Thanks again. I will try the fluid and update on results.

Thanks Tim. I was reading about Motul fluid, any recommendations on it or should I stick to mt 90 again? I'm probably at 300-350whp with evo3 16g.

So I am now experiencing a 2nd to 3rd gear above 4000rpm drag when I am shift quicker than normal speed. Everything was working fine prior to this and the car has mostly sat with few start ups and quick drives maybe 5 times every two weeks.No other grinds, clutch dragging symptoms or anything...

lil corb updated WowadsmView updates to this DSM profile...

That makes more sense. could it be true that maybe changing the target a/f is needed if lets say it was targeted for 11.5:1 with a 40lb/min turbo then a 60lb/min turbo could be causing more knock due to more air and not enough fuel at the same target a/f of 11:5:1?Is it also safe to say once a...

That is true for closed loop operation. I think the biggest issue would be a maf calibration issue at target hrtz due to a bigger flowing turbo even if it's slightly bigger. So where if it was calibrated prior and his target a/f is met with the first turbo, now the maf calibration might be off...

You have to look at your short term, long term fuel trim and combined fuel trim to see how much fuel is being added or taken away as the ecu will try and shoot for 14.7 during closed loop operation no matter what.

Which 20g are you comparing the fp68 to? tdo5h, tod6 or tdo6h? The turbine wheel can definitely make difference in power vs spool.

Yes motor mount brackets are different. While installing a custom front crossmember with mount on my car ( 1g mt) I noticed it didn't fit. Looked into the Front and back brackets and the previous owner had installed auto brackets. Swapped them out for the manual ones problem fixed.

Also if you have an oil cooler that helps in not running water lines. Like me and evo 3 16g ;)

Did you drain old gas out?

Have you boost leak tested it? How is the a/f when it starts to creep? Getting richer? Could be a boost leak around injector seals or anywhere post boost gauge hook up.

Any update?

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm Looks like bad adjusted pedal. Look at Pedal Pump up.

Any update to this? I'm curious to see the cause.

I'm pretty sure that was my issue as well.

I have had it since 2010 (Blue fittings and hoses) No issues at all and Extremepsi is a great vendor.

Is that new? Back in 2010 when I overextended my QM and had Tim fix my brand new input shaft on my brand new stage 3 shep trans that would of nice to have... smh lol

Yea, I had to loosen the booster and pull towards the front of the vehicle to gain some clearance. I have pulled my trans 3 times and find it easier then the 1 time I removed the pedal assembly but re welding the pedal was well worth it.

Only reason that I can think is clearance. My Forge Bov rotates so it wasn't a big deal plus quality is great!

My ETS street kit has the BOV upside down so it's possible it installs that way. As you can see the pipe can only go one way which will make the BOV face down.

Maybe it's time to see what an actual dyno shows. It might actually make power vs. the butt dyno.

It sounds like sticky calipers then?

So you guys are renting a garage for personal use and no business at this time have enough money for rent plus utilities and to buy things for it? Maybe adding a business plan for sanity sake so you guys just don't dump life savings into it for "fun".

Makes sense now! Thanks again

On that note Justin with internal wastegated twin scrolled turbos, in each side of each scroll is there a port that by passed the turbine and flows to the wastegate opening and in that picture we are seeing the outlet of the hotside? I guess maybe a picture of the Volute/Hot side entrance area...

I don't recall having to check the diagnostic pin before setting the ISC position to 30. As a matter of fact I believe you check that pin or ground it physically when you are manually setting your idle via the BISS. If you set ECMLink to the desired target RPM you don't have to check that box to...

Is it possible to reduce the amount and still be functional and re do a pull?

Sounds like boost spike. How long are your vacuum hoses?

Jafro has a great video on Dsm 6 bolt and 7 bolt oiling system and how things work with and without balancer shafts.

It sounds like it had some settings totally off and not in the same city let alone ball park of right numbers. As long as you plug correct numbers and check correct boxes you should of been able to somewhat drive the car to fine tune more.

Have you checked for or found leaks?

I would start by warming up the car and transmission by normal driving then adjust clutch pedal to where it should be. 2-3inchs from the floor (unless you non oem setup in which the geometry is totally different like a triple disk or something or you know for sure something is off in step...

It kind of sounds like drivetrain noise? Is only by vacuum or by a certain speed as well?

That's the part I was getting at. Thanks justin.

So if I were to run a turbo big enough to flow 80lb/min and run it at 25psi and let's say peak efficiency on a map is 40psi (just an example). Now, that's not considerate "Low boost" but I would ask is a 38mm wastegate enough to bypass the exhaust to keep at it 25psi when the turbo can flow...

To finish, is this correct? Big turbine wheel, big turbine housing, high boost= large wastegate Small turbine wheel, small turbine housing, low boost = small wastegate

Very good info! It's making me think twice about a vented hood as there's more involved than just a "vent to remove air"

Welcome back Glenn and good to hear things turned toward the positive! Hang in there! :thumb:

Yes! That's what I'm thinking! Thanks

Oh no! I hope it works out, maybe it's something with the Kevlar disk. I have asked numerous people about what happened. It seems from looking at the video that my rpms hang as I shifted into 4th and from what I remember I did infact put it into 4th gear and floor it and I was not going aware...

Oh no! Any link to your post or info? I thought after all the hiccups they got it together. I had to send my disk out before too but never had any issues until now, if it is their issue and not mine.

Finally ran the car at the track and on my last run after staging for an almost 2 hrs (no hot lapping), while shifting into fourth it felt like when I disengaged the clutch the Rpms were still hanging up and as I shifted into 4th and engaged the clutch. The rpms were still high and I was hitting...

Went to MIR after ten years of working on car.First run: bogged launch a little ran a 13.2@104 with 1.8 60ft. Second run: best launch out of the two but did not finish run due to either mis shift, slipping clutch or etc. I remember putting it into fourth and hitting the gas but not going...

I use Brad Penn as it was recommended by my engine builder recommends. I have heard the same about Mobile 1 changing recently.

If you have forged internals and depending on your P2W clearance it is possible to be piston slap as the metal will expand once warm. I would at least until engine temp gets up to 170* before moving as I don't want to risk any investment I have put into it. If waiting to warm is too much, invest...

good info:applause:

excellent! good to know! thanks

Depends on the turbo cartridge (bb or journal), that turbo manufactorers recommended Oil requirements and your individual oil pressure readings. But yes, on a 1g head, that is a oem oil feed line.

Jello! I have some unopened Brand Penn 10w-40 winter oil that I purchased back in April time. I have done some research and as long as it's been unopened it should have shelf life of 2 years. Is this true? The weather is getting cooler now and it's time to do Winter oil change but can I use...