Right on, it's pretty much what I figured. I just wanted to double check/make sure. Not to easy to find these housings nowadays. Thank you sir!

Am I correct thinking that the torque spec for the banjo bolt fitting for the cooler lines on a 90 ofh is 29-36 ft/lbs?

Agreed. Heck I started installing an OEM cross today and had the issue where even with the silver clips it was on that borderline of tight but almost binding. Where do you go from there when you've used the thinnest ones?

if you can get a hold of one try an evo 9 bov out. its all metal not plastic so it will leak a lil less.

sometimes the bearing won't have play and it could still be bad. how old/ worn are your tires?

i 2nd ets i have ther gvr4 kit on my car the fitment is awesome and everything is high quality couplers piping t bolt clamps everything. my kit is also in my avatar pic.

yeah i didn't finish what i was saying to well.... what i meant is that in a comparison with regular halogen bulbs in a set of clear glass 93 headlights you can actually see opposed to not seeing with the original headlights from a 93 and under galant.

yeah they did make clear lenses for the galant. 93 galants came with a clear glass housing and a better designed reflector, both of my galants have a set in them. the cutoff isn't much better but if you have regular halogen bulbs in them you can actually see at night as opposed to barely seeing...

well all together i was actually kidding, i really didn't care about the negative feedback on my setup and i was expecting someone like you to jump on me like you did so i had it coming. idk where i live it every other car you see on the road had hids in a non projector housing and you kinda...

hes only successfully done one set so far im not sure if he'll do anymore....

im quite aware that the housing wasnt designed for the longer hid bulb. and i know it for sure blinds other poeple driving on the other side of the road but im cheap and nieve. nor does anyone make a set of hid headlights for a galant and yes ther are guys who do take tsx projectors and put them...

well its half and half, sure it may spool relatively quick but how much sooner in the powerband 1k 1500k and then the highest you rev out to is 7500 8K (maybe...). so think about it say the car with the 2.6 would spool at 3500 well then you have full boost for 4k-4500k and then say you have the...

then you motor needs 14:1 high compression pistons (running c16 at all times) and you have to have an awesome valvetrain and have it rev out to 10 :)btw i had an afc2 in my galant gsx (nt awd) and the only difference to wiring it up from a turbo to a nt is thers no knock sensor wire to tap...

if you shop right and what not 1500 can go pretty far on the gsx

i have a $100 6000k kit in my gvr4 and i love it. it does have a shity beam pattern (ther is light everywhere and not cut off at all) but i don't car to much, i can still see well.

its perfectly fine, no need to do anything to. mine has been off my galant (along with the bracket) for over a year now. and my system is still in tact and pressurized.

like everyone else said it depends on your power goals. and what kind of powerband you would like say for instance the evoIII will be very streetable as would a tdo5 20g. where as if you go with a 50 trim or a tdo6 20g you will have a turbo better suited for top end power and higher boost along...

I would recommend a thermal R&D muffler, but they arent cheap...

well its either that some of the 92s came with them and some didn't or they started the 2 pistons in 93

its also a smaller rotor to but, just take the whole caliper (bracket and all with its own pads cause they are different to) and bolt it up to the car with the rotor from the fwd. all of the early awd used the smaller caliper that are on the fwd's. from 90-91 the awd used the smaller single...

it all depends on the compression ratio of the pistons you use. to compensate for the fact that running really high boost will be useless you use higher compression piston.

what i did is when i took them out i melted the rubber out with a map gas torch. then i took a flat head screw driver and wedged it between the actuall mount and that inner ring a beat on the end of the screw driver so it would bend the inner ring from the inside and it would slip out/used a saw...

yeah he might have made 420+... but thats completely maxed out. the evo III does not flow enough cfm in order to make more power than that. including the fact that after 25 psi that turbo is basically a hair dryer.... in order to make that type of power you also have to be ON TOP of your game...

just drive it and whatever happens, happens. case and point you bought a used part that is high wear part.... did you happen to see the clutch before it was put in? alot can behad in 10,000 miles...

it won't sound bad if your wondering. i gutted mine with stock exhaust on my galant gsx and it basically sounded no different. for a while i took off the cat and only had just the manifold and the front portion of the original exhaust (basically a downpipe) and it sounded SICK lol

with a 2g the strut assembly surrounds the axle itself keeping it from doing much damage. if anything it might take out an abs sensor wire/actual brakeline. but those are so far away the only way they would get damaged is by shrapnel of any kind form the axle breaking finallly. if it does break...

gvr4's came stock with a "front mount" but it is no bigger than a dsm sidemount and its not as thick. easily said it will heatsoak just as bad a stock sidemount on a dsm. not to mention the stock piping is soooooo small were talkin like 1" and 1/4 size diameter piping in certain areas.

are the wisecos used?

meh thats just you breaking the tires loose... ROFL. but as the guy above said about the tob it will only make noise when not depressed. thats how mine was when i fubared mine. when i pulled mine out of the trans it fell apart into about 5 pieces right ther and then :D

its an alright clutch but it all depends on the power you make. if it fits for the mods you have and you don't expect to launch the car everytime you let out the clutch go for it. i bought and ebay stage 2 xtd clutch and its lasted me 3 good years of daily driving/ beating the shit out of it...

could be a collapsed lifter, try and push down on it and see if it goes down at all/ see if you can pull the lifter up (the lifter is the thing that i under the rocker arm that the rocker arm rocks on) and by pull up i mean pull the tip out of the lifter iself. the cam lobe might be crazy ground...

well i live in illinios... but i own a gvr4...i have a buddy who goes to school out in iowa, but he drives an 05 legacy gt...do you have any questions about the car before buying it?

other than that is just to check the lower control arm bushings along with the actuall strut assembly. make sure the struts aren't leaking at all and what not.

didnt think it seemed like my reply was opinionated... but here ya go.http://http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/index.htmllook down at the bottom of the home page where it says wideband shootout in the innovate in the media secton and read the article.

i payed 400... but it also came with a tdo5 20g :D. just do it the ebay way though like everyone else has said

check the axles and see if the boots are ripped or not. make sure thers no slop in the wheel bearings. pads and rotors? also check your brake lines and make sure ther are no tears in the outer rubber lining along with signs of dry rot.

right about now the innovate is the most accurate and fastest reacting one out ther. aems are fine also but as for the best on the market right now its the innovate.

which is very weird cause even motors with high miles still leave the honing marks.

don't waste your time with the sleeper 16g the compressor wheel is to big for the housing and it will choke up top. you'll be lucky to see a 10 hp difference between the sleeper 16g and an evo 3 16g. its just a waste of money. all the turbos that have been talked aka 20g's (along with the new...

all i have to say is that, honest to god truth its all in the driver. if you can't drive your car you won't get good times.

as for the timing belt tensioner it will not fit/work.

NOOOO!!! an evo 3 motor is a 7 bolt and yes the jdm 7 bolts can/will get crankwalk

ha funny thing im borrowing the extra one but the guy i am borrowing from aparently doesn't care that i have it as would i lol.

rb25-thanks for you being willing to let me borrow your stand, but this is going to be a LONG build seeing as I only have about 1500 spending money as of right now so it will be a slow process of getting money and then buying parts and eventually I will have all the parts here and ready to...

ther is a point to where you start knocking if your to rich but were talkin like reallly rich in order to reach it.

alright well ive heard of all the n/a people using our resistor packs for ther high impedence injectors (cause they end up using low impedence injectors/ peak hold ones) but never the other way around. im also glad to see you answered my question. show me the thread you found that info from...

^^why do you say to go with the t4?

go with the dv/dt fab fmic, sooooo big yet they go with the 2g styling so well. no wastegate eh? freewheeling a 35r FTMFW!! i might have an engine stand that you could borrow. also throw in a waterpump and a oil pump (oem of cousre) along with all the timing belt goodies, its up to you wheher or...