Bump wheels and driveshaft sold.Not on here often email me for faster response [email protected]

HLA and head studs sold

Pictures

FS: 2g GSX PartsStarting to part my car out and this is what I have available off the car as of today.Located at 08230PayPal: [email protected] have item shipped 2-3 days after payment. Parts sold as is.Parts off the car:Found this upright and don’t remember much about it other...

FS: 2g GSX PartsStarting to part my car out and this is what I have available off the car as of today.Located at 08230PayPal: [email protected] have item shipped 2-3 days after payment.Parts off the car:Found this upright and don’t remember much about it other than it’s brand new...

All new parts for a 2g: GST gas fuel filler neck #MR271612. $100 shipped/paypaledRear Hatch latch #MR358944 $25 shipped/paypaledValve cover that was professionally disassembled, baffles removed, cleaned, new baffle welded, and the powder coated red. Best job I’ve seen. Also has AN...

Mut-II with case and tapes and manuals. What you see is what you get $250 shipped/paypaledRebuilt alternator with dsm performance 2gAL pulley installed $55 shipped/paypaled

In theory your professor is probably right but in real life he’s wrong. I’ve hit over 100% more times than I’d like to admit in my Subaru and on stock turbo/injector STIs it’s not that uncommon. I’ve seen people post logs with 110+ IDC

Awesome that’s great to hear!!

Guess I’ll try some 2000grit paper and take it to a local machine shop for their opinion. Worst case I’ll just send it to delta if they will fix if for only 125. If they will do it for that cheap doesn’t even really make financial sense to try and have a machine shop polish it

It’s only the one cam and that one lobe. At the end of cam there is alil pitting too but it’s not on a lobe. I usually wouldn’t run something like this if it was all the lobes. I really don’t wanna spend too much money on them unless it for sure will make it a 100% since I’m pretty sure I could...

The pitting can be felt with finger nail. Wondering if they can ran as is, polished out, worth getting welded/fixed, or is it fubar

I have a built motor with high mileage that I’m going to do a quick rebuild since timing belt tensioner went. Going to rebuild head, reseal engine, rings, hone, bearings, etc. Car is a weekend toy that I do DD occasionally.Took cams out and they had some surface rust that cleaned up real well...

Mag with 399 sticker is sold

Have 3 Mafs for sale. 60 each shipped/paypaled would do a deal if bought more than one.Not on here often so email is probably best. [email protected]

Dude it’s battery wire. Not that expensive and important I wouldn’t cheap out on something like that

Those shaving arnt from Mitsu factory.I can almost guarantee the cause is from the previous owner getting the head decked and no one cleaned out that passages. IMO that motor is trashed. Junking it and starting over on a new longblock would be the way to go.

Isn't the main point that you can easily over run the stock FPR? I thought thats why most upgrade not to turn up base FP

Sorry but sounds like the car has alot of issues. If its leaking more than a few drops of oil over night you need to fix that asap. Then do a compression and leakdown to make sure the motor is in heathly enough condition to make power.Also 80$ to rebuild a turbo is probably not the correct...

Sounds like blown rings...like others have said do a leakdown and see where the leaking is coming from

do whatever maintence you can that you know needs to be done

O....I'd start emailing/calling all the venders you can and keep an eye out in the private FS section

^IMO if you doing all that work you better be doing a back half also

Id stay with the stock 5-speed for 300-400whp since it will be more fun to drive then once the car is making 600 then look into swapping the auto in so shes a beast in the 1/4

I'd make sure the slave and master are good before you go out and buy a new clutch and drop the trans. Might be all you need.Ive ran both the 2100 and 2600 and unless you going to make 475+ and track the car stay with the 2100. ALso Ive ran south bends on Subarus and they are great clutches...

What do you use the car for? Any budget?I've ran the NT05s and Pilot SS and I prefered the Pilots

silverex submitted a new DSM Profile :2g GSXRead more about this vehicle here...

I'd go with Fuel lab. On the subaru forums more than 1 person has had problems with their aeromotive. With that said I run aeromotive without issue

What are your goals for the car? People run 400whp+ on stock 5-speeds without issue. Of course some fail at even stock power but it comes down to the driver and how well the car was maintained.Also don't both 1g and 2g have about the same aftermarket options??

ETS has them on their site, have you tried calling them?

I'd do all metal moving parts

I bet most use whatever they want from Jegs/Summit ect. Its a custom job so I'd talk to who is doing the work and see what he recommends... but I bet at end of day it doesnt really matter

Check timing, and sending the injectors for cleaning would be the first things I'd do

Why doesnt't it happen with the stock pump....that makes no sense to me. I know some aftermarket pumps sit alittle higher so you can't run them down as much. IMO just keep the tank above 1/2 its not that bad of a deal unless you do long commutes all the time

thats serious rust....not worth any effort just part it out

I would think there'd be MORE oil in that intake if you were leaking that much past the piston rings. Like another member said double check that your doing/reading everything right and do it to a 100PSI this time

You should be fine driving the car. Mine has rust in about the same area but not as bad and I'd have no worries taking the car to a road course. Like others have said its in a easy spot to fix. I would cut it out and weld her up...itd be a good time to reinforce that jack point also

RPM doesn't really matter if the timing is far off....its going bend valves no way around that. Since the valves broke you have a slim chance of only needing a head. Usually when that happens it takes out the pistons and bearings also. Like another member mentioned not much else to do then pull...

I'am thinking it could be my afpr is there anyway to check it?I bumped it upto 39 and it ran richer and better on tip in. I doubt its the pump or the filter but i'am still going to replace the filter.Yea, that didnt help at all and a search didnt bring anything i'am looking for. If you...

i have a brand new plx m-300 wideband and i'am pretty sure this one never needs to be calibrated.If the fp has good voltage i'll bump the fp up and give that a try tomorrow. When i check the fp will i see a ground and a red wire right there to test on the top of the pump?

fp is 37.5 w/ line off. aeromotive afpr i'll check the pumps voltage and see if the o-ring is riped or anything. I ordered a new fuel filter and that should be here anyday. I also agree and think its not tune related but wouldnt i see knock with low 13 afr at wot with 18psi?

I belive its a part problem and not tune related. With my keydiver chip i shouldnt have to make such big adjustments with the afc. Taking it to a shop to get tuned only to relized that my fuel pump is dieing or something else would be a waste $ which i dont have.

I just got a brand new plx m-300 wideband and installed it yesterday. At idle my a/f was in the 11s, so i lean it out with the afc 35% and now it hovers around 14.5-15 and idles much better. After that i took it for a rip around the block and noticed that my a/f was in the high 12s and 13s I...

http://www.labattz.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=11843&highlight=tunerpro

could be an exhaust leak pre-turbo....like a crackin the mani

bottom of the oil pan...its 14mm or it might be 17mm i forget...you might not even need to jack the car up. if that helps hook my reputation up

pull the oil drain plug then replace it after about 1/2 qt comes out. Then check the oil level and if you have to add more, add more oil. It will be a little messy so have a couple towels around

it was yellow and i think it was the 9psi spring, i did about 20 WOT passes and then it stayed open at idle. I mailed it out to get looked at and they said they would look at the spring to see if it sagin but everything seemed fine when i took it off and if its not the wg i'am completly lost of...