I've had a similar issue and it was the ECU going out. I'd pull it and check the capacitors.

STM really helped me out yesterday. I placed an order months and months ago and received the order, but I never actually inventoried the box. After inspection, I noticed a few small items weren't there. I called STM and explained to them how I was missing some pieces and they took care of...

I sent a PM and an e-mail to Brian. Just waiting for a response so that I can place this order.

This is a great thread. A nice slow progression, which is the route most DSMers should be taking. Enjoy.

Your boostest is falling from 17psi to 12psi by the end of the run. You may have a boost leak somewhere. What BOV is on the car?

Click on "go advanced" below my post.Then scroll down where it says "attach files". Then just find the log you want to post.

Timing is going crazy, up to 30*. Have you set the base timing to 5*BTDC?MAFRaw is also showing 770Hz!!! This should be at around 50Hz at idle. I would say something is up with the GM MAF you are using.

Your boostest is 39psi. I would start from the beginning. Boost leak check, dial in global fuel, dial in MAF.

Boost/intake leaks?

Turn the ignition key on and observe the check engine light. It should be on for a few seconds and then turn off by itself. This is a good indication that the ECU is working properly. If the light comes on and stays on, then something may be wrong with the ECU. If you hear a bunch of relays...

Yes, the GVR4 front engine mount is different. Sell it on the Galant board, as they are somewhat desirable.

It's white and it's on the firewall center position.

Could you possibly host your videos to youtube? They will be forever saved for everyone.

Does the engine turn over at all? This is the first step.

First gens will not start with a missing coolant temp sensor. However, that does not explain the no-crank situtaion.

It's almost as if you are trying to make your car break as fast as possible. Then, you get to buy parts twice.

You need to check fuel pressure. I know you think you have pressure, but an accurate reading is key.

Those appear out of range if it is indeed 7-8ohms. What symptoms does your car have that lead you to testing the coilpacks.

You will need to run a relay very similar to the fuel pump rewire. Your ignition power source will need to be setup with a switch from a 12v source. That 12v source will lead to the relay you install. The thick gauge wire coming off of the relay will be run to your fan.Check out the fuel...

What are the ohm readings on your ISC?

This sounds like a case of bad spark plug wires. A boost leak is probably likely as well. Try an ohm test on the wires.

Relays clicking typically means they are working. The click that you hear is the sound of the relay closing the circuit, thus completing the electric path.

Are you sure you have a good battery?

Open it up, obviously. There will not be any visible outside markings. Most shops will repaint the transmission. If it has the original paint on it, then I doubt it has been altered from a shop.

The cables should need zero adjustment after a clutch install.Leave the car in neutral while putting the shift linkage back on the transmission. Be sure you bled the system thoroughly.Take off the cables and try to put the vehicle in reverse by hand at the transmission.

Always start with a boost leak test. Do you have a vacuum gauge?

You have an ABS ring on the back of your knuckle. It needs to be pressed off. You will have to remove the entire knuckle to do it right.Go to the junkyard and get a new hub.

The bearings will hold whatever horsepower you throw at them.Do not skip on bearings. The fact that you are even asking this makes me question the integrity of your build.

Make sure all of the bolts that hold the trans to the engine are there. If they are loose, the transmission will actually get pushed off of the engine when you push in the clutch.Have a person push the clutch, while you get under the vehicle and watch for clutch for movement. It should...

The starter could be getting bound up. What kind of flywheel did you use?It sound like the starter works on a bench test, right?You will need some sort of amp meter, like a VAT-40 to check the amps @ the starter while cranking. It sounds like the starter ground wire though.

It isn't press fit, so get that out of your head.Have you tried spinning the trans by turning the engine by hand while in gear to maybe get the gears on the input shaft to move a little?

The front case is just a piece of cast machined aluminum. The part of the front case you want to inspect are the oil pump gears inside the case.I would replace those oil pump gears for sure if it is a mystery front case.

You need a logger to verify that the ECU is seeing the same erratic coolant temp behavior.If it is seeing the same behavior, I would start testing/changing coolant items. If the ECU returns normal coolant temp operation, I would suspect the dash or sensor specific to the gauge.

These all sound like fuel pressure/fuel pump problems. Very cheap places to start.

You need to do an amp test on your starter.

FP Green. It has been the best cost/performance turbo for 5 years.

You could also have a bent track, which can't really be fixed.

Pull the injector and look for cracks/grime on the injector. Sometimes it is easily noticeable.

Excessive tiny vibrations that could eventually ruin bearings. Four cylinder engines do not require balancing like v6/8 engines.All your machinist should be doing is cleaning the block, bore/hone, check clearances, file fit rings.

Many times the stock crankshaft pulley will separate. All it is is two pieces glued together.Do you have exhaust manifold shields? No heat shield will do more damage to an alternator than power steering fluid.

Two hoses run from under the thermostat/throttle body to the firewall. The hoses cost less than $5. Pick up some new clamps as well.

Take off your intake pipe that goes to the turbo. Grab the little nut on the turbo fins and pull in/out up/down. If you can easily move it around, the turbo is bad. Everything should stay right in place.

Buy a complete "turbo back kit".If you are a newbie, I would stay away from a new "turbo elbow" (aka o2 housing). They are rather difficult to install and you can always add one later.You need a 2g FWD Turbo turboback kit. Keep watching eBay.

What are you using to tune? If it is dsmlink, there is a way to eliminate the knock readings under a certain throttle %.

No, the VR-4's had a slightly different wiring setup. The VR-4 MAS has the lower "honeycomb" removed, thus the car has a slightly different tune.What you need is a plug built like this from this link (it also describes the VR-4 differences).2G MAF in a 1G TEL/GVR4

Have you done a compression test first?Now, do a boost leak check. Is your timing correct? I doubt either of these things have been addressed.If all these are in order, I would say spark plugs and wires. The 3 tests I first talked about are all free with the right tools. Find these tools...

Boost leak, possible closed throttle switch. May also have a dirty throttle body.

Do not try and piece together a throttle body. Find a complete one from a junkyard and send it to this place. http://www.throttlebodys.com/1G%20Turbo%20TBs.htm

NGK BPR6ES is what your car should be getting. Super cheap.

Have you verified the TPS as well as the closed throttle switch are working? Also, check the ISC. Beyond that, I would say a throttle body rebuild.