This is the Build Thread for Rare Bird (my first). Reply below.

This is the Build Thread for The Unicorn. Reply below.

Unfortunately, being a better car doesn't necessarily dictate market value when it comes to classics. Physical problems can be solved with money and/or elbow grease. The car needs high demand and a good story, and nothing is going to compel the enthusiast with money (the guys that decide what...

I'd respectfully disagree, but for this reason only... The Fast and the Furious. It's the same reason MK4 Supras, R34 (and to a lesser extent R33) Skylines and FD RX7s command astronomical prices while all earlier editions of these cars are marginalized and unappreciated in the market. It's...

Sorry about the long title. As stated, I basically have a whole 4g64T (7 bolt) stroker setup (comes with fully built engine, IC piping, IC, ECU and all the other stuff) and an AWD w4a33 trans with IPT parts. I don't want to get rid of it, but i gotta. :cry: Click the link for the compete parts...

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the idea of a much fatter torque and power curve created by the compounded turbo setup, but, just to play devil's advocate, couldn't most of this be accomplished by using the same large turbo on a higher compression engine? You'd get the NA kick (little as...

Thanks BIG time!! :thumb: Hopefully this is the only issue.

I've got a massive shorting problem in my car whenever i try to start it. I've found a gang of shorts and grounds in my Relay center/Fuse box under the hood. Does anyone have the part number for all three pieces (Cover, relay center, and bottom cover) so i can replace them? Also, does anyone...

I've heard of the corrosive properties of E85, and any alcohol fuels for that matter, but what do they do for oiling to retain any reliability??

I know this will sound odd, but i used a 4 inch vice (not bolted to anything) and some paint sticks or rubber. I clamped the shaft sandwiching the wood/rubber on the machined surfaces (not hard enough to crush anything) and gently pulled until it came out (along with a big gasp of suction)...

Thanks for the ideas, guys. So was anyone Able to come up with a schematic or wiring diagram for the ignition switch circuit?

Here's the issue. Whenever i tried before to start my car i'd either just get clicks or when the starter cranked, it was slow and the lights dimmed. Now i'm blowing ignition fuses when i try. My ignition pinouts test good. new starter and alternator. I'm thinking shorted wire on the start side...

Ok... When i attempt to start the car, i usually just get the solenoid click. Then 20% if the time the starter rotates the engine really slow making this loud obnoxious sound that resonates through the car. The last 5% of the time it rotates normally, but it's like pulling teeth to get it to...

I personally like the layout you've chosen. Most DSMers are traditionalists, let the cars speak for themselves, and like them just the way they are. But ultimately, the decision is up to you, so go with your own gut.

I'm a fan of Lincoln. Any highly popular names are pretty much sure bets. And if you learned on a certain well known brand, i'd recommend sticking with it, since you've already established a welding style with it.

Look, Man. I'm not flaming you for using Armor-all because all of us have done things just because that's what we were taught to do. I was an Armor-all guy at one time until I became a painter and learned otherwise. That's the beauty of these forums. To learn from sources we wouldn't...

The only problem with what you're doing is that TIG welding, if you're good, will leave a lot smaller or no profile than MIG on both the weld side and the penetration side. So with an intercooler pipe where you don't want obstructions, and especially in a place you can't reach in to grind it...

The main reason you see people against Armor All is the high silicone content. :nono: If you ever plan on getting your car painted, and that goes for interior dying as well, you can look forward to being turned away or being charged a premium because it ruins paint jobs and spreads like VD to...

Why don't you just run a staggered fwd setup? They make wheels that retain the same offsets, front and back, but mount to the lip at different points providing the staggered look without changing the tire sizes and offsets.Axis Wheels - Staggered wheels, Axis Super Hiro, Axis Halo Pinstriped...

scratch it, i'll just run a jumper from the starter solenoid with a 30A fuse on it's own line. Close thread.

Or if you decide that the 190 is too small later, you could throw on an inline Bosch 044 and bigger fuel line for pretty much any of your future goals, if you don't mind the noise of an external. You say you don't want big power now... but you will... :sneaky:

When it comes down too it, yes, the internals can handle 450 whp. But were they designed for that? A resounding 'NO'. You can make 450 whp, or maybe even 550+ whp on your bottom end, but your margin for error is a whole lot slimmer. All it could take is a hot day, pump gas, a heat soaked...

He's right about this one. Especially the plugs. You should pull each one of the plugs while the car is off and relatively cool, and what you see on the tip will tell you exactly what the engine is or isn't getting (air/fuel/spark) or if there's another problem altogether. If you don't have...

Uhh...:|

The real vr4 will be worth a whole lot more, I'll say that much. If i'm not mistaken, they only sent 3000 6Gs here over the course of 2 years. It's destined to be a classic. If you have the means, please resurrect the vr4 :pray: You won't regret it

I need to run a starter jumper wire from the fuse box to the starter solenoid (Automatic car). Do i use the thick white wire coming out of the 30A fuse in the fusebox? If not, which one?

Yeah, i was thinking about larger flat panels with that statement. Completely forgot he was just doing the engine bay... Rattle cans are perfect for what you're doin. And follow 15psi's advice on the spray distance. It'll even out the pattern so it's not too heavy in the middle.

You're going to have to check with the manufacturers on these, too. They probably won't work for N/Ts. Different engine, tranny, and electronics.

Your results are going to vary greatly between using a rattle can or a gun. The rattle can approach will come out like the STi you posted with the streaking from the fan pattern and all. From a gun, it will lay out a lot more even like the engine bay pic you posted, as long as the gun pressure...

I'm glad i saw this thread. Good call!

Paint your mouldings. Continuity = Clean :thumb:

You're deciding to make a 2.4 with a 4g63 block?? That's a little more expensive (at the machine shop) and labor intensive than just finding a 4g64 block and going from there, isn't it? There are clearance issues that need to be resolved as opposed to just capping off a couple of drain holes...

I wouldn't say "worthless". That's far from true. It just depends on how you design your setup. A 2.4 is going to give you a lot better off boost response (depending, of course, on compression) which is great for street driving and gives you an off boost advantage, and spool your turbo...

I run a phenolic spacer. Where you get it from probably doesn't matter as long as they're reputable and it's the exact one for your application. They're super durable as shown in this video...YouTube - GrimmSpeed Phenolic Spacer Ethanol Fire TestPlastics have always proven to crack when...

Certifit.com has the front bumper for $48, thought the 2gb is missing the eagle emblem detail. And there's one in your city. Good luck on the side skirts. If you find some and have to remove them, be VERY careful. They will crack easily. The cars are 10+ years old.

Definitely replace that front bumper. Certifit.com makes brand new 2gb front bumpers for $48. They're missing the Eagle emblem in the middle though. And you'd be hard pressed to find good OEM replacement side skirts. You might be better off getting mild bodykit sides instead (urethane, of...

How old's the tranny fluid? I'd recommend swapping it for some Redline Synthetic. It helps the tranny shift a lot smoother and can cure a lot of shifting issues. If it doesn't work then it sounds like you have a syncro problem.

According to your car info, you have a 97 N/T, which is a 420A, NOT a 4g64. :toobad: From the driver's seat looking forward, which side is the air intake on? If it's on the left = 420A, if it's on the right = you could have a 4g64 if it's been modified. If it's stock GS-T... forget it. 4g63t

There are forums that cover that topic, extensively. Just do a search.

I'm a collision guy, and i think the easiest way to take care of the door is to re-skin it especially since our doors don't have a sill that halos the glass. You might be able to do it yourself if you do some research, have an air chisel, or can get one to get the old skin off, and a hammer and...

Ahhh... I apologize. I don't know enough about the 420A to help you. Have you tried the 420A forum? I'm more than sure they'll have some answers if you just do a search.

P.S. You don't happen to have a picture of your engine bay, do you...?

You don't have a MAS? Then what are you using for air metering?? In my experience, having a bad MAS sensor can cause your idle to surge as well as a boost leak, and maybe even no recirc tube on your BOV if you don't have a fuel computer. But the real question is, what's reading your airflow...

Here are some things to try...1. Put them on, turn your wheels both ways, and rotate them to look for rubbing and brake/suspension clearance. It's not that hard...2. Find out the bolt spacing and offset from the guy you bought them from, or...3. Take them to a wheel shop and have them...

The job itself isn't hard. But you do have to have a tool to compress the valve springs. Otherwise all you'd need is that tool, a magnet, and something to pull the seal out of the head. However, i don't know how difficult it is with the head in the car.

Do a balance shaft eliminator on it. You can buy a kit, and they're pretty cheap. Try SBR

Excellent. I just hadn't seen anyone talk about doing the swap in these forums or even the IPT forums, therefore i concluded that nobody had tried it. And i just needed to know that the diffs were similar before i just start tearing into mine and buy a non returnable core from a junkyard...

I guess my decision has been made. And I'm definitely not worried about clutter with my clearcoat peeling like a leper. Darned Chrysler clearcoat!!