FYI, 7 years later, this happened because I was running way too small of an oil drain tube. As soon as I upgraded from 14mm ID to 19mm ID, never had an issue, was a great turbo.

it should be a friend of mine is running 30psi on his evo with no problems at all

Update:Dynojet AWD Dyno @ Modern Automotive Performance, in Plymouth, MN.HX40 w/ .55 A/R BEP Housing556 awhp 449 torque @ 37 PSI 13:1 AFR on E85. Stock 2.0L w/ 7.8:1 CR.I suck at driving and only managed an 11.40 @ 131mph. 60-ft was 1.8

updated results!!!!!!

No I see a lot of people still modding them, but seems a lot of people are ditching DSM's all together for Evo's.

I failed to mention that my Holsets were brand new, inspected by a reputable and knowledgeble diesel turbo rebuilding company, and never was LACK of oil the issue. Turbine shafts bent, and sheared. I am running 30psi. :) So if the drain tube doesnt help, eff Holset FOREVER. Btw, No balance...

I'm on my third Holset. All brand new... Properly supplied with oil. I will be making a Monster drain tube using a factory Cummins tube, when the car is out of storage. If this turbo fails a third time after the monster drain, I will be the biggest anti-Holset person on this board.

I think a carbon center console, gauge cluster surround, etc would be really neat. Maybe door sill plates also?

Just jumping in here, anyone else hear of anyone else having HX40 failures?Btw, I love my Holset. I just wish it would stop blowing up! Buying new center sections isn't that cost effective.My two failures were not oil related, but shaft/turbine failures.

I have had 2 BRAND NEW Holset center sections fail. When they were removed, and inspected to find the cause, it was never oil related.My specific car has oil squirters, no balance shafts. I have a oil feed from the oil filter housing, with a Forced Performance Journal Bearing...

I ground a stock 2G 02 housing gasket to fit.It's an Ebay housing $95, Tial MS-V I paid like $250 for, a new v-band, and welding..so maybe $400, plus I had it ceramic coated later lol.

This is the 3" O2 housing I'm using on my .55A/R BEP 446awhp DynoDynamics stock block car.It's from Ebay and I put v-bands on it. The pipe is kinda smashed a bit to fit under the wastegate tube and the hole in the flange is not 3". I did open both the wastegate and outlet holes up a tiny bit...

Bringing this back to life:I have a Bolt-On HX40@29psiThe turbine wheel failed on my Holset for the 2ND! time two days ago. The first HX40 was bought brand new, and the turbine broke after about 500 miles. The turbo was disassembled, and turbine wheel had failed. Oil was not an issue, the...

This past spring I bought a BRAND NEW Holse HX40 with a BEP bolt-on Mitsu housing. About 1000 miles later, after being dyno tuned, etc, a fin off the turbine broke off. I took it to a local diesel shop, and the very knowledgeble guys there said there was no sort of oiling problem, the bushing...

Turbo: BRAND NEW Holset HX40 12blade turbine/6blade comp. w/ BEP .55 A/R bolt-on housingBoost: 29psiFuel/Engine Mang.: E85, FIC BM 1650s, ECMlink V3, GM Maf w/ ECMtuning cableAFR: ~11.5:1Timing: 17*Compression: 7.8:1Engine: Stock fresh 6-bolt, BC 272s, Magnus Street IM...

I was limited by my fuel pump btw ;)

Are you grounding that diganostic pin properly? It should be grounded right to the battery, not to the ISC plug. lol Sorry if you meant that differently. If it's not grounded nothing you do will change the idle.

Sounds like your AFPR can only go down so far! I would suggest getting a different one that can actually turn down the fuel pressure, like an Aeromotive! On my 1G, under vaccum its at roughly 28psi at idle (which is like 36 without vaccum).

Yes, the Evo 8 pump could probably handle your setup now, but why bother? That would be downgrading!

Could you have a leaking rear mail seal leaking oil all over the clutch?

I've always been told the BLACK Isc's are better, they have a better design and are the newer style. My recommendation: Just get a new one! www.dsmisc.com is the cheapest place I've seen.And a used tan one will most likely be broken, too.And a bad ISC will cause idle surge.

Sounds like some kind of short, something got hot, and if you've ever worked on a car you know how flamable brake fluid is!

Thats 450awhp on a Dyno Dynamics ;)

So I'm making a lot better power now, check the updated first post!

Ok, so now I'm kinda thinking of a new project along the lines of a 4G63T Hyundai, 93+ Colt/Mirage 4 door, maybe a 88-91 Colt/Mirage hatchback. I'd prefer something I could swap to AWD, that wouldnt be ahuge pain. And this project would be a monster sleeper, I'd have a goal for about 550 awhp...

Hmm, my homemade custom monster crushwasher is working awesome!

Did your fitting come with the o-ring, mine didn't, only when I was at the turbo place there was a factory cummins feed fitting for a Holset there and it had an o-ring.Should I just use that?

Well I machined a nice Monster crush washer out of copper, if that doesn't work I'll try the o-ring.Thanks guys!I guess I thought the o-ring wouldn't handle the heat.

Now I have to break off a tac weld to get my fitting off! arg!

I have a Holset HX40 on my DSM with a feed line from the OFH from Extreme PSI. They supplied me with a M12x1.5/-4an Male/male fitting. My problem is I used a crush washer between the steel fitting, and the CHRA, and it seems to be seeping oil. Seems like the fitting's hex does not have large...

When I boost leak tested my compressor cover it was leaking there for sure. And this was on a brand-new HX40! Jeez. Oh well, a turbine fin broke off my turbine so it doesn't really matter haha.A new CHRA is on its way.

Can someone tell me if there is a giant o-ring on the HX35/40 compressor covers to seal? I see a groove on mine (below the snap ring groove and the step for the backplate) but no o-ring, and when I boost leak tested it sounded like it was leaking from the cover....The OEM Holset oil feed...

I added a wet dyno graph to first post.I have a 488k limit for pics, (i'm maxed right now). Will that change? I'd like to post more.I'm going to my local track this weekend :) should have some slips up sunday.

I agreee. Using the ECMlink V3 open ecu we (the tuner and I watching lol) basically setup the timing table in the high load area like 2G, but a little smoother/logical. It is conservative yes, on the dyno we never hit any knock, so I know we were no where near the limit.I'll try to get...

No spacer, just very slight "denting" of the waterpipe. Probably a 1/16th" clearance between the cover and pipeAnd Wheelhop, I'll try to get a graph, I'd like to move the first post if possible to the Holset results.

You are very correct. Dyno Dynamics is probably the lowest reading dyno.I posted it here hoping someone could move it! I wish I could post more pics of my setup, but I'm at the limit with just one lol.

Turbo: BRAND NEW Holset HX40 12blade turbine/6blade comp. w/ BEP .55 A/R bolt-on housingBoost: 29psiFuel/Engine Mang.: E85, FIC BM 1650s, ECMlink V3, GM Maf w/ ECMtuning cableAFR: ~11.5:1Timing: 17*Compression: 7.8:1Engine: Stock fresh 6-bolt, BC 272s, Magnus Street IM, Stock...

Yes they will :)$95 to the door! Then I welded the W/G vbands on, and the Vband on th outlet is too poor so I'm chopping that off and putting a new nicely machined vband on.Yes, that is a brand new style Tial MS-V 38mm.Anyways when my setup is all done (about 1-2weeks) I'll try to get...

I'll post pics of my 02, but I do not want to take this thread off topic. How do you all know my Holset is Genuine? I had a bad experience with the place I got my turbo from, so I will not mention. Check out vendors-reviewed.com.My o2 housing:I'd post more but "my quota" is exceeded.The...

I have what appears to be a genuine Holset, kinda.Mine does not have any tag on the compressor cover, but there is a spot for it.The compressor cover inlet OD and ID doesn't appear to be machined at all, just a smooth castingIt says Holset on the comp. cover in bolder letters than of...

Here is a pic, all I've got. It's an HX40, supposedly.

I would try bleeding the system again, then let the car sit for awhile to let any other air come out. If worse comes to worse, a working used might shouldn't be hard to find that could just try.

Try replacing your fuel pressure regulator.

Maybe a leaking injector? Maybe try a set of stock injectors known good to see if it runs or idles ok.

Sounds like a dying ECU. Same symptoms with my car, eventually it just wouldn't fire up anymore. Pull the ecu, take the cover off and check for the dead fish smell. Also look to see if the capacitors are leaking on the circuit board (the big ones in the middle between the vertical boards)...

Maybe you blew up the alternator, or the battery is dying. Check your fuses as well :)

Ok, I'd double check all the fuses. You must have a bad or broken connection somewhere, or the ECU just bit the dust. Check to see if power is getting to the ECU. Check to see if power is getting to the ignition.

It sounds like for some reason the clutch isn't disengaging the flywheel. Confirm the hydraulics are working properly. What does that mean? Make sure when you push the clutch pedal down, the slave cylinder on the bottom/front of the transmission is moving fully. If the slave cylinder isn't...

Maybe the sea foam loosened up some carbon and clogged up or ruined the Idle Speed Control motor. I would check to see it's operating. Also, just for fun, make sure the throttle isn't stuck open. You should be able to check your throttle position via DSMLink or just go out there and make sure...