so i might have the possibility of snagging a small NPR(24" x 8.5" x 2.25"). i have been searching around the forums and have seen that the 1g bumpers need some serious "tweaking" to get it to fit right. how much are we talking? this is only gonna be a one or two season deal since i will probly...
you just got owned. that shows you shouldnt go messin with people that are close knit in a community. perhaps this isnt a mistake. :tease:i havent spoken to doug so i dont know, but yea, payback sucks for you and you definetely shouldnt have been all high and mighty about that head...
i stayed at the BW and didnt see anything, although i stayed on the smaller side with mostly 2gnt folks. i did end up on the "4g" side handing out shots. if you took a shot from a guy with a nose ring, your welcome. :-)everytime i went over there though, the cops were sitting there. i...
my bad i suppose. just seemed a little loud to be lifter tick. specially near the bottom of the bumper. i thought mine had lifter tick, but it is nowhere near that loud.
you have already been given one, get a datalogger.....this needs to be the first thing you try. no other suggestions needed at this point. you will most likely figure something more to build off of once you hook one up.
AWD conversion on a spyder :rolleyes:this thread because it was just discussed a few days ago and numerous times in the past :rolleyes:not saying that your AWD spyder cant be done though.....dsmlink IMO.
umm.....that is not quite my problem, but nice try. move along now, there is nothing to see here.i am going to remove the tbelt and move the engine to tdc manually, after that, i will hope that she turns over and runs like a champ. if not, new valves are in order and some cams for good...
maybe. i will see what i can do, but it might not be for a bit. i want to make sure that i dont bend valves if that is what it is and if they are still salvageable.
but i did a compression test after that sound started and it was 180 across the board. havent run the engine since? not to be a dick, but do valves bend themselves. maybe me forcing the engine to crank over by hand with the breaker bar bent some, but they were fine at least when i did the...
it was generically checked with a pocketlogger just a few weeks ago and the car hasnt been driven since then. the timing could be off, but it starts and idles but sounds like a freakin biplane
uhhhh..... what kind of TT is it, that info would probably help.if you are talking about the other end of the harness, you pull the ignition harness that is under the driver side of the dash, the "harness" is supposed to plug in between the ignition harness is now.crappy pic ahead...
taking apart the timing side to try and find a loud noise that has recently developed. down to the nitty gritty and trying to hit TDC. well, i am cranking it over by hand but it is like it is getting stuck on something. i investigated everything that i can see, i dont see where it is getting...
the reason i say my vac is low is because it was -20 to -22 before this idle business started. i will double check the wastegate arm but i installed an exhaust and remember looking at the arm already. my guess is as good as yours as to why the car is running so rich. i have not adjusted the BISS...
so?.....normal people arent gonna think a 1g looks good regardless of the hood. once you explain it, they *might* get it.just like someone at work today said spending money on a car is stupid. i told him how much i have spent on mine, he almost died and asked why. i told him he has...
dont think so but that is getting checked this weekend as i am pulling out the timing belt to see if i can find this new bad sounding noise that it starting making last week. keep in mind i havent been driving it and i start it to drain the gas and it starts making this rubber/plastic/whatever...
whatever you say there buddy, i just receieved mine in the mail, have you even placed your order...... i am speaking of the 1g dsmlink btw, 2g doesnt have some of the extras the 1g has right nowstraight from the order page1G or 1G MAFT
2G or 2G MAFT
Hacked 2g
VR4 or Hacked 1Gtry...
can anyone think of any reasons for low vac besides boost leak? i am getting about -15 to -17 on the vac and my car idles badly. car almost all the way stock, just stopped boosting one day and then started idling bad and dropping idle low erratically. i have checked for boost leaks, i have none...
actually, the gm maf will flow more air than the 1g or 2g mas. the dsmlink for the 1g has 4 options for mafs. 1g, 2g, hacked, gm. if you set it to gm, it will read it and thus eliminating the need for the maf translator. you would zero that out to tune with the link.now, will you ever hit...
even though still, if the years are different, you will still have problems with the tech since there are other differences between 90 and 91-94 than just that one wire.
If you use a palm to log and then just sync it, you will only be limited on logging by the sync software or log reading software that you can get for the mac. i would love to use my mac for logging, but having a 17" powerbook makes it a little hard to keep nice and tune/wrench with it. i bought...
keep your pants on nancy. all cars are different so your base correction will be different that joe blow or john doe. and no, i dont know anything about the SAFC as i am using a maft. have you searched?
why wouldnt you want to change it? it will be the same difference. there are no gains by having it a certain way. you have it, that is all the car cares about performance wise.
but the base model doesnt have AWD or "big" brakes(bigger than the base model). i would say that it would be a tight fit if they do. i have a 1g so things are a little different.
get some stiffer, mild drop lowering springs and some good shocks. that should fix it. i personally am going to look for roughly stock height springs that are really stiff. handle on rails she will.
i would second that notion, although i despise people the blow off improperly. the price tag offsets the reason for getting it, especially since you are stock.