water pipe. wanna see if anyone out there has any experience with this

I didn't pick up a 2g knock sensor yet but I am gonna try unplugging the 1g sensor and see how the car runs. I hope this is it. My car has been parked for awhile now.

I just realized that i never swapped the 1g knock sensor. I hear that its different from the 2g knock sensors. Does any know if this would be causing my problems?

Ok my car has been running like crap for the last couple months. Its been in my garage for almost a year now. The new setup is listed below. The issue is the car sounds like garbage. It gets between 10-15 hg vac and is very hard to start up and idle. Compression is 150 across (6 bolt) and timing...

update. I zeroed out the maf compensation and got the car running better. But the idle is still choppy and timing is boucing around too much. here is a new log.

ok I realized that my logs didnt show the estimated afr. Its boucing around from 18-23:1. Sounds very lean but my plugs get black really quickly and you can smell lots of fuel with the car running. I dont have my wideband installed yet so I can't confim this estimate.

ok here is some new logs I made while messing around with the car idling. I cant get it to idle steady without running high timing.

new update. The motor started knocking so I pulled it out and got another running block and head. The car is still running the same way. gets about 15 in. of vac at 1k rpm with timing at 10 degrees and 43 psi fuel pressure. Timing is good, compression is ok, firing order is right, cas is not...

Ok so today after awhile of messing around i got the car to idle around 1k. I was getting 13-14 in.hg of vac. And i pushed the cas downWard and i got a more steady 17-18 in.hg but i heard pinging so i backed off. This is with the maf unplugged. When i plug it back in it has no effect. Also the...

Its running so rough i wouldnt be able to do this without the car stalling. Plus its really hard to keep it idle without giving it some gas. I am gonna check my cas wiring to make sure there isnt any cuts. And i am getting 40 psi fuel pressure around 1500 rpmok so i got the car hooked up with...

O yeah forgot to say that i checked both firing order. Stock way and the order with a inverted cas. Timing is spot on and i personally took the parts out of a decently running car. The car sounds like a big block with a ridiculous cam.

Ok so i got a 6 bolt 2g that runs like crap. It barely starts and wont idle or run smooth. I am running dsm link now but the car was the same with the stock ecu. I cant access link right now because i dont have a laptop but the settings are already there for my setup from the last owner. I have...

8mpg sounds scary. This suv/truck is gonna see about 320 miles a week. A jeep grand cherokee sounds decent. I could get the one with the 4.7 8cyl and the mpg is too bad. Its rated up to 6500 pounds of hauling. but a pick up truck is probably the ideal thing to use.

ok so I am thinking about buying a suv or truck to haul my gsx around like going to the track and stuff. This would pretty much be my daily driver so acceptable gas mileage is big. I am not looking to get something new either. Probably something 2000 or older. So Far I like the pathfinders and...

How do i find out which version i got. i dont have the cover. The motherboard says 1.7.Update. My ect broke in 2 so now i gotta buy 1. By chance has anyone tried a autozone ect?

ok here is the update. compression test turned out good with 150 psi across. I yanked the gm maf and ghetto rigged my stock maf back on and car runs much better. I also fixed a faulty ect sensor connection. However it still runs rough. It will start and idle on its own but it revs from 700ish to...

well i double check some wiring and everything seems good. I am gonna do a compression test to make sure everything is running right. But I got a hunch its coming from my gm maf and translator.

also I do have a weak coupling connection right before my tb that I put together to get the car started. Maybe that might be a leaking and causing my rich conditions.

I just dropped in my stock rebuilt 6 bolt and I am running a 3.5 maf and translator. I am missing the translator cover so I dont know what version I got. On the inside it says v 1.7. so I am confuse which settings to go with seeing that each version is different. I got it set at aux=4 and base=2...

hmm thats another possibility. I will pull it apart again and check it out. And I want to add that my relief valve has already been ported.

I am running a 90 style air cooler. what is this little orange o-ring u speak of? I didn't see anything like that when I pulled it today. However it still leaks after I changed the gasket and tighten everything up. My oil pressure went from 3/4 high on my stock gauge to around 1/3 at idle after...

well it is leaking from the back side of the ofh towards the crank pulley. I used new gaskets but I didn't torque it to any specific specs just wrench tight. Just wondering do I have to pull the timing cover and belts to get the ofh off?

Ok so i just dropped in my rebuilt 6 bolt with the balance shafts removed. I know my oil pressure would spike but i also got a nice constant leak from the ofh and my stock oil gauge is about 3/4 from a cold start. I am gonna check to make sure everything is tight tomorrow. let me know what u...

well my new 6 bolt motor will be going in as soon as I can get all the small stuff together. Now I got a 90 style OFH but I dont have the lines or the cooler. I can get the rest for a good deal but I just want to know how good the stock oil cooling system really is. Should I really spend the...

ok so I realized that I had no thermostat so I put in a 180 with a new radiator cap. Then I tried to burp the system and I got coolant shooting all over everywhere from the water neck. Ok then I went to go check the heat and I got no heat at all. coolant is filled but no heat. Gonna go check and...

I used copper spray with my mls gasket (big no no) and arp studs tq to 115 ft-lbs with oil. also switch back to my stock radiator cap because the upgraded one held too much pressure. Also when I bleed my system I will constantly get small air bubbles. nothing crazy but they just wont completely...

is it possible for the turbo to be cracked and the reason for the extra pressure in the cooling system?

yeah I didn't deck the block or the head (stupid mistake) because both were out of perfectly running cars. I also used a ebay mls but it was pretty good looking though.

I need some help figuring out if I got a cracked/warp head or block. I recently did a mls head gasket when I did my 6 bolt head swap about 1500 miles ago. one day after being parked for a week the cooling system just started to build pressure and breaking every weak hose. I am positive that...

yeah I would run the wastegate from the o2 housing. Before I buy this I think I am gonna shop around for a broken turbo and just swap parts to fix my 14b. Honestly not ready to use a 20g.

ok so I am gonna give the ebay o2 housing with the recirculated wastegate a shot. I only need it because I have a 20g thats setup for external waste. My 14b has a broken manifold bolt and also has more isssues which is too costly to fix. If I go with this ebay o2 I would need to weld a flange to...

well I have been doing some homework and also considering the 2g npr replacement pistons found on slowboy racing and ebay. They seem fine and a few other tuners had good luck so far. Does anybody know anything bad about these pistons that I may have overlooked?

yeah you make the prices seem kinda of low. Around here in new york the cheapest option for machining my 6 bolt rods is dsm graveyard and thats like $140. Now I really want to get new pistons because used ones could have small cracks but if I come across a good deal then I will jump on it. Just...

seeing that I have some 6 bolt rods in mint condition I wanted to ditch the low compression 1g pistons and use some forged pistons with 2g compression. however how would I get them to fit seeing that stock rods are not fully floating like the pistons are designed? could I press the stock pins on...

ok I don't have a timing light so I was gonna get the car in good shape so I can drive it to my mechanic's shop to use his light. not to switch subject but the car was smoking blue oil smoke yesterday mostly at idle and when I rev it. Now this morning I warmed the car up some and made a short...

yeah I re-wired everything to how magnus says to do it for a full 6 bolt swap. I believe either my turbo seals are leaking or valve seals and its messing up my a/f ratios

another update. I wired up the 1g cam sensor to the 2g crank ( I only had it to the 2g cam) The car starts and runs better. I drove the car around for a while but the car stutters hard after afew pounds of boost. It still stalls and is very hard to restart afterward.

ok I pulled codes and came up with rear o2 and evap purge. I have a egr block off and emissions disabled so the evap isnt gonna work. The car wont rev past 4500 rpm standing still. It will just cut out and die if I dont try to smooth it out with the throttle. I also have a smoke show from my...

update... well I did the injector wire swap and drove the car around the block a few times reving to 2,500. It idles fine but bogs hard and starts to die whenever I start to get on it or whenever i am going up hill. I am gonna try to get my hands on a scan tool and pull some codes.

well I just finished the swap so I didn't switch the pins yet. I am going outside to do it now. also would this be signs of a faulty coolant temp sensor? I dont have a logger or any scan tools so I cant read my cel light yet. I know I have a rear o2 code.

ok so I just did a 6 bolt head swap and the car is running horrible. The first time I drove the car it made it 2 blocks down and died when I was on a slight hill. I pushed it home and checked my new spark plugs and did a compression test. My cp ranged from 123 psi to 152 psi. (old block with...

well right now I dont have anything out of the ordinary that would be taking a big load but I would like to have the power to run a decent audio system if I ever get around to it.

well my alternator went bad and I want to upgrade the weak alternator to something decent. I seen that some replacement alternators come with 90 amps. Does anybody think a 90 amp is good enough or should I invest in something more powerful.

well all my rear spindle bushings are shot and I can't seem to a find a bushing kit that describes what I really need. I looked in the energy suspension master kit but I am not sure if the rear spindle bushings are included. also looking into buying new spindles but can't find a website for them.

ok so I have a clean rebuilt 1g head and I was testing the valves for any leakage. I didn't get the head rebuilt myself I just pulled it off a decent block that was pulling 60 psi compression in the first cylinder. I turn the cams to close the valves and then sprayed brake cleaner in all the...

well I felt like doing a compression test on my 7 bolt seeing that I only had it for like a month. From cyl 1-4 i got 60,140,155,156. I am very familiar with these numbers because I got the same readout from my blown 6 bolt which turned out to be a blown piston in the same cyl 1. Well the car...

The surge can range from 1100 to 1800 really. when the car idles normal it sits at about 700-800. when I get a chance to do some testing I will update the thread.