They are not the same turbo's. You could line them up & physically see that. The EVO III 16G is rated at 380Hp, The 20G is rated at 450Hp, and the FP Green is about 500Hp. As far as spool up time, it'll depend on your setup. Generally, bigger turbo's take longer to spool, but got a bigger kick...

Well uh, what is the application? Are you gonna race your car on the drag strip? Road race at the tracks? Or your going for street terror? Hehe...Saber!...!...! :D

It's hopping cause those shocks are too stiff at 8. Set the rear's to 5 and work your way from there, hope that helps. Cross your fingers & prey that it's not your transfer case or rear diff locking up...Saber!...!...! :|

I got my dsm for these reasons: 1. I wanted to own my very first vehicle, 2. After i got to drive one, i wanted a turbocharged dsm, 3. I wanted a car that had parts available & that i could drag race with the proper mods, 4. I wanted to be in a car club and as luck may have it, there's mechanics...

Actually it's the other way around on the AGX's. For the fronts, it's 1(soft) thru 4(hard) & 1(soft) thru 8(hard) on the rears. How would i know? Cause i'm looking at the instructions that came in the box, hehe...I got mine installed with suspension tech 1" lowering springs. it's set at 2 in...

Well we all have our opinions on the matter, hehe. But if you go by this article, then that would make a Mid-Engine Rear-Drive drivetrain the superior one. It has the traction of a rwd, the least amount of drivetrain loss like a fwd, & the top end that an awd vehicle won't have. So in turn, all...

The only tranny's that look like they might fit are from the evo1, evo2, or evo3! From the evo4 and on they flipped it over to the other side...Saber!...!...!

Mine is 2,830lbs! But it's because i have power windows, power locks, & powered shoulder belts. The price of luxury i guess, hehe...Saber!...!...! :thumb:

If it is truly gone for good, just disconnect the wastegate actuator arm from the wastegate flap & you'll be ok. Just make sure you reconnect it after you fix it eh? Hehe...Saber!...!...! :thumb:

Check all your hoses (intercooler, turbo inlet, bov return, etc...) Maybe they just blew off or something...Saber!...!...! =OP

What amazes me is that it's a "NEW" tranny with 35,000 miles already on it....Saber!...!...! :confused:

For my 1g, i can't downshift into 1st gear until i'm going 10mph. Any higher then that i'll grind it...Saber!...!...! :p

I replaced mine for 2 reasons: 1. It's one less rubber hose... 2. It looks really nice...heheSaber!...!...! :p

If the banjo bolts are still in good condition you can reuse them. You might need to change the crush washers though if you start seeing leaks.Saber!...!...! =oP

I've got a fidanza on my laser & it works just fine. Revs up really fast & slows you down fast when you let the gas go to slow down. I only got 2 quirks with it: 1. When you start your engine, it spins the starter for a few seconds before it disengages from it. 2. Your revs drop twice as...

Is your gas cap on all the way? What year is your civic? Maybe the seal around the fuel pump area is rotting or something...Saber!...!...! :confused:

When you determine what your gonna use your car for, your gonna set it up for that purpose. Sure fwd is traction challenge, but that's why you make changes as you mod it. So i'd say if your gonna keep your fwd, for starters get the prothane motor mounts. You don't know how much it helps get rid...

I love my exhaust, 3" Extreme/Thermal R&D with race pipe...Nice & deep with a powerful sound, until the external dumptube drowns it out when i floor it, hehe...Saber!...!...! :thumb:

Which one are you using the Azenis Sport or the Azenis ST-115?Saber!...!...! =oP

This is why i love turbo dsm's. Unlike other vehicles, you don't need to do an engine swap to make it fast. Even when you mod it, it's the same block. Much respect to the 4G63...Saber!...!...! :thumb:

The evolution isn't a dsm since it wasn't built in the same plant as our vehicles. But yea, it's a blood cousin of ours, hehe. Too bad the engine is reversed in there. Maybe the tranny's are made better this time around with double synchro's in 1st & 2nd gear...Saber!...!...! :confused:

I was refering to the worst case scenario, hehe. I myself use a K&N oil filter with my Redline 10w40. Works great & it's built like a tank! If anyone wants to try one for there turbo 1g, the part number is HP-1005. It's about $10.00 but it's worth every dollar.Saber!...!...! :thumb:

I'd rather spend $40 & 30 minutes to change my oil every 3000 miles then having to spend $3000 to fix & rebuild a motor i killed from neglect...Saber!...!...! :thumb:

Damn! Better check that tranny over completely...Saber!...!...! =oP

Change your battery terminals to an aftermarket brand. When i bought this car, the terminals were rusted & full of corrosion. I've changed mine to Monster Cable Dual-Post Terminals, wirebrushed the posts on the battery, & now i'm corrosion free. Look for my car in the gallery & you can see...

Actually in my case, mine broke off. The ring that pops over the pivot is plastic & was too far worn out to even stay on. But hey it did last over 12 yrs...heheSaber!...!...! :p

My linkage on the left side headlight actually popped off while i was racing on the track. Damn thing was old & worn out so i ordered 2 new ones & replaced them both.If you need the part number it's : MB606225Saber!...!...! :thumb:

Don't forget the antiseptic, bandaids, & liquor. You get mighty thirsty when your having fun...HeheSaber!...!...! :p

Well my teammates did the install with me taking pictures. So it depends on who you go to.Saber!...!...! :)

It pulls you thru the corners good. But my suspension is really worn out & my camber is really bad. So i'll have to comment after i get my new shocks & springs installed.Saber!...!...! :p

According to Mike W from RRE, normally it shouldn't make any noise unless the LSD is installed wrong or the transmission is put back together the wrong way.Saber!...!...! :D

Whoa! How's that double post hehe. Sorry bout that. Maybe i do need a new keyboard & mouse...Saber!...!...! =oP

I went with a Centerforce Dual-Friction since i'm FWD & i don't want my calves to look like Mr. Universe hehe. And i got a Fidanza Flywheel to go with that. Hopefully it'll help save my clutch a bit on those drag launches.Saber!...!...! :)

I went with a Centerforce Dual-Friction since i'm FWD & i don't want my calves to look like Mr. Universe hehe. And i got a Fidanza Flywheel to go with that. Hopefully it'll help save my clutch a bit on those drag launches.Saber!...!...! :)

I got a quaife lsd installed in my car & it works great! Both wheels pull instead of just one when i floor it. And made a difference traction wise on just street tires. i bought mine from RRE. If you can afford it & can't stand that open diff in your FWD DSM, go get it!Saber!...!...! :thumb:

Have you ported out your exhaust manifold housing, turbine housing, & O2 housing yet? & got a cat-back exhaust system installed? That helps out big time! I noticed the difference just on my stock 14b. Instant spool up!Saber!...!...! :)

Right on DSM brother. Now get out there & kick some honda ass, whoo hoo!Saber!...!...! >=D

I'm assuming that you built your boost controller properly. I'm using a hallman mbc myself. There's only a 1/4" gap between the valve & handle & i'm getting 13psi max.Can you take a picture of your install & post it up here so we can see what you did?Also, is the wastegate actuator arm...

Hrm, well for most manual boost controllers you don't want to turn the knob too far in. Back it out a bit just before it's completely open...then turn it in a half turn. Start from there & just do the increments a half turn at a time as you tune it.If you've done that & the boost still...

Which boost controller are you using? And did you install it correctly?Saber!...!...! =oP

According to the chilton manual, a steady 17-22psi at idle is a normal engine in good condition.Mine goes up to 26psi when i decelerate too. But yea, your vacuum is A OK...Besides doing the egr block-off mod, if you want you can also do the vacuum lines cap mod on taboo's website...

If you can afford it, yes. I know i need to rebuild mine soon! My question is does anyone have the part number for the transmission rebuild kit?Saber!...!...! :confused:

Sorry bout the typos! It's way past my bedtime hehe....Saber!...!...! :D

Correct me if i'm wrong but, did mitsubishi ever releasing some kind of TSB about this problem nor what can be done to fix it?Seems like a flawed design that hopefully was addressed to mitsubishi's R&D department & technical engineers. But it kinda makes you wonder if the new Evolution 7 is...

I can tell you honestly when i first got it installed it scared the crap out of me! I wanted to return it & get a regular ported O2 housing. But then i noticed it only opens up when you floor it, so it's not such a big deal. I've grown to love that O2 dump sound & it'll definately affect...

When i'm on a hill & try to put it in reverse, it'll grind. Even if i'm rolling backwards it won't go into gear. Only when i'm on level ground does it get into gear. Wierd eh? Looks like i'm gonna have to rebuilt this 1g tranny in the near future. Doh!Saber!...!...! =oP

Looks kinda obvious to me. Better open that valve cover back up & look for that bolt...Saber!...!...! =/

Don't forget to do a complete service on your new baby: Oil change, tranny fluid change, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, etc...Saber!...!...! :thumb::dsm:

Now you can get a Turbo DSM! Whoo Hoo!Saber!...!...! :thumb: :dsm:

It's in there alright. That cd covers Talons/Eclipses/Lasers. But i still like to look stuff up in the chilton manual. Doesn't hurt to keep books around dude.Saber!...!...! :thumb: