They should be able to tell with your VIN if it has ABS or not. More than likely you do not actually need this part. Make sure the hub is not bent though. Like it has been mentioned you can tell if you have ABS by the unit under the hood or by if it has speed sensors on the knuckle.
The 90 trans does fit but uses a taller shifter. Just remember that if it seems hard to shift. I would jack it up about 80 percent of the way and lift it / center it by hand for the rest. These are not that heavy and it should not take much to get it into place.
That clutch is worn but not quite done. You are not fully dis-engaging your clutch. How is the tob fork? Is it bent? try bleeding the system and adjusting the pedal to see if you can get it to dis-engage.
Just call up wiseco and order a set of rings from them. If you clean the tops of the pistons really well there is usually a number on them. You can give that to wiseco and they will know which rings to send you.
Definitely for a factory amp and CD changer. The amp would have been under the passenger front seat and the CD changer in the back. This came on all cars with the factory infinity stereo.
Also make sure nothing is touching the big wires going to the starter or alternator. I would guess it is related to you changing your clutch and should be simple to figure out.
Didn't they give you a report of what failed? It makes a big difference as to what it is polluting exactly. Its hard to give recommendations without more information.
Have you checked the wiring for the clutch pedal switch or neutral safety switch if its an auto? Also have you check all of the major fuses to make sure you don't have a blown one?
I agree with the above posts. If you are concerned about your wastegate actuator you could pull off the vacuum line and test it with some compressed air to see if it is opening and closing smoothly. If you don't have a compressor you can use a vacuum pump that will also pressurize to actuate it.
Have you checked timing? Also you could take the injectors out and actuate them with jumper wires and a battery. This will tell you if they are opening and closing. You could also have some broken wires possibly in the harness or bare wires that are making contact somewhere.
I would suggest seals and maybe bearings if they are worn. Its also not a bad idea to check out all of the synchro's while you you are at it along with the dog teeth on each gear.
If you use a 7 bolt block you will need to use a 7 bolt crank. Then if you want to use 6 bolt rods you will need to have them machined or you can buy them already machined for a 7 bolt crank from these guys...
White smoke usually means coolant or water. You should be able to smell the coolant if that is what it is. I would do a compression test and a leak down test to further diagnose what might be going on in the engine. Do a cooling system pressure test as well if you can. All of these test will...
If the threads are beyond repair I would either helicoil or drill and tap the hole to the next largest size in SAE. The only problem with the SAE bolt is you will possibly have to drill the hole slightly larger in the throttle body as well. Either one should work.
If price is limiting you I would go with a factory damper. Don't use the lightweight one as it does not dampen and will shorten the life of your engine. Otherwise go with an ati or fluidamper if its in the budget. I would only use the karking one if it comes with a warranty.
I am going to guess that a piston likely came apart and possibly a rod in the process. Pieces of the piston lodged between the valves and what was left of the piston, popping out the rockers when the cam was trying to open the valves. Your oil pan confirmes that something came apart and...
You have a bad sparg plug wire on cylinder number 4. That is what is causing the surging and rough driving. It has the classic signs of doing it only when under a load but goes away once you are up to cruising speed. When this happens you need to replace the plugs and wires both or the problem...
Sounds to me like you guys broke a shift fork. The trans will definitely have to come out and be taken apart to see what the damage is. I have a parts trans for a 90-92 FWD turbo if any of you are interested once you find out what is wrong. It is a working trans but 1st gear whines and the 1st...
That is how the cam gears look on a 2g 7 bolt motor. The intake cam gear is that way because it has the trigger wheel the cam angle sensor reads bolted to it. On a 1g the gears look the same.
Noise number one is either lifter tick or an exhaust leak. I think it is lifter tick. Noise number two is the normal tick of the injectors opening and closing. They can be louder on worn injectors but yours sound pretty normal to me. If you have an exhaust leak you need to remove the heat...
I would highly not reccomend running NT pistons in a turbo application. The motor will not be as strong. Especially when you can buy a set of aftermarket cast turbo pistons for around 100.00 bucks. Also always run premium in your car if you care about the engine.
You either need to hard wire your stereo into the factory wiring without the plugs using the guide in the last post for the wire colors or buy the right adaptor harness. The toyota one does not connect the right wires.
I had this happen once when going from a shot stock clutch to a clutchmasters 2500. Shimming the fulcrum ball will help. I found that my slave cylinder was borderline functional and it just wouldn't hold the pressure of the stiffer pressure plate. After replacing it, bleeding the system, and...
Just make sure your regular throttle cable is adjusted properly first before adjusting your cruise cable. This will make things accurate when you have someone press your pedal down and you adjust the cruise cable.