Ok I know this idle topic has been beaten to death, I am going to do all of the trouble shooting tonight, but I was curious if any of you had the same problem, My idle escalates to 2000 and if I turn theh a/c on it settles down to 750, so is this a tell tale sign of a certain part, vacuum line...

I found the thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256619&highlight=pin+6On the plug for the mas: Check pin 6 green/black wire for a good ground. Check pin 4 green/red wire for 5v supply.Hope this helps.

I would almost bet money there is a big boost leak."Wouldnt it have to be a pretty big leak for the engine to kill itself?"Unplug your pcv valve and see how your car idles, I've forgot to hook mine back up before and had the same problem.

Well I like the fact that the ones down where I go to college don't know the difference between the different kinds of fruits and vegetables. We eat a lot of that stuff and the machine usually just charges for the cheapest kind in the produce section. So I like 'em very much.

If anyone cares to know, having been back home from school for the summer I was able to work this issue most of the way out. I fixed my bov boost leak for the third time finally, and my j-pipe leak at the turbo outlet flange (I really despise these j-pipes). I also removed the lower honeycomb on...

Ah I must edit this, I just noticed you included the word noise. Have you tried to figure out where the noise is coming from?

That is ridiculous, I would be extremely pissed off if I received that ticket.

Wow that was incredible.

Haha, it's a 1984 Buick Century (4-Cylinder.) You wanna talk about a car with no balls. It does me good though, still gets 28-30 mpg and only cost me 500 big ones. Best investment I think I've made since I've had the talon. Oh and the cab lights aren't stock, they are a one off.

Figure you all might get a kick out of my d.d.

Well you should tell him (and everyone else) how to double clutch.

I can do it at ~10-13psi but no more, or I will get that stutter.

I will try the easy route first by sending the chip in and getting it redone for the 11.5:1 tune. Thanks again for the help, and sorry I am slow getting back to you all, my life is hectic right now. :talon:

I had an safc a while back, but wasn't able to tune the miss out of it so I pulled it out. I guess I will put it back in and try again (hopefully I'll have some free time in the next few weeks.) I have another stock fpr I will swap and see what happens. It might be a while before I get to...

I didn't want to start another post, so I am bringing this one back up that I started a couple weeks ago. Well, I was looking through some previous posts and I read that base pressure is supposed to be 38 (with the vacuum hose disconnected from the fpr), well I checked my base pressure the...

Has the car been sitting for some time? We had the same problem on a freebie car we got from a guy. It had sat for some time and it wouldn't run unless we sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body. The fuel pump was shot, for what reason I don't know. We pulled the pump out and tried to...

I had a friend replace his timing belt without my help and he had sort of the same thing happen. Problem was that he installed the pulley on the timing belt tensioner arm backwards. Might be something to look at. In all honesty it wouldn't take ya that long to get the front cover off and have...

Get a datalogger and turn it up until you start to get knock.

Sorry about taking so long to reply, my schedule has been extremely busy lately. On topic now, it isn't the injector seals, I just replaced them about a month ago and I have sprayed soapy water all over the I.M. gasket and all of the connections including the injector seals. I will keep trying...

I've got a leak that can be heard thru the valve cover so I pulled the valve cover off and made sure it wasn't my pcv valve. I am having a hard time telling whether it is coming thru a valve guide or not. It is a pulsating leak, any ideas of what this might be before I go tearing the head off...

I use MMCD tools for logging; is there a way I can log these parameters with this. I never could figure out how or where to log lb/m using this program. Also what is gm/sec? Maybe gallons/minute. Thanks again you all. :cool:

I am only running a stock maf with 680cc injector compensation on the chip. I was going to turn the boost up more but I was a bit hesistant because of the backfire. Tonight or tomorow I will turn the boost up some more and see what I get and if that doesn't help I will modify my maf like...

TIMA O2-R TPS RPM KNCK INJP Duty Cycle 27° 0.80V 30.6% 3063 0 4.61ms 15 27° 0.76V 30.6% 3156 0 4.61ms 15 28° 0.06V 30.6% 3250 0 4.86ms 16 28° 0.06V 30.6% 3313 0 4.86ms 17 28° 0.68V 30.6% 3375 0 4.86ms 17 28° 0.78V 31.4% 3469 0 4.86ms 18...

I think I would be stickin my foot in my mouth if I were to act cocky about my car. Every time I get my car running good my friends are there to see something else break. Be it that day or a couple weeks later, it's always something.

Early Christmas for you! :rocks:

I don't mean to bring this thread back up, but I just wanted to let you guys know that I had the same problem with mine. They sent me another one and I had the same problem again, well I contacted them the last time and they told me others were having the same issue and that they had the new...

I've had a hell of a time with these bov's. I am supposed to be getting another sent from the manufacturer soon. They said they had a problem with the lock rings in the bov not seating right. This is my second (going on the third) one so definetely do a boost leak test after you install yours.

See what the price difference is for new rotors, and for getting the old ones turned. Alot of times it doesn't cost much more for new rotors. Oh yes and I don't think that you would be able to see the warpage. Although I've never closely examined my "warped" rotors I have always replaced them...

That is a pretty cool idea there. I always wondered how I would know if the "j-pipe" gasket was leaking. I have always leak checked mine by hooking my home-made tester up to the line going into the in side of the intercooler.

I just did the same thing to a 91 1g I bought for 200$. It was in good shape mind you, the lady just didn't want it anymore, the radiator was the only problem... Well my friends and I beat the hell out of that car, It felt pretty damn good. Like mentioned above something has to pay for the...

Thanks for the replies everyone. Yep King Air 350, one of my favorite airplanes to "tow." I am a ramp rat for the time being, until I leave again.Cheers everyone

Just a quick little shot of my car next to one of a customers airplane at where I work.

I'd check to make sure the two bolts on your intemediate shaft are tight. Another thing, your output shaft from the tranny to transfer case didn't slide out when you removed the transfer case did it?

It's a switchable tranny, you can run fwd only by removing a bolt or somethng and moving the lever. I will try to find some more info on it. Would be nice for taking your car to the dyno and whatnot.

You haven't had your reverse light switch out lately have you? I made the mistake of mixing the location of my reverse light switch with a bolt in my early days and had the same problem.

I'll have to agree, it felt like a big part of this site was missing. You have been an extremely active member since I joined this site and your replies were usually very clear and full of clean by-the-book information. I surely missed you around here, but I can see why you needed a break...

I finally found the MD part number in case anyone else needs it down the road.Output Shaft Seal is MD723202

I called the local auto parts stores to get this seal and none of them can seem to match it up to anything in their computers. Is this a dealer only item?

I share the joy with ya. I blew the center diff in my car a couple months ago and between work and school I had no time to fix it. Well I just got it running again the other night, and installed my poly kit along with a couple other things...Always forget how much fun it is to drive my...

Call up your local alternator/battery specialty stores and find out how much they will charge you to rebuild it. Shouldn't cost you to much.

Pull the alternator off and get it tested at one of the local parts stores. I have had similiar symptoms before and it turned out to be the alternator.

Machv is where I found them last night for 25$ a side. The guy at the dealer usually gives me a good discount, this time they where supposed to sell them for 75$ a side... he said he would give them to me for 50$. Hope this helps someone, and saves a little money.

I just wanted to let you all know that if you end up needing to purchase these, don't go through the dealer. I did because none of the local parts stores where able to get them. I just paid 50$ a side and then tonight I found the same thing on one of our vendors sites.

Pop the caps off your battery and make sure it is still topped off with distilled water.

I would really just swap alternators and see if it fixes the problem. If you think it is overcharging then it just might be the alternator, they usually do that before they are about to go.

I figure it's not worth dropping the insurance because it is so cheap already. If I wasn't such a procrastinator it would have been fixed 3 months ago. I'm starting to get motivated, just have alot of other things to do right now.

170$ every 6 months (Liability) on my 91 Talon that doesn't leave the driveway.

Air Gaurd. They pay for my college and pay me to go to college. One weekend a month and now I'm a Veteran so I get another four years of college paid for on top of the first four. I'm an F-16 Crew Chief, pretty fun job. It can suck a$$ sometimes though, but it was the best decision I could...