I guess it might be possible, but the amount of clearancing is probably huge. Probably have to get rid of the bearing cap bridges, and all of the ridge and maybe more in the balance shaft area. 2.4L block should require a little less. Someone was talking about it further back in this post...
I have done it once at about 14-15k. I'll probably check them again in another 5k since I'll have over 20k on them. I rev to about 8500 normally, but it'll see 9k at the track or dyno.
I'm still putting miles on my RNR's. Probably close to 20k on them. Still holding up, still don't regret it. I'm running ACL tri-metals drilled for the dowel pin. No issues
Brian is correct. You are just energizing a coil, so polarity doesn't matter. Probably got the code because the connector wasn't seated properly or a wire isn't making great contact.
I just picked up an Eastwood for dirt cheap with the warranty, so I'll see how it goes. Thermal Arc is made by Thermadyne who are big into plasmas. I was looking for a TA185 or the new TA186 for AC/DC TIG.I have heard very good things about the Fabricator line. To the people recommending an...
I've had some leak and some work ok. Just a thing to watch for, some have an allen head bolt holding the metal "lock tab" in. Take it out and red loctite it, I've seen a couple come loose, and one even fall into the head.
Not to jack your thread, but I've been running R&R aluminum rods in my Galant for almost 4 years now. Have about 15k miles on them. Just pulled the pan a couple weeks ago. Bolt stretch was ok and the torque was still 53-55ft.lbs. I drive it a few days a week, pretty much all year.
Could be the closed throttle stop is adjusted wrong (closes too much) and the plate is actually getting stuck closed when the aluminum body cools. You might want to open the plate just slightly, and readjust the idle with the BISS.
Actually opposite usually. Keeps the wind from the spinning crank from blowing the oil against the block/pan wall and away from the pickup. But most cars don't have them. You could run w/o it. But next oil change you might as well drop the pan and throw it in.
I doubt low fluid is the problem if it's only second gear. The noise when you push the clutch in could be a throwout bearing, or the clutch could be over adjusted and the pressure plate fingers could be rubbing on the clutch disk. Where does the pedal disengage?
As said above, do a compression and leakdown on your engine. I've thrown 30psi at a few engines over 150-160k miles. As long as it's done right, and not already hurt, it should be fine.
I personally wouldn't use it. But I've seen/done many t-belt jobs or engine teardowns and seen those sprockets like that and haven't seen weird wear on the belt or anything. I'm just OCD in my car.
The dipstick idea works. I have been reading a few threads on this lately, as I'm building my own setup currently, but I've seen a few people go as far as adding ports into the front balance shaft "bump" in the block below the waterpipe on the trans side. A couple have removed the balance...
He said he was drilling a stud out, so there will be some steel shavings as well.Either way, I would pull the valve cover, dump a few quarts of cheap oil over the exhaust cam and around where the stud was. Then best bet is pull the pan and clean it out. Otherwise most pieces will get...
I know an old school trick was to retard the exhaust cam one tooth for a bit more top end with a little sacrifice in idle and bottom end. So if you indeed are advanced a tooth, aside from the ECU pulling timing up top it should help top end with the cam in time.It's really tough to tell...
The #1 piston will always be up when the mark is at TDC. Which stroke doesn't matter for this test. Good thought on the balancer. I've been running a Fluidampr for long enough to forget about that problem.
Only thing I would watch with that is the .040" over bore. That's about the limit on a 4G63. Meaning block is trash if u ever burn a ring land or score a cylinder wall. Can someone with access to CAPS check to see if Mitsu even offers a .040" over piston?
It looks like the spacer that goes behind the front balance shaft pulley. If you did the BSE, you don't need it. But they do make convenient spacers for anything else so who knows if a P.O. put it somewhere.
Are you grounding the timing connector while checking? Not insulting you, just making sure.As far as the knock goes, my car gets a lot of rich knock so you might be going too far with adding fuel. Without a wideband though, it's only a guess. Any mods to the MAF?
What size injectors are you trying to control with that SAFC?For your problems, it could be a bad CAS, but they usually won't give consistent readings, or at any at all if it's bad. If your buddy has a 91-94, you can swap it for testing. 90's don't have the same wiring.Another thing that...
I always agree with this for personal satisfaction/knowledge and saving $$. But not everyone is capable of engine/trans assembly.I still stick to my recommendation for a 6-bolt swap.
The shorter 5th comes from the FWD 1G trans if I remember right. I have one set here, and a couple sets of the AWD ratio.P.S. - I envy you for finding a Cusco tarmac diff.
You are risking buying anything used, but I wouldn't rebuild a 2G 7 bolt either. I have had a couple friends get lucky with used built engines from private parties. Just make sure you take someone with you who knows a bit about DSM's, and do a compression test and pull the oil pan. If they...
They can't do just 2-4 unfortunately. I was hoping for that as well to keep the car a little more street friendly. They have to machine a new slider, so it will not work with the factory synchros. That means if you want 2, you get 1, and 3 gets 4. Oh well, DD dogbox won't be that hard.On...
I know these aren't on the same playing field as PPG/PAR etc. I just haven't seen a set of Liberty's in person, so didn't know if they looked ok.As far as the clearance, how much can you tilt the slider? The stock ones have a bit of play too with the keys removed. Do you think it's enough...
Have you gotten to make any passes yet with the Liberty setup? I have a set ready to send out, but I still DD the car, and have been doing a lot of research on it.
While I'm not a big body kit fan, a few of these don't look bad. What I can't get over though, is most aftermarket hoods (esp for 2g's). When they add scoops or vents, the have to bulge the entire hood to clear the cam gear cover and I think they look like ass from a side view.
blown- If you are on the GVR4 board, there is a guy from overseas that has Work XD9's in 18x9 30mm offset. They look sick, and require a little fender rolling, but I'm looking to do the same thing, just not sure if I want 17's or 18's yet.Edit: Just saw your started thread on the board...
The 1G and 2G belts aren't compatible. The 1G used a V-Belt. I think it's a combination of the 2G power steering brackets, and the 1G waterpump. I have a 2G p/s bracket on my GVR4 and the stock 1G belt is to tight as well. You could always just go to the parts store and get one .25"-.5"...
Thanks. I appreciate the kind words.We deal straight through Mitsu (in a round-about way ;-) ) so we can keep very competitive.If you ever have a question on a part you ordered through us we'll be happy to help you out in any way we can (on the flip side, we won't tech someone else's...
You use the bolts for the block you are using. 2g uses smaller bolts than a 1g. Don't worry, you can't mess it up. If you buy the wrong ones, they either physically won't fit in the holes, or will be loose and not thread in. Headgaskets are the same for all 90-99 years so it doesn't matter...
would you be interested in building one for me? or at least giving up the part numbers and such for me to build one? let me know asap as I have to go out today and get more AAA's. And I am assuming that I will be able to just use rechargeable AAA batteries in the palm right? thanks
I have a palm IIIxe and I want to upgrade to something that can charge while the ignition is on. Color would be nice too but not making a choice on it. What is everyone using/recommend? Thanks,Justin W
I agree with both sides on this. Now it took me a little while to read though all the replies so if I missed it at 3 in the morning I am sorry. But, I'm not sure if Mitsu does it the same way GM does, but I know the main problem with blocking the EGR was the ecu still thinks it's opening and...