I found a good 90 isc at the wrecker and now the car idles good! The 90's must be wired differently at the isc, the wires are the same up to the connector.

I'm having the exact same problem, did putting in the original isc fix the surge?

I have a friend who owns a machine shop but it does sounds like a pain.I have flanges on order to make a divided manifold but that won't be ready until spring, so I was looking for a quick way to get this up and running.I'm runing a 2g manifold with a t3 adapter plate and a 5 bolt t3 02...

Hey Holset gurus! I have a .63 t3 garrett housing machined for a stage 3 wheel from my old set up. Can this be machined for the hx35 wheel to fit? They both use the same clamps to secure the centre cartrige on.

I had this same problem and was able to get it off with some heat and a hammer, unfortunatly i did bend a few fins. Can these be straighted out or do i need a new wheel?

Thanks for all the info, this is some great stuff to know!! Unfortunatly I was able to have a closer look inside the compressor housing today and found that the wheel is in bad shape most of the fins are bent and some are missing chunks. New turbo time I guess.

Sweet thanks for the info. There are some 360 thrust rebuild kits on ebay i think i will buy. I will tear the turbo down before ordering it though to make sure it is rebuildable.What should i be checking for in terms of damage. Obviously wheel and housing damage but what about shaft and...

Hey guys, turbo took a crap the other day. I was doing a 4 gear tuning pass and let off the gas then the cloud of smoke started. Lots of blue smoke! Checked the turbo for shaft play, and sure enough there is some up and down but none in and out.Its a 60-1 hifi with a stage 3 turbine...

What material is the full faced disk made of?

Damn, looks like the sintered iron package is discontinued. :notgood:

I didn't realize Mcleod was making a clutch for our cars. A new clutch is on the to do list this winter as the centerforce is slipping bad. Where did you purchase yours from?

OK, did a little experiment tonight. Went for a run with the current ecu and leaned it out to get some knock showing, got between 13 to 18 counts of knock. Timing started at 13 went up to 16 then fell off to 14 by redline. Put in the eprom unit, it showed no knock at all, but timing started...

OK after a little searching around:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185468&highlight=factory+socket. This is the same socket mine has. Same style label on the front except that it has C.S instead of engineering sample. That still doesn't help me with the no knock showing...

Ok now I'm a little confused, did some factory ecu's come with a socketed eprom from the factory? Just pulled mine open and it has a blue socket with a locking arm on it that allows the socket to slide relasing the eprom chip. There is a label on the eprom with hand writing on it. first 3...

Hey Steve, these are some numbers off the eprom unit with the problem. e2t34478-p, md145903. On the side it has a large 5903. Its been a couple of years since i changed the ecu's but i remember going out and logging it getting maybe 5 degrees advance with no knock, switched the ecu and got the...

Hey guys, I have an eprom ecu from a 90 that i want to get a chip made for only problem is that it doesn't show knock at all. Ecu sees knock and pulls timing accordingly but doesn't send the value to the logger. Sometimes i was getting 0 timing advance at wot showing no knock. Switching to a...

Well, start with the basics. Check to make sure you are getting spark at each cylinder. Make sure all the injectors are working and make sure you have compression. I had the same problem on a rebuilt engine, the machinist cut one of the seats up higher than the rest and didn't cut down the...

Get some 80 grit cartridges for a die grinder and that should be smooth enough.

If you are talking about the crap right at the top of the bore then you will need a ridge reamer. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts311.htm. Hope this helps. :)

I think the major problem with the larger valves is the amount they are shrouded in the combustion chamber. Try to unshroud them as much as possible if possible. I'm building a 2.4 and with the bigger bore you can unshroud them quite a bit.

Have you even seen a stock 1g head? The ports are huge. You don't want to open up the runners anymore than they already are. Remove a couple of the casting flaws and polish the exhaust and good to go.

No one here is giving you any attitude..... yet. Like i said before do a lot of searching around on this site, it is apparent that you have alot to learn yet.What the hell is your second paragraph talking about? :confused:

What is predestination? I've never heard of it. I also didn't realize mugen made an intake manifold for the 4g63, I thought it was all Honda shit.I don't think the majority of people on here can tell you how to make 500 hp because most of us aren't there yet. It's a small engine, you...

I think the 4g63 has been proven time and time again to have a very stout engine from the factory. I believe the evo's have similar rods to the 2g's and look at the power some of those guys are making. I'm building a 2.4 and am using forged parts but you gotta do what the wallet allows you to...

If your engine is tuned right the 1g rods should be fine. Check at the machine shop to see how much it would be to have the rods shot peened and polished. This will add alot of strength. Also make sure to put some arp rod bolts in them as they are very cheap insurance that your rods wont...

Lots of boost is not going to cause the damage, it's the detonation that goes with it if you don't have enough fuel to support it. Is this a 1g or a 2g? I don't understand why people that are building engines on a budget don't just stay with 1g pistons and save themselves on the machining of...

You're building a turbo engine so compression is not much of an issue as it is with n/a engine. The lower the compression you run the more boost you should be able to run before hitting detonation. Most companies that make pistons for the 4g63 are between 7.5:1 to 10:1. Oh and I hope you have...

It all boils down to detonaton. It is the fact that the green wheel is more efficient than the 16g, which means it will be putting out much cooler air temps. The cooler the the intake charge the less fuel you will need. I was able to run more boost on a 57 trim than my 16g before hitting...

Thanks guys that is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the diagram Rick! :thumb:

Hey guys, still looking for this. Thanks.

I wouldn't clear it if I were you. If you are planning to use just aerosols i would just go with a flat color. Gloss paint shows up all the imperfections, flat won't.

Did I ask if you think not running an oil cooler is a bad idea? NO. If you do not know the answer to the question i asked find another thread to take off topic.

Just want to have less plumbing and less chance of something leaking. The car is not my daily driver so a cooler will not be necessary. The n/t housing does not have any provisions for running an external cooler. Actually found a picture on the web for a n/t housing and it looks quite a bit...

Hey guys, I'm putting together a 2.4 hybrid and was wondering if the oil filter housing from the g4cs is the same as the non turbo 4g63 housing? I have a '90 and do not want to use the external oil cooler setup. Thanks!

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has a diagram for what to weld in the center diff. I know I came across one a while ago but can't seem to find it again. Thanks!

Hey Brian just a quick question about piston to head clearance. I am building a 6 bolt 2.4 and am using the K564m87's. I've heard that having a smaller quench area is better for warding off detonation. If i remember correctly this set sits .008 down in the cylinder. I was thinking of shaving...

Most of the kits out there have intercoolers that are not as wide and they just enlarge the holes on either side of the radiator and run the pipes through there.

Not sure if you have seen this or not:http://www.geocities.com/bennyhoffb/cepadsm/fmic/customfmic.htmNot mine but i did similar routing for the piping.Pic of my fmic:

Anyone running nitrous nozzles and jets for water. If so what size.

Yes it definately does, thank you! I will be reshaping the combustion chamber a bit with unshouding the valves but i will also be getting the head shaved to keep it close to the same cc. Any advice on the quench area size?

Oh ya 1 more question. Since i'm running a little more bore i will unshroud the valves a little more, but what is the deal with polishing the combustion chamber? Very smooth or a little rougher to help with mixture?

I'm in the process of building up a 2.4, and am wondering what kind of piston to head clearance I should be shooting for. I've heard the smaller the better to help with reducing detionation. The pistons I'm getting have an .008 deck clearance. I'm thinking of decking the block to bring the...

Hahn racecraft has the adaptor plates and sells them seperatly. I bought one and they are rediculously overpriced. If you have any fabricating skills it wouold be very easy to make one.

Well I took it apart and its ugly. There is so much play that the thrust bearing enlarged the hole in the backing plate. :barf: Hopefully the shaft can be reused. Its not blue but there are marks on it where it rides on the bearings. The thrust bearing does have some blue on it. I guess...

Hello all. I put on a new garret turbo a couple of weeks ago and within a week started getting an incredible amount of smoke poring out the tailpipe. Switched back to the 16g and all is good again. Here's the thing, there is crazy shaft play back and forth and in and out. Theres at least 1/8...

I tried running a -3 line from the oil filter housing to a big 16g. It is way too much pressure and was forcing a ton of oil past the seal on the compressor side and the piston ring on the turbine side, switched it to running it off the head with ss line tonight so hopefully it should be good.

Well it looks like the turbo was not balanced. Too much shaft play and the compressor wheel is rubbing on the housing. GRRRR. BEWARE of ebay turbos, looks like you get what you pay for.

Hello all, just installed a new t3/t4 and it is not building boost at all. I didn't have any intercooler pipes off so I'm guessing its not a boost leak, just tested it for leaks a couple of weeks ago. I can hear the turbo whining but its just not boosting. I am using a 35 mm wastgate off the...

I don't think it will work, it is too tight in there for the jaws of the tool to fit around the spring. Check out the vfaq on valve seal replacement and you will see the tool you will need. Its the Miller one.

Thats the same intercooler I'm trying to fit right now! I'm just using the bottom 8 inches of it, that way i don't have to hack up the bumper rebar. Also 36*8*2.5 is close to the same area as alot of the "street" cores out there. With it having more length and shorter depth you'd think it...