Check the vacuum line to the BOV, and the recirculation line from the BOV to the intake for leaks, kinks, or obstructions. A new 1g BOV can be had for under $100 from Slowboy Racing, but check everything out first.http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/-Thats a very good tool...

Find some Lucas Oil transmission fluid additive. It supposedly helps slipping and other things. Put it in with your fluid change.

Just look at all the wiring in question for shorts or bad connections.

Its the outer seal that sits against the window, that's whats letting water into the door.

You're going to have to list all of your mods in your profile in order for anyone to help.

Do a search. A boost controller is basically useless unless you have the supporting mods.

Doesn't the car need a CAS to run right? Maybe you jumped timing a bit.

Try tightening the clamp. If it doesn't help, it looks like you're going to have to take the turbo out and check it.

That's what its for.

It sounds like an oil line if its coming from in between the compressor and exhaust housings. Make sure they're both tight. Did you use new crush washers for the banjos when you you re-installed it? They can not be used twice. Also, did you put a new gasket on the return line?

It wouldn't run without a maf.

If it changes with the RPM's, it's not the center diff or rear. They change with speed. It might be lifter tick or valve tap. Kinda wierd that it would come from the rear of the car though.

Yes, get it as clean as possible.

That will REALLY help. I've done it before, and it makes a world of difference.

You could probably use a sheet metal screw to ground the strap to the underbody, just be sure it doesn't come through the floor. If you do it, be sure the area the strap will be contacting is clean.

I'd start by checking KBB ( www.kbb.com ), just for an idea of its value. As for adding AWD, check the value of the FWD Laser vs. the AWD Laser. Add the difference, if any, to the value of your car, plus parts, and maybe some labor. Voila. I think.I bought my 91 GSX with some dents, great...

Does the banjo bolt still thread into it? If it does, you could try some teflon tape. But that's more of a temporary fix, but it should work.

Spool up is more like a whistle, not a hiss. A hiss to me would seem like a boost leak, like said above.

I'd say re-tap it, but I wouldn't want to get any metal shavings stuck anywhere. Are you absolutely sure it's the bolt hole, and not just a bad crush washer?

Ok. Thanks a lot, guys!

Does the 1g kit come with banjo bolts?

I was re-installing my turbo, and noticed my oil feed line wouldn't fit. I don't want to bend it and kink it by accident. Does anyone know where I can get a stainless steel line to replace it? I've been looking around and found something on Slowboy, but I dont know what else I'd need besides the...

That's probably it. Crap. :barf:

I was swapping out my transfer case, and the new one doesn't fit on the input shaft. I was wondering what transfer case I got then. I guess its from an automatic? Is there any way to make it fit?

Will do! Thanks a lot!

I ordered an Autometer mechanical boost gauge yesterday, with a pillar pod. I was searching for anything on how to install it. The main problem I see is how to run the tubing. If anyone has any tips, or knows where to re-direct me, that would be great!

If you can take one off, take it to a hardware store and see if they have something that will work. I don't know if its a dealer only item though. If they can't help, then go to the dealer like 1990talon said.

Well, I'd go with some kind of 16g. I don't even know if a 15g would fit on a manifold for the 4g63. Turbo choices have a lot to do with what plans you have for your car. There's 3 different kinds of 16g's, and they're all for different kinds of power. Just look at the different Mitsu turbos on...

I remember seeing somehwere that unsprung puck clutches tend to chatter normally. I'm not sure though.

When I put mine on, I took the battery out for a little more clearance. I think it helped. I did it once with the battery in and it was a little bit harder.

Did the 6 and 14 swap. She runs like a dream now! Just have to get a new transfer case........:dsm:

Ok, thanks!

I was lookin at the connector, and the green/white wire is on the #6 pin, and there is a green/red wire on the #14 pin. Is that correct figuring a 1991 ECU should be in there? Also, just to be sure, in the picture on the connector in the link above, is that viewpoint looking at the pins or the...

Yea, I ran the numbers and it came back as a '90 ecu. I'll be switching the pins ASAP. Thanks guys! :dsm:

No, its a 4g63t.The numbers-Case: MD128625 E2T34474 9X17 AEdge Connector: 4474AAbove the two caps: JE331A979A (The "1" may be an "I")

Nope. I'm the only 1g guy around here.

Thats the best I can do. Its the middle vertical one.

There is goo on one of the smaller vertical boards. Its on the one right next to the smaller capacitor. Otherwise, they look ok.

It surges every now and then, calm down, and It'll run fine at like 900-1200 rpm then just die. It knocks a lot when it surges or if i rev it to like 2000-3000 rpm. It also runs rich. Mind you, there are no mods on it.

Yes, I opened it up to check the components. They all look ok, but I can't really tell bad from good. I narrowed it down to that because there are no boost/vaccuum leaks, and I put in a new ISC. The discoloration is on the upper part of the case, on the inside.

I took out my ECU because I'm having an idle problem, and I narrowed it down to that. I was looking at part of its case, and there is a spot on it that kind of looks like a scratch, and there's a lot of discoloration on it. It looks like something shorted out on it.Sorry for the...

It sounds like some kind of seal in the turbo went. As for the leak on the top of the turbo, replace the banjo boolt and washers.

Being a proven member, you could just post your car in the classifieds and see what people offer. Go to kbb.com and find the value of your car. Then think of how much work you put into it.

I remember reading something about Pacesetter's cracking. I may be wrong though. Look around on the parts catalog and at slowboyracing.comI know a lot of people with 1g's use the 2g manifold. It's even better ported.

But there could be coolant in your oil.

Isn't white smoke coolant? That would mean you need a new head gasket. Make sure there aren't any leaks anywhere. Nothing decides where to send oil, it just flows.

I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow to see if it can be done. Thanks for the help guys.

I figured it was the transfer case. I looked at it today, and there was oil where it should be if its going bad. If my car hasn't had it done yet, will the dealer do it for free?

Today I noticed that when my GSX was decelerating, in gear or not, it was making a really loud noise. It sounded like 2 really large, straight cut gears with only a few teeth, if you can understand that. Accelerating was no problem, but I could kinda feel the vibration, but no noise. It only...